locking hub studs

could anyone tell me the best way to locate hub studs?
or alternatives I might be able to find locally.

Dana 30 front end, I hear studs are better then bolts!

thanks!

 

None of the local stores in my area carry such a thing, I had to buy them online. Spicer part number 36326-2.

 

Hi Numbersix.
those appear to be the D shaped studs for the knuckle, I am looking specifically to replace the bolts that would fasten your locking hub onto the drive hub.

 

Gotcha.

 

Try the flaps should be able to match something up. Or the hardware store.

 

Bought mine from McMaster-Carr - www.mcmaster.com

Got the nylocks and hardened washers at the same time, though you can get those at your local Ace Hardware.

Auto parts stores often have a selection of studs too.

 

Numbersix, no worries I need those also so that helps!

Sterlclan sorry for my ignorance but what is the "Flaps"

Timgr specifically part number? measurements etc. I get lost on that website.

 

Not offhand. I can check at home later.

 

that would be great!

if you could also maybe let me know the threads and length and if the middle portion is not threaded I can maybe try a few local places before Mcmaster

 

This is not such a difficult thing to figure out ...

Remove one of the bolts and look at the diameter and thread count. You need a stud that is that long plus at least one thread extends beyond whatever lock nut you want to use. You can use studs that are not threaded in the middle, or not. Won't affect performance of the studs. Put the stud in the hole with some thread locker. Thread on the locking nut and tighten.

 

Are your hub bolts coming loose?? I had that issue. Nothing kept em tight. I safety wired em but that was a PITA if I wanted to remove them. Finally found an item called an NordLock? Washer thing. Spendy but works.

 

If you use studs it is best to use a nylock type locknut and not a metal pinched toplock style locknut. The toplock type actually galls up the threads when removed. Or the above mentioned Nord-lock type washers that work well under bolts or studs.

 

thanks for all the suggestions,

Tim, I understand that was hoping to use studs with no threads in the middle. I would assume this saves the hub body without threads trying to dig in (despite the factorys use of a bolt)

I will look at the nord locks.

 

Friendly local auto parts

 

I had this issue on my full floating D44 rear. I made my studs out of some grade 5 all thread from fastenal. I wanted to use studs too, but couldn't get the ones I wanted in the lengths I needed at the price that I wanted to pay. I threaded them all the way in with thread locker locktite. the kind you need heat to break free. I use nylock nuts and I have had no issue of them coming loose or breaking.

 

perfect, if its working I may as well replicate.
at first I thought of chopping off some gr8 heads and using that but maybe overkill.

I will have full floater on the rear so thats why I am trying to address the front now.

 

I tried the nord lock washer but aint get good result, always get loose. But having the front end locked with a spartan will cause the issu to be worse. I finaly ended by swapping internal hub using mixed part from gm/ford.

 

Most axles never have an issue with coming loose, others seem to never stay tight. Good quality fasteners seem to make a huge difference though.

 

I own a fastener wholesale business in canada, i've tried lots of combination to try to get rid of this problem.

 

I've tried both studs and grade 8 bolts. Actually, one side of my jeep has studs, and the other is bolts. Nothing special, actually, they are probably exhaust studs. I keep a cheap ratchet and 1/2" socket in my glove box, and check them at least 2x a day on the trail. After a few runs, they stopped working loose, and none have broken. I run lock washer on them also.