Axle Leaks But Can't Find The Right Parts And Does It Need New Bearings??

Hi all,

I need some help. I've bought a CJ5. But Im not sure how old it is. Titel says 1993 but that doesn't mean anything where I live (Dutch Caribbean) and for sure its not a '93 car. Also the chassis I think is not from '93

When I bought it it hasn't run for over a year and when I drove/towed it home it started leaking oil out of the axle/brakedrum.

As Im originally from Europe im not really at home in the US axles, stores and common technics used. Finally I can widen my knowladge but its sometimes hard as I also don't know the right keywords to look for info.

I need some help/advice figuring out what kind of axle I have and what parts I need to replace.

I think my rear axle is a tapered Dana 44 as it has a marking on the diff housing: C-32192-1, the look of the cover matches the pictures online and the wheel flange is bolted on. The diff is also offset to the right.

Do you guys agree on the tapered Dana 44?

and how do I find our what parts I need? I think it has an oil seal at the diff side and a grease seal at the brake side. Because its leaking oil I need to change both right? And how to know If I also need the bearings?

The info is probably somewhere on this forum or on the internet but I can't find it (probably because I don't have the right keywords to look with)

So to sum up who can help me with:

1. finding out which axle I have?
2. Which parts I need to replace?
3. Where to buy them?

Thanks for the help!

 

Thanks!

there’s a 6cyl in the front but its not an jeep I think. In still researching what make and model engine it is there’s no serialnumber plate in the engine bay. The tub is polyester so I think they didnt put it back at the last restourstion. The vin on the titel is from’93 but thats incorrect of course (i life on an caribbean Island so those things go a but different overhere)
Will look for the manual but everything takes almost a month to arrive overhear so I would like to purchase some parts to get it driving again so I can check the rest of the car and make a plan.

but I need to know which seals I need and if I need bearings etc too or how I can check it

thanks!

 

Mmm. Might be a Ford 144 or 170. It's not a Jeep engine, at least not a Toledo, Ohio Jeep engine.Some Australian Jeeps got the Ford 170.



Need picture of the other side, showing the intake and exhaust manifolds.

I'd expect Ford to put a number with this format somewhere on the block.

 

A ford motor is Correct if assembled on the island.
If you unscrew the grease fittings on the ends of the axle where it bells out Is the grease inside dry?

 

Has Tuxedo Park hood emblems and chrome hold downs...

 

Looks like a late 60s/early 70s Ford 200. I guess it was a somewhat popular swap back in the day because they are pretty short for a 6 cylinder.

 

Whats up with the vise-grip and all the tie-wraps on the rear axle tube? That looks like a fuel tank behind/above the rear axle?. You've got a lot of non-original components that make up your Jeep. Yes, your rear axle appears to be a mid-1960's Dana 44. 10" brakes would be correct from about 1964 -up for a Tuxedo Park, if you hood emblem is original to that CJ5.
-Donny

 

If you do a Google search for "cj5 service manual" one of the first results is a free PDF copy of a Jeep service manual that covers your axle among many other things. I find it useful when working on mine.

 

Thanks!! I wil try to make one later today. Also good to see the place where I maybe an find the number.

 

Thanks all.

The visegrip is to blok the brake line because it rusted through and I needed the Jeep to get to my house to start working on it. Now we had at least some brakes during the towing

During the NYE party and I run into the owner who originally brought the Jeep to the Island. He also had somebody changes a few things. It indeed was a Tuxedo park and he said it is from 1966. He also put in the Ford motor but he didn't remembers which one it is. He also installed the Poly tub as the car was in bad shape when he bought it. He said when he gave it to the former owner 2 years ago it was running good but they didn't use it much.

Thanks for the advice and helping.

Anyone know how I can test if the bearings are still good? or do you always need to replace them when changing the seals of a tapered dana 44?

 

Without a total disassembly, you can't really judge the bearings' condition. Why are you focused on bearings? If i thought that the axle was leaking, I would replace the seals. Bearings will be noisy if they are damaged.

 

Only if damaged severe enough. I’ve had plenty of bearings not be noisy and fall apart in my hands. Unless the vehicle sat for a long period of time allowing the seals to get hard so they don’t seal properly, typically seal failure is caused by excessive play in the bearings allowing the shaft to move around radially too much damaging the seal. Or the shaft surface itself is worn.

 

Happy new year!

No numbers on the same location as your foto but I found a number on the exhaust manifold C1DE 9430 B

Also see the picture of the otherwise. I count 3 freesecaps does that help?

 

Thanks, I thought the seals will leak when the bearings are shot but because it has been standing a long time I think thats the problem. I can't feel any play in the axle so the bearings are fine I think. I ordered the inner and outer seals. Will arrive in 2 or 3 weeks (Island life). Will change them and see what happens. Doubting if I want to do the inners but as they are made to keep the oil in the diff and the outers are for the grease I think I should do both to be sure.

Will keep you posted about the progress.

Thanks all for the tips and advice and if you have more please keep them coming But the advice and shared websites helped a lot!

 

According to Wikipedia, it's a 4-main-bearing 144 or 170 or 200. That integral (ie not removable) intake manifold is characteristic of these Ford engines. Pretty sure most of the 200s have 7 main bearings and 5 "freeze" plugs, so unlikley it's a 200 (I hate that term "freeze," since they are there to get the casting sand in the water passages out of the block at the time it is made. A better name is "core plug" since the sand formed to make the internal passages is called the core of the block. That the plugs pop out if the cooling water freezes is just coincidental.)

I'm no expert on these engines. You might try one of the Ford Falcon or Mustang forums and ask about how to ID this engine. I looked online and found this article that may help you - Small Six Identification | Fordsix Performance Tech Articles

 

Agreed. With 3 soft plugs, it's most likely a 144 or 170. Doesn't make much power or torque, but they are a pretty reliable engine.