MD Juan Tub Kit 1969 CJ5 4CLY (7/2016)

Drive train is installed! Brake lines installed but waiting for a rebuilt Master cylinder. Rear drawbar is on. Clutch linkage is started.

After another 20 minutes of work, the multipitch thread file worked great to reverse crankshaft pulley thread damage.

Exhaust system, praking brake rigging, some electrical.... then.... wait for it.... the MD Juan body!!!

 

Nice build! I'm following this one for inspiration for my M38A1-C restoration project.

 

Thanks, Netherlands.

'Got a late start today and then had a disappointment with a new master brake cylinder. I have had no luck finding a rebuild kit for my 1"bore dual circuit Wagner Master Brake Cylinder (casting # FF50314 G36). So I looked for a replacement. I've been buying parts mostly at RockAuto.com but they mistakenly only list a single circuit master brake cylinder for 1969, when actually my 1969 CJ5 had a dual circuit master brake cylinder. So I reached into RockAuto's 1970 CJ5 parts list to snag a dual cylinder but they didn't have a (Wagner) p/n match. I selected a rebuilt unit. The one they sent didn't match the Wagner picture, but more importantly it was missing the internal pressure regulators (?) my original had at each port. Back to the drawing board...

Point of interest...you can see the 1969 CJ5 didn't locate the gas tank in the rear... (it is still located under the drivers seat.) We talked about moving it but decided to keep it authentic.

We moved on and struggled a while installing the original muffler and exhaust pipes. A small hole at a joint had to be welded. It all got hi temp black paint. We have to replace one bad muffler hanger. We couldn't get the fully assembled exhaust system in until we took off the tires and raised the chassis to the maximum height of our supports (so we could thread it in). But we got it by coming in over the right rear wheel!

We then added the rear tow ball bracket, the tow loop, re-installed the drawbar assembly with shims missed earlier, and began working on the initial installation of the parking brake cable and it's adjustment.

The business end of the parking brake cable fits into a narrow slit in a curved two prong "fork" attached to the frame. The cable sheath has a narrow but stepped OD barrel terminal end that fits into the slit in that fork. Two washers which center the barrel terninal in the fork. also sandwich the fork front and back. The fork curve captures the washers. I can see there once was a circlip or snap ring around the barrel to hold the washers in place, but the final retaining OD edge of the barrel is worn away. So we'll have to file in a new edge on the final barrel step and also find an appropriate retaining clip. After successfully repairing the crankcase thread with a multipitch file I'm ready for this new filing challenge

Next Tuesday we are going to Hersheypark for the giant auto flea market, but maybe on Monday we'll finish the parking brake and start on some frame wiring.

At Hershey, I'm selling a new unused CJ5 fiberglass hood, the used wide wheels and tires, the extra (brand new 1972+ CJ5) grill, and maybe the extra (used) tailgate, and the excess seals and gaskets I didn't use. Next year I'll take the tub, front fenders, and windshield frame ...if I still have them.

 

Finding the "right" master cylinder has been a trip. 'Turns out the best reference was right under my nose ...on this site. 'Looks like I'll have to go with the Crown J0945556 (about $110... ouch). I have 10" drums.

 

Short day today...

My 16" aftermarket "stock" wheels arrived today (from Performance Plus Tire, CA) and I tried to mount them but the new wheel's 3-5/8 center cut out wouldn't fit over my 4" diameter locking hub.

The wheels have a fitment guarantee and are advertized as a correct choice for my 1969. I found on this earlycj5 forum that several brands of hubs were added by the dealers. I suspect they all had a different diameter. Mine is a WARN hub (with allen head bolts).

Can anyone tell me if a 4" wheel hub cut out diameter is standard on a stock 16" wheel, or is the 3-5/8" diameter standard.

Has anyone ever had to grind larger a stock wheel center to fit around a WARN locking hub?



Thanks.

 

That is a bummer. Have you tried mounting a wheel on the rear axle to a least confirm that they got the bolt pattern right? The actual hub itself is over 4 inches in diameter so the diameter of the locking hub should not matter. I think the center hole of the wheel could be opened up but I think it would be best to send them back. Some wheels are flat around the center hole and some I have seen have a formed lip and other stampings. I would be hesitant to remove a lip or cut through any stampings but if it is simply flat a would consider having the hole enlarged. I do think it should be the suppliers problem though.

 

center hole diameter of my current 15" steel wheels is about 4 1/8" using my trusty tape... should be at least this to clear the front hub.

 

the center helps to line the wheel up dont cut it send em back

 

Thanks all for the quick response.

First, I mounted two wheels on the rear; the bolt pattern is correct.

Second, the lug nuts (properly tightened) should true up the wheel position on the center of wheel. I don't see wheel centering relying too much on the hub / cut out relation. I note the rear wheel hub is well inside and away from the cut out, and they run true.

The wheel manufacturer authorized the sellers to have me find a local machine shop to quote opening up the hub dia. If the new cut is made "on center", it will not affect the wheel balance... otherwise it will.

But now I think perhaps a bigger problem exists because the wheels were punched to include two different stud patterns and the second (unused) pattern has a slightly smaller pattern diameter than the stock Jeep stud pattern. Since you guys report the stock wheel ID at 4.125", now I worry that an increase to a larger 4.125" hub cut out might get too close to the unused holes.

Here is how far it is off. (See overlay of 10" drum on new wheel below). You can also just about make out the very slight lip on the wheel hub cut out.



I'm going back to the manufacturer.

Thanks again.

 

My original '65 steel rims have the 4 1/8" center hole. These clear the dealer-installed Warn Lock-o-Matic hubs. I have a set of factory steel wagon wheels from the 1980's that have 4" center holes that won't clear these hubs, though they are very close to doing so. Some lockout hubs have a smaller diameter that clear the rims with smaller holes.
-Donny

 

Thanks, Donny. I've asked the manufacturer if they can provide a 4-1/8" ID wheel. Thanks for confirming that 4" won't work.

JimS

 

Here is an update on my "stock wheel" issue.

Despite advertising they had one, Performance Plus Tire (PPT) of CA was unable to come up with an "original" style JEEP wheel with a large enough hub cut out (4.25 original) to clear the WARN premium hub. So they have agreed to a 100% refund for their small hub cut out (3-5/8") "stock" Jeep wheels ($99 EA) upon return, and they are providing return shipping, plus paying COSTCO's $15/EA remount/balancing fee for the replacement wheels I found elsewhere.

I tried to get Quadratec to match the PPT price but they would not since they carry a different brand (Omix-Ada).

I found replacements at Quarter Ton Military (QTM) at $98/EA plus shipping ($80)... So I'm out another $80 after the PPT mistake.


We worked on rebuilding the wiring harness this week. The front lighting portion is salvagable but needs new taping and the connectors need cleaning or to be replaced. What have a lot of fabric coated multi strand industrial wire to use on the wiring g harness.. some colors even match!

We tested the two brake pressure switches today... all ok.

The back up switch worked only intermittently when installed, but it worked every time on the bench. So I filed about 1/32 off the bottom surface (where it tightens against the transmission) so the contact ball would be depressed a bit more buy the internal transmission shift rail ...and it worked(!). I figure the shift rail must be bit worn where the "reverse" switch contact ball touches it.

And we cleaned all the electrical components and began testing them (lights, wiper, hi/low floor switch, voltage regulator, ignition switch, flasher switch, etc). Oil pressure switch, coolant temp sender, and the heater coolant shut off valve were all installed today.

The turn signal switch is a surprising rats nest which I have yet to tackle.

I went to KINKO's and blew up a copy of the wiring diagram to help us trace out each circuit. Even with that, some portions of it are tough to follow. 1969 is a transitional year, some with side marker lights, some without, some with electric wipers at the windshield base, some without. But reading diagrams of different engine sizes and a later years for similarities helped clear up all our questions.

We're taking next week off. New replacement wheels should arrive by then and then the wiring should wrap up the week we get back. WARN is sending (no charge) a replacement dash sticker to replace the one lost during dash paint prep. We will paint, wire, and bench test the dash before proceeding. 'Time to buy the paint!

 

I have a gage question you might like to comment on. When I acquired my 1969 jeep this spring it had a 3 gage cluster hanging below the dash (please see picture).



Since I'm shooting for a "stock" look, (and since they were too small and poorly positioned for my old eyes to read) I removed them thinking they had to be "aftermarket" anyway. Since then, I've seen several dash photos from about the same vintage, and several people have them. They are "aftermarket", right?

I'm about to rebuild the dash and will salvage the additional cluster if it was an authentic Jeep accessory.

Also, I saw on earlycj5.com that a gage or two could be added as a stock item. My jeep also included a gage left of the steering column (see photo)



I regret the photo is too poor to make out what this is, but does this look like a stock location and stock gage to you guys?

Thanks

 

Focker is correct...Jeep Renegades had an oil pressure gauge and an ammeter mounted in the dash to the left of the steering column. If you've seen pictures of those it might cause you some confusion.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Focker & colojeepguy.

 

'Sorry... another "original?" question...



I found this relay on the firewall, engine side. The slip-on connectors are obviously aftermarket... and 3 red wires is suspect... and I don't find any relays in the 1969 +/- wiring diagrams, so I don't think this relay belongs in a stock Jeep... right?

Since I decided early on to rebuild the wiring harness using mostly a wiring diagram, I didn't trace this relay wiring out before removing it... I don't know how it was used.. original or aftermarket. But, the PO added a second horn with an auxiliary horn button, plus a set of fog lights... I'm guessing it was for the fog lights and not original anything.

Thanks.

 

Thanks.