'57 CJ5: Updating The Old School

Thanks guys. I can't check anything at the moment since it's 2 hours away. Originally contacted the owner for the Dana20 and when I asked the trans came with it also.

 

So I spent some time getting the rear hangers set and tacked.

Finally set on it's own two feet!



Just kidding. Still rocking the 31s.





Trying to figure out rear shackle angle, I think I got it. With the two 2x4s, I think I can get a good angle set without lifting it more than I need to.



I think with one board there isn't enough room.



One thing that I found was that it's at or near the same height as before. Damn it! But, the spring rate is much softer. I can jump in the bed and actually flex it where I couldn't do that before. Hopefully this will sag down or else I'll have to figure something out not exactly a game killer.

 

Only can see the second pic.

 

Does it work now? Photobucket is acting up so I tried something different

 

Ok, so I want to update this group. I've been a little more active on Pirate4x4 and I feel bad about that because this is a really great group here.

The overall plans have changed a bit for this vehicle. Originally I was going to keep it narrow with a Dana 30 front and keep the Dana 44, but after looking for parts and not finding them affordably I decided to change course. Instead I'll be going wider. I found a WT FSJ Front Dana 44 and I'm going to narrow it 4" and for the proper spring pad width and 60" WMS and it already has disc brakes. For the rear I tried looking for a Waggy Offset Dana 44 but I didn't find any locally and those that were further away were pricey. So I decided that an early Isuzu Rodeo Dana 44 is 58" and is already disc brake with integrated drum. Since it's centered drop and I'm not completely satisfied with the T90, I went out looking for a 4 speed (hence the T18 above) and a Dana 20 TC.

So here we are, the new plan is:

Narrowed WT Dana 44 Front
Isuzu Dana 44 Rear
T18 - Wide Ratio
D20 - Transfer case - twin sticked
225 Dauntless V6

Profit?

 

So the new trans is in decent shape. Some rust on the gears but nothing horrendous. Bonus points are that it looks like it may have come from a CJ previously as the ears have already been drilled









The worst of it, need to dig into the Dana 20

 

It's a shame your so far away, I tried selling a Waggy 44 w/3.54 gears around here but no body wants it, 58" 22" to yoke center 36" the other side. I'd give it to you but shipping would be too expensive. I usually get out that way in the spring, (April) but that's probably to far away as well.

Jay

 

How far do you go out here, I'm always willing to take free or cheap parts! What's funny is I know stuff is out here it's just never up for sale. If I had more time I'd do a lot more pounding the streets looking for parts.

 

I go to Glamis, but I have inlaws in San Juan Capistrano

 

Cool, I live in Yuma so it's pretty close!

 

Started taking apart the trans/tcase combo.

The trans had a lot of water in the oil with some minor rust to show for it. Everything looks use able and a simple rebuild should be good. Confirming with Novak on the correct kit to purchase, I believe the one for a 70s trans is right.

The tcase looked terrible on the outside but the inside was immaculate. I'm not going to bother taking it apart if I don't have to for the twin stick. The gears look brand new. I do need a new front output yoke and shield since the old ones are very rusted. Aside from seals it'd good to go!

 

Potential rat truck project.... let's see if $500 takes it.

1960's Willy's Jeep

 

Nice work. Im following for sure now.

 

You don't want your axle perfectly centered in the wheel well... The axle travels to the rear as it pushes up... You can see mine is a little forward in this pic ↓↓↓↓↓



And then here it is at full stuff↓↓↓↓↓↓

My shackle is only 4 inch's long and it seems like the axle moves a bunch... Then the droop side pulls forward. Something to look at anyway, I'm by no means an expert. Build looks good though. Laters

 

Thanks!

Hey Jon, yeah I know that and I should be forward of center once the wheels are actually mounted. I just wasn't sure if I wanted to go rearward in general.

 

Your driveshaft will thank you if you push the axle back...

 

Also "set" the rear shackle mount. Just makes me feel like I accomplished something. Installed the new rear axle and put my 35s on. It's taller but not much than before. If I play with the shackle hanger and the shackle shape I can shave some inches. But not until I'm closer to curb weight.

Refurbishing the old rear springs, now front springs. Removed 6 leaves and they're much more pliable. May have to add a spring. We'll see.

 

I would suggest that you get some ballast and load that suspension............otherwise everything you do may have to be changed at a later date once all the real weight is applied.

I find that sand bags are the easiest and cheapest way to accomplish that.

Load the front and then see where everything sets..............then move the weight to the rear or center. 800-1000 lbs makes a big difference.

 

Looks like you need a bit less shackle angle. Leave the shackle mount and move the spring mount forward 3/4~1". Either that or move the shackle mount back the same amount. Do what Tarry said and then jump on the bumper. Make sure the shackle doesn't flip up and lock. Tymbombs advice about wheel centering in your opening is spot on.

Some of the guys helped me with my little build. They have some great advice and I learned some stuff myself
2X4 frame for my CJ2A

 

Thanks guys. Like I said, not set on this placement and shackle angle. Just wanted to get the rear in place and secure for my work further in the front. The final adjustments will be made when it's more complete and near final weight.