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1948 CJ2A Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by DanStew, Feb 13, 2016.

  1. Jan 20, 2017
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    What's going on between the valve and cylinder at the 2nd cylinder back? From the picture it looks like some deep pitting from corrosion or something.

    I don't know a thing about these flat heads so I can offer no advice about sealants around the threads. I'm kinda learning as you go. Thanks for that.

    I would not imagine, though, use of thread sealant or anything like that on the studs. I would think that would affect proper torque values. The gasket should, theoretically, seal what needs to be sealed like on any other head. But, I'm guessing here. I'll go back to my seat now.
     
  2. Jan 20, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    i believe it is jsut dirt, grease, oil and pb blaster. i did not see any rust at all on any surface.
     
  3. Jan 21, 2017
    Oldriginal86

    Oldriginal86 Member

    Pasadena, Md.
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    There is obviously bad things going on in #4 cylinder. I would clean the head and check for cracks. If none are visible, take it to a machine shop and have it tested. It doesn't get any easier at this point to pull the stuck valve and the two from that rusted cylinder. Don't put it back together until the cause of failure is found.
     
  4. Jan 21, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    I cleaned up the head and block checking for cracks. I did not find any. So that is good news. i pulled the valve keepers and the valves popped out and looked good.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The valves looked much the same. The shaft that rides in the guide is not corroded and smooth
    [​IMG]

    Here are pics of the head and valve area where i had antifreeze in the valve galley and on the tappet of the intake valve. I did not see any cracks or issues
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now to start scrubbing scrubbing scrubbing the valves
     
  5. Jan 21, 2017
    Twin2

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    if the engine didn't knock or smoke . carry on (y) did you tap that stuck valve . and did it slam shut
     
  6. Jan 21, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    i tapped it and it popped back in place. it did fight coming out. and i had another give a fight, but they came out fine. The old oil and grime was just a bit sticky i guess.
     
  7. Jan 22, 2017
    Mark Wahlster

    Mark Wahlster Member

    Silverton, OR
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    Head Studs

    1. chase threads in the Block with a tap
    2. clean threads with a bronze .40-.45 cal. bore brush like used to clean a pistol barrel
    3. clean threads with a Bore swab (cotton like a huge Q-tip) use a little brake cleaner on the swab
    4. Chase threads on the Studs with a Die
    5. Wipe threads down clean with Spray Brake cleaner and a shop rag
    6. allow both sets of threads to dry
    7. Using Permatex II non hardening sealer coat the threads on each stud with just enough sealer to fill all the threads for 1/2" from bottom
    8. Screw the studs in until they bottom out against the bump in the middle of the stud good and FINGER tight
    9. Allow to dry 24 hours

    You can no proceed with what ever the head gasket you have chosen recommends as to sealer etc.
    Follow the Service manual for the bolt torquing sequence Torque to spec then retorque after a hour or two of operation.
     
  8. Jan 22, 2017
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
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    As was mentioned, check closely for cracks. Those F-head & L-head blocks have a nasty habit of cracking between the two center exhaust valves and can be very difficult to detect without magnafluxing.
     
    47v6 likes this.
  9. Jan 28, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Well waiting for some funds to get the seals to finally close up the motor.
    I did find out why i had a really large oil leak when i first started the engine.
    I at first thought it was the front crank seal. BUT after loosening the bolts to the timing cover, I reached under the timing cover i discovered that my oil pan did not have any bolts on the entire front lip of the oil pan, so the oil was just pushing its way out of the pan. I wish i would have found this out before i cleaned the crud off the valves and let it drain into the oil pan. So now i have to replace the oil pan gasket. Oh well
     
  10. Jan 29, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    Dropped the oil pan today. Found about a 1/2 inch of decades old sludge at the bottom the pan :(

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So also found the pan was missing a total of 6 bolts in the front of the oil pan. Bottom end looked real clean though so that was a good feeling. Gonna clean the heck out of the pan. I decided that since it was just the oil pan leaking, i can get a way with not replacing the crank seal or timing cover. So that is gonna be less work :) Now to get some rubber gloves and clean out the muck :(
     
  11. Feb 4, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    So i put everything back together. Filled up the fluids and go to crank it up, well had a discharged battery, was able to crank a bit before i had to recharge. Then i look under the engine and there is a pool of antifreeze :(
    [​IMG]

    I checked my hoses for leaks, nothing and then i saw a leak down the side of the valve cover, i follow it up and it see the headgasket is leaking like mad
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So now i need many drinks to take the edge off. I am a bit bummed now. I am a bit done now with this motor and i have to figure out what to do now. Part of me just wants to sell/trade the thing off. Other is just thinking about a different motor/tranny combo for it. Just in a very low place tonight. UGH!!
     
  12. Feb 4, 2017
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
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    Man...that sucks!!
     
  13. Feb 4, 2017
    Twin2

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    just one question . did you spray head gasket sealer ( copper coat) on it before you dropped head on it
     
  14. Feb 4, 2017
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Hang in there Dan. If it was easy everybody would have a flatty!
     
  15. Feb 4, 2017
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Man, that IS a drag. Sorry to hear it. Maybe time for one of those Aluminum high performance heads from Hickey back in the day. I dunno. Walk away for a week, have a few glasses of something nice, and think on it a while. That's what's nice about this just being a hobby. Don't have to have it done by Monday or anything.

    We've all been there. That Dana 27 Power Lock deal all summer long had me ready to throw in the towel. We're with ya, hoss.
     
    73 cj5 likes this.
  16. Feb 4, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

    Lexington, South...
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    I did not put anything one teh head gasket. i did not use a copper. I used a FelPro which said to install dry. All head bolts torqued to 70lbs. I am debating on spending a little more money, get the copper gasket and some new head bolts so i know they will be sealed when screwed into the block. That will be another $100 thrown at it. I had a buddy who said it happened to him also, but he said he got the engine hot, then retorqued it and it sealed up. Saying the heat of the engine warmed up kind of equalized things.
     
  17. Feb 5, 2017
    Twin2

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    If there is no water getting in oil . I would try what your buddy said
     
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  18. Feb 5, 2017
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    10 plus years ago I was in a similar position. I got a pile of free flat fender parts including 2 L heads. Well I broke them down and took them to the machine shop for hot tank and magna flux. Yeah crack between the 2 center exhaust valves. I gave up and got a buick odd fire 225. It was cheaper than fixing, had lots more power and weighed 100lbs +/- less. Today I would have gone 4.3 FI and not looked back.
    2003 Chevy Silverado 4.3 liter V-6 engine
     
  19. Feb 5, 2017
    DanStew

    DanStew Preowned Merkin salesman Staff Member

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    well i pulled the plugs and read the compression readings after my new headgasket.
    #1 - 85, #2 - 80, #3 - 75, #4 - 79

    And when cranking the engine over i did not have any antifreeze shoot out of the holes. So that is a little bit reassuring. The fluid did not get in the cylinders. So i will recharge the battery again and try again to fire it up and get the temp up to see if it will seal itself up.
     
  20. Feb 5, 2017
    Mark Wahlster

    Mark Wahlster Member

    Silverton, OR
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    With compression numbers like that your engine is worn out. At the very least you need to have the head shaved and very possibly the block decked. if your going to do that then you should also just bore it and completely rebuild the engine. Around here with a good machine shop and some careful shopping for parts doing the assembly your self a complete rebuild will run under 2 grand.
     
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