Solex Carb Theory, Tuning

I just finished verifying TDC, distributor rotor clocking, and points just starting to break @ near TDC. Motor will idle roughly down to about 1250, but no lower. Timing is around 10degrees - assuming I read the top side of the pointer. I have my dad's '63 CJ6 available and could pull the Carter carb off of it to try on this one. I cannot rule out bad gas, bad condenser, or bad coil. At least I have parts to swap.

 

Or bad carb... idle circuit f'ed up?

 

What started out as a carb thread circles back to carb issues on Page 2? Who'd-a thunk it?

 

Not possible to diagnose or tune a carb until the ignition is within spec.

 

From the web:

Trouble Starting
If the condenser has been failing for a while, the contact points could be damaged from excessive sparking and it can become more difficult to get the car started and it won't run as smoothly. It may run smoother when the engine timing is advanced but will stutter when the timing is slowed down. While there are a number of different issues that could cause trouble starting the engine, when this happens in conjunction with the radio static and the engine sparking, the condenser likely needs to be replaced.

3. Engine runs rough
A failing points and condenser system can cause rough running, misfires, lean and rich conditions. If the engine is difficult to start, and runs rough once it does start, then it is time to contact a mechanic to have a look at the system and find out exactly what the problem is. It is better to have it replaced now than when you are in an emergency situation and your vehicle will not start.

 

Or a vac leak?

 

Hello GTS Dean, welcome. I don't want to interfere in technical disucssion, but I had some problems with the engine long ago. I have a Solex carb. Cleaning the carb, accelerator pump, changing plugs, at the end turning the screms on the carb and then all was in order.
Now, summer or winter, my Jeep works perfectly. Until tomorrow maybe, but I had years of great satisfaction. It is a small gentle Hurrica 4 cylinders, and I am happy with it. So keep faith, go to basic and it will work.

 

Mark on pulley needs verified ?
Then I suggest trying a different carb, believe he said had access to one.
Never did read where he did the wd40 vac leak test?
I'm sure several feel, (I wish I had it in front of me).
Might be time to start from scratch?

 

Board Mods and their little magic wands. Never trust them!

j/k!

 

Wednesday evening report:
New condenser, new wires. No difference. I pulled spark plug wires while the timing light tach was hooked up. 1, 2 and 4 will come close to killing the engine when disconnected with the motor turning 1600 rpm. #3 cuts rpm by about 40-50. Spark is getting to the cylinder. Has to be pushrod, rocker arm or lifter adjustment. The hot cranking pressures are too close for a burnt or bent valve to be the cause. Fortunately, I have gaskets for both the adjuster covers.

 

Glad to hear, it #3 causing the problem, u say it's getting fire,is it good blue fire?
Hope u find a tight valve clearence, easy to fix.