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Repairing Heater Core

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by FinoCJ, Feb 23, 2019.

  1. Feb 23, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Ok - finally found time to pull my oem heater core. I run a 2nd auxiliary heater core in the cab, so I just bypassed this one for the time being to get things back on the road. So, how do I go about fixing this thing?
    I've never pulled one apart beyond this point - so it looks like I need to pop the end caps off to separate the tubing on the inside from the fins on the outside? Is there an easy way to do this?

    Also, how can I check for where the leaks are (pressure test) without any special tools? It looks like it might have had some repair work on one of the outlet nipples....If I had a local shop that could test it and fix it up I'd be okay with that, but not sure where around here anyone does that anymore and thinking I can probably getting done myself. And not sure if you can find exact aftermarket replacement...but will take a look.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. Feb 23, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Rubber stoppers, bicycle pump. Just enough pressure so you can see a bubble stream when you dunk it in water.

    What kind of torch do you have? What I've seen at radiator shops, they use an air-acetylene torch. I suspect a butane torch won't be enough to separate the ends.

    What is the core out of? Maybe a junkyard core would be a more practical route?
     
  3. Feb 23, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Its from my 70cj5...good idea on bicycle pump. I only have butane and MAP gas torch...
     
  4. Feb 23, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    I would NOT do that. A radiator shop would perhaps but don't try it at home.

    Locate the leaks precisely. If they are not accessible, it is permissible to destroy a few fins, or even cut and "dead-end" a tube or two if necessary to get working room or isolate a leak.

    From there it is just soldering skills, especially extreme preparation cleaning. I use muriatic acid, as well as dremel tools. Then good heat management while soldering. Sometimes I'll have a torch in one hand for pre-heating, and a powerful electric solder gun in the other for precision touches.

    Often I've found it quite easy and very worthwhile to repair a core. The older cores are substantial enough to work on and to last a long time.

    I learned a lot from reading 1920's "Dykes" shop manuals on radiator repair. Those guys would do almost anything.
     
  5. Feb 23, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    It almost looks as if one of the large inlet/outlet tubes has been worked on before. Maybe your leak is there, if you are lucky.
     
  6. Feb 23, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Maybe I am just an idiot....I rigged up some hoses to the core and submerged it in a bucket of warm water and put about 5-7psi pressure in it...no air bubbles anywhere. Maybe it was one of the hose connections leaking at the nipple and the coolant was dripping down the nipple and into the housing and puddling in the bottom before dripping out the back corner and down the firewall?
     
  7. Feb 23, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Possible.
     
  8. Feb 23, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Try hotter water just to be sure while its out. With heat things expand.
     
  9. Feb 23, 2019
    3b a runnin

    3b a runnin Active Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    virginia
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    Take a bicycle inner tube and cut in the middle. Clamp each end to inlet/ outlet. Use the valve to inflate to 15psi or so. You will find the leak.
     
    dane71, FinoCJ and Bowbender like this.
  10. Feb 23, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    I pressure tested as best I could...found nothing...so put it back together nice and clean. Fixed up the hose connections with new clamps etc. If it continues to leak I will try to replace with aftermarket....think I found an option or two for $50 or so.
     
  11. Feb 24, 2019
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    Cap off one end and fill it with water then use a air compressor with a blower nozzle and pressure test it. I did this on a Tropic Aire heater core, M38A1 radiator and a radiator for a 1946 Chevrolet truck and it worked great.
     
  12. Feb 24, 2019
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    I suspect any aftermarket core will be far less durable than an OEM.
     
  13. Feb 24, 2019
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    When I went thru this, the aftermarket did not fit. Trust me, I got one sitting on a shelf. My core was too far gone, so I just had them recore it. Cost almost $100 but it fits in the original with the proper nipples. One of my nipples is at 90* on my 58.
     
  14. Mar 8, 2019
    wasillashack

    wasillashack Member

    Wasilla, Alaska
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    Difficult to find any place that sells heater or radiator cores, at least I haven't found them. Please post if you need and find a source. My pressure testers consist of 2 bicycle inner tubes , like 3ba runnin suggests, one "English race" style for heater cores, and one regular tube for radiators. Total investment about $7. Good Luck!
     
  15. Mar 8, 2019
    jeep peep69

    jeep peep69 Member

    redding ca.
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    These people are highly recommended by me I have no stake in the game other than being a satisfied customer many times. Screenshot_20190308-163343.jpg
     
  16. Mar 11, 2019
    MtWayne

    MtWayne New Member

    Darby, Mt.
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    I just put a new core in mine this week, purchased at Oreillys auto parts. Part number#94478 (Murray Heater core), $40.00. IT worked just fine, I had to adjust the holding brackets around the core but no problem to do this and also adjust the outlet holes of air box just a bit. . Pretty much same all round measurements.
     
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