Fino's 58 Wagon

How much brake pedal do you have? When bleeding does the pedal go down quickly and all the way to the floor?

 

This has me wondering about push rod adjustment.

 

Also the bleeder has to be closed before the pedal is let up. Make sure a helper understands this.

 

I know - what are the chances of that....but we've all seen other unlikely stuff....

i've checked this so many times - its like checking plug wires from cap to plug - I've somehow probably become blind to the mis-connection. My inability to sleep at night is this...Somehow the left side is plumbed together and is working fine, and the passenger side is plumb together and the MC is not bled properly for that circuit to work....But the line that goes to the left rear only splits from the right rear at the rear axle - its pretty trivial. Although I didn't disconnect the RR line coming out of the junction block at the rear axle, thinking of do so to to see if I can get fluid squirt out of the block - there is obviously fluid going into the block if it gets out

to the left rear.

kind of like to try that...

and you can get C19 for free while your at it...

I understand no Prop valve needed either...there are removeable RPVs in the MC ports, but that should be correct for drums (as ordered from Richard at R&P). They are supposed to be removed if I go to discs at some point...even if they were wrong, they shouldn't stop fluid from going out - just backpressure and backflow when pedal is released...

Correct - but haven't had both bleeders on the passenger side open at the same time...just one or the other.

 

Talking about the key...it has a taper on one end...is it directional, or is its orientation important?

 

this is all I know to do...except I was working back from the wheel cylinders toward the MC...not so much to work the air out one section at a time, but more to see where I find fluid pressure. Might be better to do it your way.

 

having to think about this a bit...I wrote my thoughts, then deleted as I don't think i get the why. But its easy enough to try....

 

Am I reading this right? Are you saying you have a left side circuit and a right side circuit? Not front and rear?

 

No its set up a front and rear circuit - my recurring nightmare is that I somehow plumbed them as a right and left side circuit.....I've checked it 100times, and its front and rear, but as the both left sides bleed, and neither right side works - it just keeps popping into my head that I cross-up the circuit connections...Almost finished with morning teaching responsibilities - go work on it some here in a bit.

 

I feel better now. Now back to the regular scheduled troubleshooting. Does it have an adjustable push rod? If so is it adjusted to give maximum throw?

 

Some follow-up: Check MC pushrod - its adjusted correct with 1/2" of play in the pedal before moving the MC and the pedal is able to go to the floor. Tried 'bleeding' both right side cylinders at the same time - nothing....maybe an ever so slight drip or so. Tried some various ways to pump up the pressure and the open the bleed valve but nothing. There are a couple high spots in the lines where it bends over the motor mount sections that could definitely have air bubbles - possibility in the front line, but the rear line gets fluid all the way to the left rear so not an issue in that one.

Pic is of the rear circuit T-junction...rubber line comes in from MC, the split to the left goes to the driver side which is bleeding lots of fluid. So I pulled the line that goes to the right side and confirmed I am getting lots of fluid out the junction. I then cleaned out (sprayed brake cleaner) through the short section of hard line and then blew it out with air...After reconnecting the hard line to the block, confirme I was getting lots of fluid out of the hard line at the connection to the wheel cylinder. But still no fluid out of the wheel cylinder...Even if I pull out the bleed screw - nothing. I can't really examine the wheel cylinder with it on backing plate, so that is the next step - pull the wheel cylinder off and see if I can flush it out with brake fluid and air (I assume the there are internal rubber seals that would not react well to brake cleaner). Is it possible to have the wheel cylinder pistons too far in or out that they could be blocking off the bleed valve? The shoes are moving some bit when the pedal is pushed (and bleeder is closed). Even if its not the cause, starting to think I should replace the rubber hose connectors - two on the front and one on the rear - in case they are expanding internally as pressure builds....even if not, I don't want to be doing this again.