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Did I Install My Clutch Disk Backwards?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by tomasinator, Sep 19, 2019.

  1. Sep 19, 2019
    tomasinator

    tomasinator Member

    Redmond, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2015
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    Here are a few of photos of when I installed the clutch in my '68 jeep project. The new clutch came in a box along with the parts to the rest of the jeep.

    Bronze clutch thrust bearing:
    [​IMG]

    Resurfaced flywheel installed:
    [​IMG]

    Clutch kit I used:
    [​IMG]

    Clutch disc installed. Is it backwards?
    [​IMG]

    Pressure plate:
    [​IMG]

    Throwout bearing and clutch arm:
    [​IMG]

    Now that the rest of the jeep is put together, I'm ready to take it on a test drive. I installed a hydraulic slave clutch lever. When I start the jeep and press in the clutch, I can't put it in gear. The gears just grind. If I adjust the preload on the clutch pedal to apply a lot of pressure on the clutch's master cylinder, stepping on the clutch pedal will move the clutch arm fully until it contacts the bell housing.

    Here's what the clutch slave and arm looks like when there's no foot pressure on the clutch pedal:
    [​IMG]

    Here's the slave/arm when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. The arm seems like is limited by any more movement by hitting the bell housing.
    [​IMG]

    If I chock the wheels of the jeep, shift to first gear, push in the clutch, then start the engine, the starter will try to roll the jeep forward, but the engine will start. There's a screeching coming from the clutch. Letting out the clutch will apply power to the rear wheels. Why won't my clutch fully release with the arm pegged to the max? Did I install the disc backwards?
     
  2. Sep 19, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Looks correct to me. The raised part with the springs goes into the pressure plate.
     
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  3. Sep 20, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Springs toward the trans.... looks good.
     
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  4. Sep 20, 2019
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    Personally, I think the clutch disc may be in backwards. As Doug says, " The raised part with the springs goes into the pressure plate". For me, the picture of the clutch disc does not give enough depth perception to determine if that is raised side. Need a side view of the disc. Also, the springs can be viewed from either side of the disc.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2019
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  5. Sep 20, 2019
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    Nice Log Jack stand, I had one like that, went into the wood burner after I was done with the clutch, I re-purposed it. Looks right to me, flat side to flywheel.
     
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  6. Sep 20, 2019
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    I used a Brute power clutch kit #90104. It was 85 bucks in 2012 and its for a 1970 Chevelle with a 307 as I have an SM420. As I recall, I tried to put the driven disk in wrong to see if I could do it and its just not possible because the springs would hit the flywheel.

    My pilot bushing was too tight the first go around. So, I got the right one..My T/O bearing was wrong, so I found a listing of stock chevy ones and picked the one that I needed.

    But I had a similar problem.

    The friction disk hub was too thick. It would not allow the friction disk to release fully as the end of the splines of the input gear and the hub interfered. The thickness of the flywheel is thicker than spec for this disk and it pushed the friction disk hub farther back onto the input shaft and made and did not allow the friction disk to spin. It always had pressure on it.

    I had no screeching, but the clutch would not engage. I took a crank strap and cranked the release arm as far back as it would go and still it would not release.

    I pulled the transmission for the 5th time in 2 days and cut the friction disk hub down on my lathe. Problem solved.

    There are others who have had issues related to the greater thickness of the dauntless flywheel and 4 speed transmissions. This may or may not be your issue.
     
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  7. Sep 20, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Sometimes a new clutch will drag until it breaks in, make the gears hard to shift at first.

    Can you start the engine with the transmission in gear, clutch pedal down?
     
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  8. Sep 20, 2019
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    looks correct
    [​IMG]

    it seems there is a problem with new clutch plates . might need to go back in and use a adjustable pivot ball on clutch fork
    question . doing this by hand how far will clutch fork move in opening before it touches fingers
     
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  9. Sep 20, 2019
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    It looks correct to me, here is a picture of mine as a comparison. This is a Luk clutch. I purposely tried to put it in backwards and there was no way it would fit in backwards.


    [​IMG]

    Be aware It is possible to get the fork in wrong.
    [​IMG]

    I used a longer ball stud when I installed mine.
    [​IMG]

    Before with factory stud & after with longer stud.
    Factory stud
    [​IMG]

    Longer stud
    [​IMG]

    As previously mentioned the pilot bushing may be tight on the input shaft and / or the hub of the clutch disc may not be the correct length.
    Oz
     
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  10. Sep 20, 2019
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    Forgot to ask...did you compare the new throughout bearing dimensions with the old one prior to installation?
     
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  11. Sep 20, 2019
    tomasinator

    tomasinator Member

    Redmond, WA
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    To answer some of the questions...

    I did test fit the pilot bushing on the end of the input shaft before installing it.

    I'm pretty sure I compared the old throw-out bearing with the new one. Embarrassingly, this was two years ago. It's taken me that long to patch all the rust on the tub, install it, wire the jeep, and in a state where I'm ready to take the jeep on a test drive. I'm pretty sure I have the original throw-out bearing so when I get to the point of pulling the transmission off, I'll compare them.

    I can start the engine in gear with the clutch pedal pushed. I have the wheels chocked and engaging the starter tries to move the jeep forward, but the engine will start. While running, there's a screeching from the clutch. ITLKSEZ's sage advice is to take it apart and look for the new shiny rubbing marks. That'll be my problem o_O
     
  12. Sep 20, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Depending on the nature and severity of the screeching, I might try and let it run for a while and see if it settles in. After two years idle, it may be rust on the flywheel face, rodents, swelling of the friction facing, or....etc.
     
  13. Sep 20, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Since you have a problem with the arm bottoming out why don't you start with focusing on that?
     
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  14. Sep 20, 2019
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

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    As mention numerous times, the disc looks to be oriented correctly. What is concerning is your first picture. The crankshaft snout has been brush painted. I sure hope you scraped all the paint off the flange with a razor blade before you mounted the flywheel. That has to be a clean, paint free surface, both on the crank and the flywheel.
    Your clutch issue is likely mis-matched parts (ball stud, slave bore size, T/O bearing retainer, T/O arm, etc). You have several non-stock parts in the mix that don't play well together.
    -Donny
     
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  15. Sep 20, 2019
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    I got out to the shop and dug up an old Luk clutch set for measurements.
    [​IMG]

    Here is a used throwout bearing.
    [​IMG]

    The clutch hub is about one inch.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the clutch fork.
    [​IMG]

    Here is the longer ball stud I used
    [​IMG]

    As Donny pointed out...the crank hub as well as the flywheel mounting surface should be clean of paint and debris .

    Hope this helps you.
    Oz
     
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