1957 cj-6

If you want to go that fast comfortably. You will need to change the engine and get a different axle ratio. Even with a bigger engine alone. I don't think you will really go any faster using 5.38 gears

 

Way to go. He will never forget that day working with his Dad.

My best memories of my dad are very similar.

 

Over Drive

 

Glad to hear that you are feeling well again and back on the 6! And I'm glad to see the F head is still in it. So I'll say again what others have already said, use it!

And buy a trailer like the one in the picture I posted last year. We haul ours all over on it. Even with the V-6 you're talking about, riding at 55+ will get old soon and no one will want to go with you.

You said you live in town and want to make it a family project. Why not turn it into a "suburb" cruiser? You know, Saturday night at the burger place? Put a seat in the back so that 4 can ride. Then put it on the trailer and take it out to the desert or up to Flagstaff for an occasional day trip. Maybe up to Grand Canyon and cruise the East Rim Drive to Desert View. We hauled one of ours up to Yellowstone N.P. last summer and had a great ride.

I lived in Phoenix, Flagstaff and Grand Canyon. Lots of great places to see in Arizona. Buy the trailer and see them all in your 6.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

P.S. Wiring? If you keep it stock, simple! Buy Walck's wiring harness. Everything just plugs together. Even with no wiring experience, it's pretty straightforward.

 

Looking for a bit of advice.

I am in the process of tear down and I have the transfer case out now and sitting on my work bench. I plan on rebuilding both the transmission and the transfer case but it may take me time to do the rebuild and when done, both will sit on a shelf for at least 6-8 months before connected back to an engine. I am limited by both time and budget.

So, how do I keep everything from rusting up on me while it is either waiting for assembly, or when done, waiting for installation?

My plan is after I get all the guts out I will get the cases cleaned and paint them with POR or get them powder coated. I plan on using Lubegard 19250 tranny assemble goo when building the Tranny and trans case, it says it has rust inhibitors, so hopefully that works.

My biggest concern is for while the gears are out of the case and awaiting assembly. Do I just slather them with gear oil and put them in a safe place?

Thanks in advance for the knowledge.

 

Agreeing generally, but cold/dry is even better. Cold air has less capacity for water vapor, so inherently drier... why "barn fresh" is so fresh

 

Just an academic point. The parts will be fine at room temperature if they are oiled and sealed in a bag.

The saturation point for water vapor drops steeply with the temperature, so cold air stays dry even if there is snow on the ground. No water vapor, no rust.

 

As I have said before this is all new to me. I am learning a lot from this project thanks to people like all of you who are willing to share what they know. When I drained the oil from the transfer case it smelled awful and was as black as night.

When I look inside the case, I can see some residue on the gears, not sure what it is yet, but what is the best way to clean them? Would the vinegar work for that as well?

Thank you to all who have answered, I am hitting up the auto parts store on the way home from work to see if they stock some of this stuff.

 

Get some spray on brake cleaner, rags and a small stainless brush. Spray, scrub, wipe. Oil them up once they are clean. Get some appropriate size ziplock bags, label the bags with an indelible marker, and store the parts with all their snap rings, pins, bolts, etc. in the bag.

 

When I changed all the fluids in mine I ran into the same thing. I don't think it was actual gear oil... Whatever it was, I think it was original. Very thick and smelly. Like some sort of animal byproduct.

 

The old stand-by is solvent, aka mineral spirits or paint thinner. This will take off the old grease and oil and be fairly safe from fumes and fire. Wear some disposable rubber gloves. Get a plastic dish pan and pour out 1/2" or so of solvent and wash the parts using an old paint brush or a parts cleaning brush. Dry the parts with clean rags, label, and store in plastic in a dry place. If you wipe off your parts and dunk them in solvent again, air-drying will leave an oily film on the parts. Or you can polish them dry, admire, and then spray with your choice of light oil before packaging. That should be plenty to stop rust, if you store them indoors where it's dry.

IMO you need not be obsessed with removing any brown varnish from the parts. The gears and bearings will be brightly polished where they contact, and discoloration on the gear surfaces does not matter.

 

I've used mineral spirits as described, worked well... I've also used diesel. Worked well too. Only done the diesel experiment outdoors.

 

Thanks for all the info guys, really appreciate it.

Got the parking break hub off yesterday, had a delay because I had to go buy a hub puller. Seems every day, or every other day, I am going to buy new tools to do this project (not that I am complaining).

However, I wish I took more “before” pictures because sometimes I just get in the groove and don’t think about it. In this instance, my father told me that the parking break didn’t work and he didn’t know why. When I got it open, the mechanical mechanism was clogged with oil, grease, and mud dried so hard it was almost like cement! I literally had to use a chisel and hammer to break it up and remove the mess.

But, have to share, this is a very satisfying project. It is nice to go out after typing on a keyboard all day and get dirty for an hour or so and see that I got something done. Every step forward I take, I can see the destination.

 

Glad to hear you are making progress. It can be very satisfying to work on this stuff, especially if a person is office bound.
On protecting parts from rust after it's been cleaned up, you can spray it down with a protectant like WD-40 thoroughly and then cover with a plastic wrap. Personally I use Rustlick 505 as the protectant since it's formulated to cut through moisture and protect parts. It's what we've used for years on freshly machined parts.

 

Are the pics from post 20 not working? Or is it just me?