Considering A 1973 Commando With Braking Issues

I have been searching for a Jeep with more leg room and a hard top. I found a rust free 73 Commando with a 304 and auto. Non working speedometer and the owner states the brakes don't work so well even though it as new drums, shoes, master and booster. Work done by owner though a shop check and adjusted the brakes still not quite right. Is this a common braking issue with Commando's?

 

Should be a great way to grind down the price. Nothing to a brake system. Should be 11" brakes all the way around. $150 at RocAuto for every piece in the entire system.

 

Yep. All cheap, common, easy-to-source parts. Nothing mysterious about the brakes - if the work was done right, they should work fine.

The only issue I recall is that there are no cores for the power brake booster (assuming it has power brakes - as I recall most do, esp. a V8/Automatic model). You can have the booster rebuilt at a custom shop easily.

I like the Commandos - I'd go for it.

 

I just had a few more photos send to me. Seems like one or the other may not be original.

 

The master/booster combo is a pretty common aftermarket replacement, available from a lot of vendors. Universal booster, Vette master, lot of guys running that combo, usually with disc brakes though. Crappy brakes is a good bargaining point, probably nothing serious. I'd go for it.

 

Just out of couriousosity what are they asking for it? I am looking at a rough 72 and trying to see if the price is fair.

 

Hand controls ...

I don't recognize the master and booster... they are not original. Pack Rat recognizes them.

 

The owner also stated that the Jeep does not like to shift into 3rd until 35 mph. He would prefer if I towed it home because of the brake issue. So I am guessing that my CJ5 bumper will bolt on with a few new holes drill in his frame. And I can use my tow bar to tow it home. Will putting the 400 turbo transmission in neutral and transfer case in neutral be good enough?? Or will I have to disconnect the drive lines also?

 

On the brakes - the wheel cylinders are seized up. That's why it stops poorly. Every one of my 3 Commandos had that wheel cylinder issue.

On towing double neutral should be fine as long as you are not traversing the country (like NY to OR). Done it many times.

 

The wheel cylinders may be siezed or the adjusters may be on the wrong side (L on R & R on L). When I bought my Jeepster, the PO had put the adjusters on the wrong sides. The adjusters kept backing off, resulting in a low pedal.

Be careful flat towing a jeep any distance with a D20 t-case. The gears in the case don't circulate oil to the output shaft bearings when it's in neutral. Best to drop the rear drive shaft.

 

You may be thinking of the Dana 300 William, D20's don't have that problem.

 

We've covered flat towing alot. Just because one person got away with flat towing something all over the country doesn't mean the next guy will make it 5 miles without burning something up. I always advise people to pull the driveline or put it on a trailer.