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Engine De - Greaser

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by polardaddy, Aug 7, 2006.

  1. Aug 7, 2006
    polardaddy

    polardaddy New Member

    Olympia,WA
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2006
    Messages:
    13
    Hi All,

    Got a question kind of related to the valve cover re-do.
    What works well on 20-30 years of oil and (madras Oregon) desert sand on it? I was using a puddy knife, flat head screw driver and a wire brush.
    I was curious on which carb I have on top of the intake, I took a brass wire brush and went to town, after about 4.5 hours I have a cleaner top half of the engine (who knew my oil filter container is/was orange? I did not) But down deep and towards the tranny, good god it is not pretty.

    And on a side note once this is up and running the seats will need to be addressed. Any ideas except JCWhitney? or ebay? If I had a 72 or newer I'd have numerous options, but with a 57 I am vitrually screwed. I do have the original frames and was talking with my father, we do think we can re-do them ourselves except no one makes low back seat covers that I can find. thanks for any advice.


    these are pics of before cleaning, once I get another chance for pics I will post updates.

    http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k189/polardaddy/b3366548.jpg
    http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k189/polardaddy/a96bce43.jpg
     
  2. Aug 7, 2006
    toolbox

    toolbox If you get bored, I've got the projects.

    Hamilton, Montana
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2006
    Messages:
    347

    I've also scraped a lot of solid crud with screwdrivers and putty knives. If you really want to get that engine clean, rent borrow or steal a Hotsy (steam cleaner). You hook up a hose for water (some also need an air compressor hooked up) and they use a diesel or kerosene burner that heats the water than runs through it. They have a wand like a car wash, and shoot very hot water at high pressure. It's amazing how fast thoes things will blast away everything on there. Have to careful though...they'll blast through your wire harness and hoses if you're not paying attention. If you can't get ahold of a steam cleaner, there are other things you can use. A wire wheel chucked in a drill makes a big mess but does remove the chunky stuff pretty well. You can get small ones that fit pretty tight places. Wear your coveralls and goggles. Seems like thoes spray on engine degreasers are pretty worthless. At least if the car has more than 2000 miles on it. Any metal (steel) parts that are removed from the Jeep can be put in a hot tank for cleaning. I built my own hot tank years ago, but I'd recomend just taking it to any engine machine shop...they don't usually charge much and the parts come out clean enough to eat off of.
     
  3. Aug 7, 2006
    runnamuck

    runnamuck look out!

    hickory, nc
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2005
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    223
    bathing suit (birthday suit not recomended), googles, gloves, hotsy w/ simple green degreaser. if you can't get a hosty a normal pressure washer will work. as far as the nucks and crannies, you will have to disassemble.

    seats. you want stock appearing or not?
     
  4. Aug 8, 2006
    polardaddy

    polardaddy New Member

    Olympia,WA
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2006
    Messages:
    13
    seats. you want stock appearing or not?[/QUOTE]


    the seats I would like to keep them stock looking.
     
  5. Aug 8, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2005
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    I'm assuming you have the seats that are a one-piece frame with springs attached to it for the seat and back cushions? On the drivers seat, one foot bolts into the doorway, and there's two more feet with three holes in each foot? Fourth leg is a stubby little post thingy?

    Try Beachwood Canvas for the seat covers, ask for Rich. He's told me on the phone that they have recovering kits for that style seat, those are the same seats I have and I plan to get the kits from them and have an auto upholstery shop put them on. They're not cheap though, and they're not listed in the catalog. But, those style seats are getting harder and harder to find, and climbing in price everyday. I just looked at a '56 with them in it, but he's trying to sell the whole Jeep right now. He might part it out later. Those seats were in decent shape. I'm sure shipping would be awful.
     
  6. Dec 13, 2018
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Wondering if the answer to this question has changed in 12 years, or if the Gurus in here have any advice for me now that I am facing the same issue.

    I pulled my engine and got it on a stand, and so far for a few days after work, went at the block with toothbrushes, nylon wire wheels, scotchbrite pads, and several cans of Gunk #1 and boxes and boxes of rags. It still has grease that is so thikn a screwdriver is needed to scrape it off, and on the "clean" surfaces they are still greasy.

    Other than the Oven Cleaner option, I'm starting to get convinced that 40+ years of grease is such that my only route is going to be to tear the engine completely apart and get it cleaned professionally. I'm also at 6,000ft, it's 10 degrees out at night, my garage isn't heated, and thus I can't really use steam/water/water based anything for fear of freezing temps when I have those long periods of time that we all hate when I can't work on her.

    Love to hear some advice from those that have gone through this before me.
     
  7. Dec 13, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    Dec 25, 2016
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    534
    Oven Cleaner is tops for the economy option. It's amazing how good it works. I agitate it a bit with a parts cleaning brush and rinse it with water then dry with a heat gun.

    Go for cheapest you can find (generic brands) because Easy Off® is expensive.
    The Gunk engine degreasers and the "non toxic" orange citrus types--all useless.

    Other than that, the guys that rebuild the Dana 18 and the transmission, they sand blast all the gunk off--but they usually disassemble the whole thing. The baked-on dirt and grease combination is pretty tenacious, no doubt.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2018
    Siskiwit likes this.
  8. Dec 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Oct 10, 2015
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    My tranny guy has it pulled and I got the tranny cross member along with the skid plate to clean up. It was 60 years of grease, dirt, grass, twigs, etc, all baked on. Forget the degreasers. You'd have to go thru cases and cases before you got it all off. I ended up scrapping and scrapping. Then put them thru my media blaster and after an hour, I called it good enough. But there is still some. If you are going to have engine rebuilt, just let them vat the parts, as mentioned above. But if your not going to go thru the engine, just start scrapping and trying the oven cleaner. At some point you will call it good enough.
     
  9. Dec 13, 2018
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    First suggestion is stop using Gunk...its useless. For non commercial, buy at FLAPS degreaser, I like SuperClean in the purple bottle. Lots of brushes...stay at it. Some heat can help as well.
     
    Hellion likes this.
  10. Dec 13, 2018
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    I like these....

    Simple Green
    Purple Power
    Oven cleaner from the dollar store
     
  11. Dec 13, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    One more thing. Regular oven cleaner will take off the grease...

    Heavy Duty takes off the paint too (in my experience).
     
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2018
  12. Dec 13, 2018
    NCRenII

    NCRenII yellow fever

    Far Nor Cal
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    I've had good luck spraying with wd40 or mopar mp-50 repeatedly and let sit. Mineral spirits also works.
    I then go to simple green as is bio safe and not haz mat like purple power. It's also better on rubber and electrical.
    Spray off with water and then spot clean with nylon brush or tooth brushes
    Spray all electrical with wd, and follow up with de-oxit.
    Doing thus most paint is retained, including hidden writing and inspection paint dabs.
     
  13. Dec 13, 2018
    Bowbender

    Bowbender I'm workin' on it!

    Northern Minn.
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    I scraped the big chunks off, then paint thinner/mineral spirits in a spray bottle, spray a little, scrape/wire brush, wipe off with rags. Repeat as needed. DO NOT leave your rags laying around! SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION is a very real possibility. I burn mine in my woodstove in my shop. A sealed metal container OUTSIDE your shop would be another option.
     
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  14. Dec 14, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    I always have used Original Gunk, I spray it into a manual pump spray bottle, and spray in on a warm motor if possible, let it set for a while rinse it off, do it again, works for me. I have used Gunk since the 60's, on my Motorcycles, Cars and gardening equipment. Harley Davidson even sold Harley Gunk at one time, it smelled just like regular Gunk. Gunk Carb Cleaner will eat your skin off ware protection on your hands when doing carbs.
     
  15. Dec 14, 2018
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    I think oven cleaner is pretty hard on rubber and plastic (wiring harness). Engine degreaser might not wirk fast but it's made to not ruin other underhood components.

    I suspect the Gunk formula has been revised over the years. Used to buy it by the gallon jug, mix with kerosene, amd it worked well, albiet slow.

    Oven cleaner is very caustic. If you dont 100% rinse and neutralize you might experience paint adhesion problems, if you are painting the engine.
     
  16. Dec 14, 2018
    Keys5a

    Keys5a Sponsor

    Florida Keys
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    I start out with regular Gunk spray, let it soak in. Follow up with a pressure washer, then with hand scraping and brake parts spray.
    -Donny
     
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  17. Dec 14, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I would also be careful with the brake cleaner. That's a very aggresive solvent, and it could damage plastic parts. Just FYI - the last spray can of oven cleaner I had ate through the steel can just sitting on a shelf ... very caustic. I don't buy it any more, now that I have a self-cleaning oven.

    You might want to install an outdoors heated water tap for your pressure washer, if you are really serious about removing oily gunk.
     
  18. Dec 14, 2018
    OldAdobe

    OldAdobe Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    N. CA
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    When working inside the shop, I try to first use GoJo handcleaner, nongrit, on greasy baked on crud. It works, especially when using a stiff parts brush and brass brush. I remove it with Scott blue shop towels (if its too cold outside to rinse the parts). It works great for cleaning greasy wires. For painted parts, I follow up with using another degreaser for paint prep. or a wirewheel or tap/brakecleaner on threads.
     
  19. Dec 14, 2018
    truckee4x4

    truckee4x4 Grant Kaye 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Truckee CA
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    Thanks everyone for all the recommendations, tips, and tales from your experiences. Here's a few photos of how "clean" I was able to get it last night (you should have seen it before it came out!) 20181214_GK_untitled shoot_Photo Dec 14, 6 54 12 AM.jpg 20181214_GK_untitled shoot_Photo Dec 14, 6 54 01 AM.jpg 20181214_GK_untitled shoot_Photo Dec 14, 6 53 54 AM.jpg

    Will see how far I can get this over the weekend with some of what I've learned from y'all.
     
    Bowbender likes this.
  20. Dec 14, 2018
    Uncle Vin

    Uncle Vin Member 2022 Sponsor

    Long Island, New...
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