Questions On Redesigned / Upgraded Clutch Linkage

I can't take credit for coming up with any of these ideas myself, as they were inspired by several conversations with Tim E on this forum, as well as by this post on the Kaiser Willys site: Willys Parts Ingenuity :: Kaiser Willys Jeep Blog. Metalshaper on Youtube also shows a similar but much more involved modification here:



Using the above concepts as a basis, I replaced the original cotter-pinned, loose-tolerance, high-friction clutch linkage with rod ends (a.k.a. Heim joints) secured with jam nuts on a threaded rod. The rod ends I used are RBC model HFX5G with Zerk fittings (here they are on Amazon - RBC Heim Bearings HFX5G 0.3125" Bore, .3125-24 Threads Extra Capacity, Female Rod End Bearing, 4 Piece Metal-To-Metal With Grease Fitting: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific - but I found them for a lot less on eBay). In addition, rubber seals and small stainless washers were used to help keep grit out. These assemblies were bolted to the lever arms using high-strength bolts, jam, and lock nuts. The same hardware was used to replace the original yoke and clevis pin at the bellcrank end of the clutch cable. The clutch bellcrank had already been recently replaced.




After having the original bronze brake arm re-bushed by Mcruff (see Strange Brake Arm?), I used a combination of one-piece stainless shaft collars, bronze bushings, and stainless washers to replace the original cotter-pinned setup on the clutch-brake cross shaft. The cross shaft was also replaced with an NOS one.




The jeep is currently waiting to be put back together, so I can't give it a test-drive yet, but I can already say that the resulting overall assembly definitely works much more smoothly and with far less play than the original setup did (in fact, there's almost no play in the linkage as it's adjusted now). Hopefully I'll be able to road test it within another few weeks.

The questions I have are in regard to the clutch release lever where the ball at the end of the clutch cable hooks into it.

There's a small hole at the end of that lever, and I'm wondering if there may have originally been a spring attached through that hole that took the play out of its movement. Is that the case, and if so, where (and to what) was the other end of the spring attached?

Also, about how much play, if any, would it be advisable to leave at the end of the cable?

 

You are correct, there is a spring that hooks in that hole and goes to a simple flat bracket bolted to the flywheel cover. I'll see if I have a pic.

 

Thanks very much.....it would be great to have a photo, as I'll need to replicate that bracket and find an appropriate spring.

 

Very nice Maury, looks great. I would love to have one of those brass brake arms, even though you can't see it unless you are under the Jeep.

 

Let me know if you can't get a picture. I will if you want me to.

 

I wondered about that also. Even have a spring that would work. Problem is the boot is very much in the way of the spring operating correctly.

 

It is a flat tab with a hole in it. Very simple. I got my replacement spring at the hardware store.

 

Thanks so much for the photo, Bowbender - that explains it very well!

 

Interesting, this diagram from the 1966 Parts List book doesn't show the spring Bowbender's CJ has.

Wonder if maybe the spring and its mounting tab were added sometime later?

 

It's possible it was added, but I think not. Most everything appeared pretty unmolested when I got it.

 

Actually I meant maybe Kaiser Jeep added it to the CJ clutch linkage later in production, post-1966.

My CJ5 is a very early 1967 that was built in August of '66. It too was largely original when I got it, but it's certainly possible mine was built with a clutch fork return spring and tab like yours which were later removed.

 

Sure enough, the 1971 Parts List book has another diagram for pre- clutch cable V6 CJs that shows the spring and tab (called a "clip" here) that Bowbender's Jeep has:

 

Getting ready to fix the slop in my pedals. I will check about sending them to Mcruff
and I will study this.
This looks like a nice setup. I will be interested in this mod as I get time to work on mine
again.


Dave

 

I did the heim joint swap because my bell crank and linkage rod were so worn. Much better clutch control.biggest issue I had was finding fine pitch all thread for the heim joints I bought.
My 60 f134 had the internal return spring and a spring on the pedal arm.

 

I did the same upgrade to my cj6. McMaster Carr has the rod ends and such.McMaster-Carr

 

A little late, but for your rods between Heim joints you could always get some Cold roll steel rod cut to appropriate length and run 1/4” - 28 or 5/16” - 24 die over the ends. Just a tip for anyone reading this that might want to mod theirs.
Mark

 

Here's my clutch fork return spring installation, based on yours and the '71 parts list drawing....thanks again for the photo!:



The only issue I had with this was that the rubber boot got in the way too much. I finally just decided not to use the boot, as the return spring is more important to how the Jeep drives. I rarely take it off road, and even more rarely drive it in the mud or snow, so its unlikely much of either would find its way up into the clutch fork opening in the bell housing.

 

That is exactly my issue. How to get the spring to work with the boot in place?

 

Use a pre bent piece of wire(or steel rod), through boot, then a shorter spring.
Gotta be off road ready!

 

Mine seems to be working, the spring mashes into the boot a little bit, but not enough to be a problem that I can see. The boot took a little bit of work to get into place.