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Preparing To Drop Transmission

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Hellion, Aug 5, 2018.

  1. Aug 5, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    I'm about ready to begin a slow, arduous transmission/transfer case removal, tidy-it-up as I go, replace the clutch and reassemble it. I'm a noob and this is my first time. I just found out I have the T86AA trans

    I laugh nervously every time I crawl underneath it because the underside is so dirty with caked on grease and mud, in some places 1/4" thick. o_O

    1. I have a wet, oozing grease around the parking brake drum, transfer case, transmission and everything in between. I don't think the brake can hold properly being so greasy. I guess there's a bad seal in the vicinity.
    What kind of gasket set would I need?

    2. I just discovered the rear driveshaft yoke attached to the brake drum is loose by quite a margin; I can rattle it by hand. The nuts and bolts can be wiggled and rotated together. I thought the bolts would be fixed studs. I guess I will have to get inside the brake drum to secure the entire yoke.
    It just irked me--that it was driven that way while the clutch was going out.

    Anyone know the part number/name of the round rubber donut that supports the transmission at the red arrow?

    IMG_0221A.jpg
     
  2. Aug 5, 2018
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    Is your jeep a four speed?
     
  3. Aug 5, 2018
    mike starck

    mike starck Member

    salem,oregon
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    He said it is a T 86 borg warner 3 speed non syncro first gear
     
  4. Aug 5, 2018
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    Yeah I missed that I just the spacers under the cross member.
     
  5. Aug 5, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I would buy a kit from Novak
    The Novak Guide to the Dana Spicer Model 18 Transfer Case

    Parts for the Dana Model 18 Transfer Case

    As far as i know, all the new ones are Omix brand, so buy from your favorite seller. This is just the first one that popped up.
    Transfer Case Mount Insulator Kit Fits 41-71 Jeep & Willys with Dana 18 transfer case

    They are all just like yours. Gross. The 4 bolts just hang out in there and the heads just butt up against the drive yoke on the side of the brake drum. Its not ideal, but works.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
    Hellion likes this.
  6. Aug 5, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I would suggest going through the entire transmission and transfer case, disassemble, clean and inspect everything. Then you will know what replacement parts you might need...such as new brake shoes to replace your oil saturated ones. There are so many places they can leak, might as well get them all while you have them apart. Novak has the most complete rebuild kits from my experience and good to get their hardened intermediate shaft for the t-case.

    Dive on in. You'll get lots of support here if you hit any snags.
     
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  7. Aug 5, 2018
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Wow it looks like that brake drum is about to fall off the back of that t-fer case. One big mistake when going back together is not putting sealer on the splines on the output shaft. It will leak if you don't. Do NOT use RED gasket sealer.
     
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  8. Aug 5, 2018
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yeah, you have to just go for it. You will find lots of things that need fixing as you go. Also plan to reseal the transmission and transfer case both. That's the minimum you'll want to do. There will be lots of cleaning and painting too. The Dana 18 typically needs rebuilding in any Jeep that wasn't owned by an enthusiast ... wearing out quickly is its major fault (besides leaking ... a lot).
     
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  9. Aug 5, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    Sounds like there is a story behind this?
     
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  10. Aug 5, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    The most daunting thing is not knowing how to drop the tranny (just reading a mere description in either the Haynes or the FSM on how to remove the transmission) and trying to picture the procedure in 3D. I don't want to mess anything up in doing so.

    Oh no! Glad you spotted that. Of course I had no idea. :shrug:

    Please elaborate on the sealer and which type I should use.
     
  11. Aug 5, 2018
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Do a search on (A leak free transfer case) for some insight.
     
  12. Aug 6, 2018
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    For me it was just all about being careful and not hurting myself. I pulled my SM420 with T-case attached on mine. I used some wood blocks for support and lowered it all down as far as I could on the floor jack then my son helped me move it off the jack to the floor. It wasn't that bad really. Now getting it back in :n:, yeh that's bad. I ended up building a wooden cradle that held everything nicely and allowed my floor jack to slide underneath the cradle, worked really well. One thing you can do is slide a 2x4 inside your front springs all the way across. This will support the oil pan and keep the engine from rotating when you detach your cross member (I'm sure if you read that wonky sentence 7 times it will make sense).

    The biggest mistake I made was not knowing there was a removable panel to access the top two bolts on the bell housing, it is amazingly hard to get those out if you don't know there is a removable panel :banghead:.
     
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  13. Aug 6, 2018
    TIm E

    TIm E Aggressively average

    NW Arkansas
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    I did mine similar to what James mentioned above. Really best to have a helper if possible. I removed the transmission, t-case and overdrive as one unit with cross-member still attached and a floor jack under the cross member from behind. I left the bellhousing attached to to the motor and unbolted from the rear of the bellhousing. With the motor supported, everything else disconnected (front/rear driveshafts, speedo cable, shift tower removed, etc.), lowered the jack slightly and eased everything to the rear until the input shaft cleared the bellhousing. The jack handled the weight, my helper and I just had to steady it and move it rearward. Once the jack was all the way down, we were able to just lift it off the jack onto the floor.

    Came out like this...


    Went back in like this (minus the shift tower)...

     
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  14. Aug 6, 2018
    CJeep5

    CJeep5 New Member

    California
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    IIRC, when I dropped my trans/xfer case years ago, I use an engine hoist and a sling. This is after using a floor jack the first go 'round. It's nice having a removable floor!!
     
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  15. Aug 6, 2018
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I have never had a removable floor in any jeep or vehicle I have pullled and engine or transmission. The shift tower comes off and the bolt holes will hold a gain for a cherry picker to lower it down.

    I use a jack stand to hold the engine at a downward angle under the oil pan witha piece of plywood.

    The top 2 bolts for Chevy or Buick get 2 long extensions stuck together with a swivel socket to reach.
     
  16. Aug 9, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I put a Novak kit in my Jeep about 500 miles ago, all new parking brake shoes, springs, turned drum. It worked great up until now, it is wet with oil now, I didn't do what you said, I am going to now. Thanks for the tip. Rick
     
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  17. Aug 9, 2018
    Don X

    Don X The Prodigal Moderator Staff Member 2023 Sponsor

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    I appreciate my removable floor pieces. That, and an engine hoist, makes for a smooth removal and installation process.
     
  18. Sep 29, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    About ready to do the deed. I'm slow-moving. :oops:

    According to the FSM and Haynes, the step in removing the transmission that states, "Remove the transmission-to-bellhousing bolts and carefully pry the transmission to the right and disengage the clutch control lever tube ball joint"....(aka the clutch bellcrank);

    Is this the only way to free the trans from the clutch-control-lever-tube? Can it be removed from the chassis first?
    Is the clutch tube/bellcrank supported on both ends by small lengths of rod or something?
     
  19. Sep 29, 2018
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    There is a ball on a stud . Pretty easy to just move the tran assy to the right a slight amount to slip the ball out of the tube.
     
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  20. Sep 29, 2018
    Bowbender

    Bowbender I'm workin' on it!

    Northern Minn.
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    The bracket/stud on the frame end of your control lever tube should be held on by two bolts. I was able to remove the bracket and tube by removing the bolts and shifting that end sideways until it was free. I did this to do the chain linkage swap. I didn't move the transmission until I got a wild hair to swap a four speed in....:D
     
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