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Willys M170, " Sad Sack"

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by bigbendhiker, Apr 29, 2020.

  1. Jun 3, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    Thanks, I'll try that.
     
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  2. Jun 8, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    This morning my Dad and brother came over to help work on the Willys. I had been struggling with removing 8 size 4 phillips head screws that were securing the windshield frame to the body. I had used PB Blaster and heat from a torch without success. My brother had a manual impact wrench. I had never seen one before. Anyway he was able to fairly easily remove 6 of the screws. The last two I heated up pretty good and then they came out. Here's a short video showing him working on one of them after it had been heated up.



    I Googled and found some for sale at Lowe's and Northern Tool among others.
     
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  3. Jun 8, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Got those off before with the manual impact wrench and also with a "Shake N Break" tool used with an air chisel.
    I got mine from the Snap On tool man. Works great.

    Shake-N-Breakā„¢

    Surprising how well this thing works on old stuck screws.

    Dave
     
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  4. Jun 8, 2020
    givemethewillys

    givemethewillys Been here since sparky ran it. 2022 Sponsor

    New Kent, VA
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    Those work great for those darn screws.
     
  5. Jun 8, 2020
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    X2
     
  6. Jun 11, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    Back to the broken bypass fitting in the cylinder head. Success! After spending some time attempting to chisel out the old portion of the bypass fitting without much luck, I ordered a tap and die set along with some lubricant from Amazon. I ran the tap through the port to clean out the rest of the old fitting and it seemed to go smoothly. I then ran a thread chaser into the port and that went well also. Next I installed the new fitting and it fits great. Sad to say this is the first new part installed on the engine. I just keep removing stuff. The new water pump should arrive in the next few days and maybe that will go on fairly soon. I need to run a new oil line to the oil filter and check the fuel lines from the fuel pump (still to be installed) to the carburetor prior to installing the water pump.



     
  7. Jun 11, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Seems like you are forever taking stuff off.

    ..... Still waiting to get it all back together again.

    Keep at it. Looking good.

    Seem to remember someone on the G503 making Oil return lines for the F134.

    Got the fording kit lines from there.





    Dave
     
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  8. Jun 11, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    bigbendhiker and Muzikp like this.
  9. Jun 11, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    Thanks for the link. I may need to order those. In fact for the price I'll probably order them anyway. I haven't spent much time yet looking at all of the small metal oil lines, but that's on the horizon. If you or anyone else has a diagram or pictures of which lines go where that you could make available without much trouble on your part I would greatly appreciate seeing those.
     
  10. Jun 25, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    I picked up my radiator from a local guy. He ended up recoring the radiator. It looks good and according to him the new core should be about 25% more efficient than the original. It has more tubes than the original. The original core if you look at from the top has a couple of tubes then skips a space, two more tubes, skip, etc. The new core has more tubes as it doesn't skip a space between the pairs Hopefully that makes sense, I may not be using the right terminology.
    Before:

    After:

     
  11. Jun 25, 2020
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Wow, that looks good. I think it will run cool with that radiator.

    Dave
     
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  12. Jul 6, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    So today I thought I'd quickly take off the valve cover, strip the old paint, prime it, etc.

    Here's the before:

    And here's after stripping it (along with another piece)

    I've got both parts primed but no picture yet.

    So I've never done anything with valves and I was just moving the rocker arms and noticed two of them were making a little noise. They seem loose. Now I'm not too sharp when it comes to this, but willing to learn. Posted below is a video hopefully showing what I'm talking about.

    What do I need to do?
     
  13. Jul 6, 2020
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
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  14. Jul 7, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    Yes, I actually have it in print form. It seems like it's geared more towards repairs or maintenance that a serviceman might perform in the field, but I'll check in more detail.
     
  15. Jul 8, 2020
    AKjeff

    AKjeff Member

    Carson Valley, NV
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    #2 looks like it's beginning to open, so it has pressure on it. #3 and 4 look closed, both are obviously too loose.

    The FSM should walk you through valve adjustment. It's not difficult, just time consuming the first couple times while learning.

    I've never adjusted valves on an F-head but I've regularly done motorcycle and large diesel engine valves.

    Don't forget to pop the side cover and check the exhaust valves too.
     
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  16. Jul 8, 2020
    bigbendhiker

    bigbendhiker Member

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    UPS delivered this today. I hadn't heard of this company prior to member lilbuff63 posting here Buffs 58 cj5 build

    I highly recommend this company. They had a 10% off sale for the July 4th weekend that ran through Monday the 6th. I ordered on Monday, they shipped the same day and I received it before noon today. I also got free shipping and no sales tax which here is 8.25% . Total cost was $269.10. It looks well made and it's made in Alabama.

     
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