Help Wiring External Voltage Regulator

I recently purchased a 56 cj5. It has an oddfire v6, with a gm alternator and external mechanical voltage regulator. I’ve got it running pretty good, but the alternator is not charging the battery.

With the engine running, I tried bypassing the external voltage regulator by jumping the battery and field wires, and instantly the voltage jumped to 16 (at which point I quickly disconnected the jump). Tried it two more times with identical results. So the alternator seems to be working fine.

I’ve also double checked checked continuity and made sure everything is well grounded.

Before I chalk it up to a faulty voltage regulator, I want to make sure the wiring is correct. The wiring is currently done as attached. The part I crossed out in red does not exist in my Jeep (the wire from ignition, thru indicator lamp, to “4” on the voltage regulator). I could order a lamp and add that wire, but I can’t wrap my brain around why that would be necessary when there is already a wire going from acc supplying power to terminal 4 on the voltage regulator.

Does my set up look correct?

 

Voltage Regulator Wiring - Chevelle Tech
This is a good right up on how the external voltage regulator system works and how the indicator light may be your solution. Look at the 2nd post and scroll down a bit to the fourth “quote “ . Hopefully that will help answer your question. Looks like the indicator light may be necessary for triggering the regulator to charge. Good luck!

 

Also, if you have the stock speedometer there is already a red, ignition on, indicator lamp and a green run lamp, at least my 58 did. Hook #4 wire to the ignition on lamp, it will turn on with ignition and off while running unless your alternator stops charging, then it will turn on while running and let you know that the alternator isn’t working. At least this is how I understand it, again, good luck!

 

Thanks for the info. My 56 speedometer only has a high beam light and brake light (and a dead moth nestled between the temp and fuel gauges, which I have no idea how could have gotten in there). I may need to buy a small bulb just to complete my troubleshooting.

 

You may need the indicator light circuit to excite the alternator. I believe you can't just delete it ... it's ok to replace it with a resistance wire or a wire and a diode, with the stripe of the diode on the alternator side. The alternator needs this trickle of current from the ALT light at startup to bootstrap its operation. Normally the alternator uses part of the current it makes to energize its field windings, but it needs to start with something. You could test it using a plain wire, but the engine probably won't shut off then. Lift the connection to the ignition switch to stop the engine.

Which regulator are you using? If this is the original Delcotron alternator that came with the V6, the Delco regulator designed for it should work fine. Jeeps with the 225 used a Motorola alternator and Motorola electronic regulator. Pretty sure you can mix and match, if you understand their operation.

 

Don't know which ignition switch you have but not all will supply power on the acc side in the "ON" position. A test light on the #4 terminal should light up when the car is running. If not then alt will not charge.

 

My ignition switch is a reproduction from omix.

I found a small light and wired it in between ign and terminal 4. The light turns on when the key is turned left (accessory). Light also turns on when key is all the way to the right (start). Once the engine starts and the key is in the ON position, the light goes out. I believe that is the way that light is supposed to work.

but the battery is still not charging.

for what it’s worth, with the engine running, if I disconnect the wire from acc to 4 the light turns on. Which again, is how I believe it is supposed to work.

 

Yes that is the way it is supposed to work. Do you have a good ground wire from the reg base over to the alt. Don't depend on the metal fender as a good ground.

 

Oddly I just tried jumping the battery and field wires, and the alternator didn’t put out any voltage. Strange that had worked yesterday. Now I’m wondering if it’s actually the alternator that is bad, and the original “batt to field” test was a fluke.

At this point, am I better off going with an alternator with an internal regulator?

 

Yes you are better of with 10S type with internal reg and they really are cheaper in the long run.

 

Thanks everyone. I ordered a 10s and will provide an update when I get around to installing it.

 

I agree good to switch to an internal. I did that as well. Much more simpler wiring.
Do you have the 198 V6? I do. Love that little odd fire engine.

 

Honestly, I’m not sure what engine I have, and I’m having difficulty finding any casting number on the engine block. The prior owner said it was an “oddfire Buick v6.” He also gave me a bunch of old paperwork that included some smog referee stuff from the late 80’s that called it a 225.

So I’ve been assuming it was a 225, but there are certain things about it that seem to suggest it isn’t. For example, the timing marks are on the passenger side.

 

Post pics

 

I emailed the PO and he said he thought it was a 198.

Here’s a couple pics. Let me know what angles would be best to help ID this motor. Thanks.

 

You have the engine there - the site has a reference that should identify this engine https://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/BuickV6CastingNumbersandInternalSpecs.pdf

This topic has been covered many times here - site:earlyCJ5.com identifying V6 by casting number - Bing

 

I woke up early today and decided to give it a second look for a casting number. After scrubbing through about an inch of grime, I found one between the intake manifold and bell housing. I had looked there before, but saw nothing even remotely resembling a casting number. I guess I underestimated how much grime had collected there over the years.

Anyway, here’s a pic

- Bottom says 1349430, which is a 61-63 198 oddfire
- I’m not sure what the code on the top is for. It says 12 11(I think) AL

 

The above numbers are internal to GM, possibly a date code. Somebody might know something about that on one of the Buick sites.

 

Yep. i was going to tell you to look there, but i didnt get back on line in time. It seems as though they are good little motors. i like mine....so far, but parts are scarce. If you ever change it out, provided its not blown or anything, as many like 225 better, let me know i may want it as a back up for mine.

 

i cant really tell from the photos you have posted so far, but it appears your water lines are different. I wouldn't go as far to say "incorrect" but i had to fix some issues from my PO and did a lot of research. What i can see is your water lines may not be the same as what "should" be.

Also, i would appreciate a view of your alternator bracket as i the original version wont work in jeeps as the fender well is too close. Its a lower mount when they were in the Buick Specials so as of now i have a different mount. It works but doesnt look right as there is a third block hole that isnt there, so it looks a little weird. would like to figure out a different option some day. might have to fab a custom one.

Welcome again to the 198 club. We are becoming more and more of a rare breed just like the motors.