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4x4 indicator switch

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by johneyboy03, Dec 10, 2015.

  1. Aug 1, 2016
    r_unda

    r_unda Member

    Corpus Christi,...
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    I am only getting contact on 4H (all the way to the front). Machined surface on 4L, 2H. Do I have a different T-Case? I installed the switch on the t-case passenger side hole.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  2. Aug 1, 2016
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    interesting this is brought up..
    I wanted to do something similar on my D300..

    Issue I had is the shift rails need to be machined for the ball switch to get tripped.
    plan aborted.

    Wonder if you're experience thing same thing.
     
  3. Aug 1, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    As I recall, the Dana 20 shift rails shift each axle separately. There is an interlock pill that prevents shifting into high and low range at the same time. So, your 4WD indicator must work with the front axle rail all the way forward, and all the way back, and not in the middle. thus you need two notches in the front axle rail.

    If you need an indent in the shift rail, I'd think it does not have to be "machined" as such. Machining (ie on a mill) would be the fastest way to do it, but you could file the needed notch. Or grind it with your dremel or die grinder. It doesn't have to be perfect - just smooth enough so that the ball rolls into and out of the notch when you shift.

    Just make sure the new notch does not interfere with the shifter interlock. I expect the interlock recess is on the opposite side of the rail from the indicator notch. I don't have a transfer case in front of me to look at this, but I expect they will not interfere.
     
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2016
  4. Aug 1, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    The notches or indents for the light switch is on top of the shift rails and the notches or indents for the interlocks are on the side of the shift rails. Unlike the 18 transfer case, the 20 and 300 use two shift interlock pills. It's pretty easy to carefully grind the appropriate notches or indents with a dremel with patience and a fairly steady hand. I've converted lots of 20's and 300's to be able to have front drive only in both high and low range with the rear in neutral for "front digs". Done correctly you can maintain the interlock so you cannot accidently get the front in one range and the rear in another. You have to convert two twin stick shifters however and once done cannot convert back to a single stick without welding up the added interlock notches and machining smooth.
     
  5. Aug 3, 2016
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Hum i dont understand this morning the need of machining?

    I install that on two dana 20 t case without any mod and it work right.
     
  6. Aug 4, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Which part?
    With just a twin stick conversion on a 20 or 300 you can do front digs but in one range only, not both. Unless your shift rails are ridiculously worn out. The conversion I've done opens up possibilities of front only low and high range, neutral, and rear only low and high range, but the interlocks still work.
    Or are you talking about the switches working correctly?
     
  7. Aug 4, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Which part?
    With just a twin stick conversion on a 20 or 300 you can do front digs but in one range only, not both. Unless your shift rails are ridiculously worn out. The conversion I've done opens up possibilities of front only low and high range, neutral, and rear only low and high range, but the interlocks still work.
    Or are you talking about the switches working correctly?
     
  8. Aug 5, 2016
    r_unda

    r_unda Member

    Corpus Christi,...
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    Anyone else just getting the 4H light only?
     
  9. Aug 13, 2016
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hickory, Pa
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    Well. you've peaked my interest. So I'm going to get the Napa switch, and see what I can do. In looking at my shift rails, both rails are all the way out or forward in 4H, and there is a detent in the left rail, pulling the shifter back one notch is 2H then neutral, going back to that non existing 2L, then going all the way back pushes both the right and left rails all the way in and there is a detent in the right rail. So if I get 2 switches I should get the light to come on, for both 4H and 4L.
    we'll see what actually happens as soon as I can get the switches, I'm worried because the left rail plug is so close to the shifter mount rail. If the switch is too big around it won't fit.

    [​IMG]

    Jay
     
  10. Aug 14, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Yes, looks too close for two of the generic switchs. There is a type of switch with a single post that grounds instead of connects, Jeep PN 3211322. It's the same as the lockout for a Dana 300 - https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-J3211322-Transfer-Switch/dp/B009XUZCS8 If they fit, you could use two of these, and the light would come on if either of them connects to ground.

    Just for anyone searching for Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS), this switch is also used for that.

    Just FYI, it's "piqued" Google
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2016
  11. Aug 14, 2016
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I may get one of each, the napa part looks smaller in diameter, hard to tell from the pic's

    Thanks Timgr, and all hail google!
     
  12. Aug 16, 2016
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    Only one swtich is needed, put over the right shift rail, it will illuminate when the front axle will be engaged.

    The left shift rail would only send a signal when in neutral (in theory)
     
  13. Aug 16, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    You need two indents to make the indicator light when in 4WD high and 4WD low. This can be on the front axle rail, at each end, or you can have one indent on the front axle rail for 4WD high, and a second indent on the rear axle rail for low range. Then the indicator light would be on in 4WD high and low, as well as 2WD low ... but few people intentionally use 2WD low.
     
  14. Aug 16, 2016
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    On my three dana 20 i got, check they work with the front shift rail, no modification was needed, just srew the switch in and i work right away for 4wd loc and high....
     
  15. Aug 17, 2016
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Interesting turn of events .... The Crown switch P/N J3211322 arrived, so I went down to give it a try, :( It is too short. The depth to the shift rail is 5/8". the Crown switch is 3/8" activated, and 7/16 disconnects. i.e. Normally Open, I might try using a 5/16" SS ball in the hole then screw the switch on top.
    But, if the switch is ON when on the rail and OFF when in the detent, I would have to use a SPDT relay and us the back side contacts. Meaning the relay would be on all the time, except when in neutral.
    I was expecting the switch to be off when on the rail. o_O
    Well, I have the NS6566 switch coming from NAPA on Friday, if it is also N/O this little side adventure will be at an end.

    FYI the crown switch fit in both holes, there was just enough clearance.

    Jay
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2016
  16. Aug 18, 2016
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    The crown swith you have order is the one for the dana 300 or quadratrac transfert case.

    The right switch is the NS6566 for the dana 20 application

    I realy suggest to buy the pigtail that goes with the switch, it make a waterproof connection between switch and pigtail

    pigtail is PN Napa EC11

    And the NS6566 need to be screw all the way down if you want to make it work, so the shortest one will never work.


    As for the on/off thing, when the ball is pushed it make a contact. So when in 2h and neutral no contact, 4h and 4lo there a contact.

    You can buy another switch to put over the rear shift rail, it will make contact when t case is in neutral.
     
  17. Aug 18, 2016
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Thanks, I'm waiting on Napa for the other switch, it's supposed to be here Friday. As for the plug, Napa wanted $23 for it, :shock:, Since the switch was $19.65, I will look else where for a compatible plug. Amazon has a set of 5 for $7, I'll see if they work.
    Jay
     
  18. Aug 19, 2016
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    The electrical connector you are looking for is a pretty common component in GM applications. It is used for example on the engine temperature sensor as well as other sensors. You could probably find one or more at the local pick n pull for next to nothing.
     
  19. Aug 19, 2016
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    :D(y)
     
  20. Aug 26, 2016
    Desert Runner

    Desert Runner Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    The NAPA switch arrived, and it is also a "Normally Open" Switch, and as I stated earlier, in post#35 to work properly will require a relay
    Well at least I have better plugs in the shift rail holes, instead of plastic. :rofl::rofl:!
     
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