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Junk shackles?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Shad Rogers, Mar 16, 2016.

  1. Mar 16, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    Feb 21, 2016
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    So my 5's ride / steering is kinda scary. It kinda rolls and leans a lot, it may be due to the old springs. I have looked over the bearings and the other steering components it it seems pretty tight.

    I have read a lot and learned much from this forum. If money was no issue I'd like to put on a mild 2.5 lift with new shocks and springs but not now.

    I have been looking at my spring eyes and shackles, I can't tell if there are even bushings in there.

    I'm gonna take a closer look later, any recomendations? I like my small lift but if I can just throw some poly bushings in the springs (to make my ride more stable) and toss the shackles I'd be happy.

    Are the Omex-ADA Hd greaseable shackles any good, I have heard them mentioned here.

    http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc117/jeepmarine71_2007/0307161843a-1_zpsxah2ujov.jpg

    http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc117/jeepmarine71_2007/0229161753-1_zpsd8wu1dvw.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
  2. Mar 16, 2016
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Talk to member McRuff. He makes excellent products for a reasonable price (he works hard at keeping the price down) and you'd be supporting one of our own.
     
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  3. Mar 16, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    If you want the factory length shackles, Omix also sells the 916646 which is like the originals. Leaf Spring Shackle Kit, Front or Rear, fits 1952-71 Jeep CJ5, CJ6 & M38A1 These come with the factory-style steel and rubber "silent block" bushings.

    I have Mike's shackles on my CJ-6 - they are about an inch longer than the original shackles. Excellent quality. If you are wanting to lessen body roll, shortening the shackles will lower the COG by half the reduction in shackle length.

    However, body lean typically is not too much of a problem on these Jeeps, due to the stiff springs. Have you checked the alignment? Your local tire shop can tell you what the current geometry is. All they can adjust without major work is toe-in and center the steering, but they can give you the printout from the machine that will tell the whole story.
     
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  4. Mar 16, 2016
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    The greaseable ones from omix are decent parts keep em greased or buy some from mcruff
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2016
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  5. Mar 16, 2016
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Check your spring packs for broken leaves, also check your shock absorbers.

    H.
     
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  6. Mar 17, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    Would these work?

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Mar 17, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    I like those!. Great price too.
     
  8. Mar 17, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Yes. Make sure what you buy is for '55-75 CJs with the 1.75" width springs.

    Read up in old posts about removing the old bushings.
     
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  9. Mar 18, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    I just finished removing old bushings from the frame...

    like the old toyota commercial... I jumped in the air and shouted 'oh what a feeling'...

    So, I used all-thread, an air wrench and a deep socket and pulled the nut through two hangers on the frame... left the rubber behind. Used a hacksaw thru the hole to cut 4 slices in each of the remaining rubberized-sleeve that was rust-welded to the hanger sleeve. Then I used a punch and a hammer and peeled two of the strips back until it gave and fell out the other side...

    On the other two, the first one ate my all thread (seriously, stripped 3/8 rod threads out and never pulled the nut and the inner-sleeve out. So, I tried drilling... broke three bits... got mad and got out the torch, melted the rubber out, then got the hack saw out and repeated what I'd done on the others (4 slices on each, then a punch and a hammer to peel it all back). Had to drive one out with a chisel that was about the same diameter... dang they were stubborn.

    Still have the leaf springs to do, by the time I'm done there, I'll be a pro... at swearing and sweating while working on these.

    Bought a 1" reamer that fits on a drill. cleaned up the hanger sleeves. looks nice now...

    The prothane black ones I have fit nicely in the hangers now... easy peasy. (prothane set 1-1001) You need two of these sets, as there is only 6 in a box to do the hangers and the springs (That's 12 total, 8 on the springs, 4 on the frame).
     
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  10. Mar 18, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    I corrected my lack of toe-in. That helped a lot.
    My shackles aren't factory are they?
     
  11. Mar 18, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    Not sure, I have a set of factory shackles, they were thin pressed metal.

    I got an upgraded set from member @Mcruff here, and I'll be using these. Great price, value and looks keen too.
     
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  12. Mar 18, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    Thanks!
     
  13. Mar 18, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    Wow what an ordeal, I'll prepare myself.
     
  14. Mar 18, 2016
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    No. Or yes, they are not. This is what the factory ones look like -

    [​IMG]

    Only obvious difference is that Jeep used pinch nuts instead of the nylocks shown here. For '74-75, Jeep used a slightly different bushing with a longer inner shell - not sure why. Functionally these are fine for '74-75.

    This is the 916646 that I listed above, except the better picture is from Walck's Shackle Kit Silent Block Type 1957 Up
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2016
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  15. Mar 19, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    Thanks!
     
  16. Apr 17, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    I got the prothane bushings, Do you need to remove the outer metal sleeves in the spring eyes before putting the new bushings in?
     
  17. Apr 17, 2016
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    yes the spring eye should be clean.
     
  18. Apr 17, 2016
    Shad Rogers

    Shad Rogers Member

    Orlando Florida
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    Thanks
     
  19. Apr 17, 2016
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Chico CA
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    I also used a 1 inch bore hone to clean up the rust and minor dings.
     
  20. Apr 27, 2016
    dsrt4

    dsrt4 Member

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    When you go to get the spring bushings out see if a air hammer with a chisel bit will work for you.

    If you can position the chisel in the gap between the flat part of the leaf and the spring eye where they meet you can cut through them like butter.

    I used to do that all the time when I had narrow leaf springs. Makes it real quick.

    Frame still sucks to get the bushings out of the mounts though. Although I have used the chisel on them as well and cleaned up the gouge in the bore later on.
     
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