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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. Sep 17, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    The valve is either OEM or the same type. Looks just like mine. Mine leaks the same way yours does. I think Walck's has them.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  2. Sep 17, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Yes, one goes to the air control. Does the blower motor work?
     
  3. Sep 17, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    If you haven't tried it yet air control knob is also the blower switch....2 speeds.
     
  4. Sep 17, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Maybe I'll see if I can find a proper replacement heater valve from Walcks or KW. Yes the blower fan works - but only one speed iirc (just like my cj - missing a resistor or something for the slow speed so always get high speed in either position). Sorry - i have spent all my time under the hood and not in the cab yet so trying to recall this from memory - but there are 3 control knobs I think: one pull cable for the heater valve that is closest to driver, one pull cable for temperature (flapper in the heater core box) that is center, and one knob farthest passenger for the defroster/floor vent that also controls the fan speed?

    FWIW - I find the headlight switch on the far side of the central gauge cluster a bit odd as its not close to the driver. I also have the choke pull cable driver side of the speedo cluster, but its not connected to anything as the quadrajet carb has the thermal auto choke feature. PO retrofitted a small 3 gauge cluster (amps, temp, oil pressure) on dash to the left of the steering wheel, so the temp guage on the speedo is not connected (and probably doesn't work), the fuel gauge does not work, the amp light is not connected. I have a lot of wiring to figure out at some point....I like how I got the cj set-up with a 10si alternator, volt gauge, functional amp light on the speedo and 2 fuse boxes: one that is always hot, and one that is key activated. Vacuum wipers don't work - haven't even begun looking at that so we'll see - my impression is they can be a PITA and am not against an electric wiper conversion if needed.

    Anyway - next up is to pull the distributor and check that out. I know the vac advance can is not working - can suck air right through it and its not affecting timing the at all. The mechanical advance is operational. Not sure what is going on under the cap - points or maybe its already converted to pertronix. Its kind of a PITA to access the rear placed sbc distributor up against the firewall with a hood that doesn't lay all the way back against the windshield. Considering just removing the hood if I can get a second set of hands to carry it aside. Once I get the distributor set-up, then I can go back and take care of any issues with the carb. Side projects will include mounting the front seat belts (have to drill the 2 holes) as well as building a fan shroud. And then maybe its time to drive it for a bit....
     
  5. Sep 17, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I've got the 2 speed motor conversion....even I believe in at least upgrading them. :)
     
  6. Sep 17, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Temp. for the water valve, air for the flapper and fan, defroster for defrost/floor vent.
     
  7. Sep 17, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Glenn likes this.
  8. Sep 17, 2019
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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  9. Sep 21, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Got the outside seat belt mounts done today - thanks for the measurements on yours Glenn, I put it pretty close to where you measured. I put it just a bit over 3 inch back (rearward) from the vertical riser with the VIN tag, and I am pretty close to about 55" apart between driver and passenger - which puts it about 5" in from outside edge of the body (marked and drilled from the underside - but that is about 2" in from the inside edge of the body. I didn't get a pic of the underside, but I used the large (3" or so) diameter fender washers that were on the rear seat belt mount from the CJ. I kept the inside mounts on the seat mount on the slider track for now...I don't have any need for 3 seat belts on the front row.

    Driver side, looking down from the seat back...top of pic is toward the rear seat.
    [​IMG]

    A little better perspective on mount location...this is looking past the outside edge of the driver seat towards the rear.
    [​IMG]

    Allright, after grading 25 physics lab reports, taking care of a RTOC scholarship recommendation, tire rotation and balance, oil change, brake pad replacement on the Tacoma (146k on a single set of pads!) and seat belt mount on the Willys....I am ready for a beer and to grill some steaks and maybe watch just a bit of college football....
     
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  10. Sep 22, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Looks good!
     
  11. Sep 26, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Arrghhh...buyers regret frustration right now. Duffer got me a nice accell solid state (breakerless) distributor to replace the old one....but its about 1/2" too long to install in the homemade firewall notch. I am trying to enlarge the notch but having no success. Probably need some different tool than I have but also have clearance issue with vacuum wiper set-up. The wiring on the dash side is way worse than the cj5 when I got it. Almost nothing works and nothing is connected. The engine swap is the something I was very excited about, but its crushing me right now. Think I got more project than I want.
     
  12. Sep 26, 2019
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    When I get frustrated I remind myself that this is a hobby and I do it for fun. I often walk away and come back to it later.
     
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  13. Sep 26, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Hang in there, you'll get it done. I've been on the frustrated side so I know exactly how you feel.
     
  14. Sep 26, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    What kind of tool are you trying to use?
     
  15. Sep 26, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Hope this works....I ground off the rivets and cut the notch higher using my dremel with some tiny cutting disks. I couldn't fit anything bigger in the area like an angle grinder or my smaller pneumatic cutting tool. Cutting the sheet metal with such a small tool is not recommended.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Sep 26, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Do you have the vacuum motor for the wipers?
     
  17. Sep 26, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Sometimes it's best just to walk away for awhile....a day or two will give you a fresh perspective.
     
  18. Sep 26, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    yes...it has to be removed to get the distributor in and out...even the PO's distributor wouldn't come out with it there.
     
  19. Sep 27, 2019
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    That's what I figured, definitely looks that way.
     
  20. Oct 18, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    So still recovering from Moab trip and trying to get some more work done on the Willys....I have some work to do to get the oil pan back on - there are two bolts that are broken off in the block. And since I have the pan pulled, it seems like a good time to swap out to a spin on oil cartridge filter adapter....Before I get too far into the project I wanted to make sure I understand what I have here - is this the bypass valve that is above the oil oil canister?
    [​IMG]

    The adapter I have should mount to this using the square circle gasket and two mounting bolts...anyone know what the thread on those bolts should be? The adapter kit came with 1/4"-20 bolts, but they don't want to easily thread in...I would guess the threads are just filled with gunk and just need to be chased, but I just want to make sure I am chasing them with the correct tap since i can really see the threads above the bypass valve.

    EDIT - all seems good with the oil bypass and adapter...I was able to run a 1/4-20 tap up through the bypass and clean up the threads and everything should go together fine. Now its time to get the broken bolts out tomorrow - hopefully....
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2019
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