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Boxing the frame. What gauge steel?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Sgt_jarhead, Dec 1, 2015.

  1. Dec 1, 2015
    Sgt_jarhead

    Sgt_jarhead Sponsor

    Fallbrook, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Messages:
    183
    Doing an engine conversion on my '42 MB. Adding power steering to the previous saginaw conversion. Had to replace the front frame horns and need to box them in to support the Advanced Adapters steering box mount. I have some 1/8" x 6" flat steel laying around. Will that work? Not thick enough? Thicker than I need?

    Also, on the same note, can I use the above to weld over the factory boxing at the motor mounts? The factory boxing just seems so thin. I have removed the factory mounts and am using the Advanced Adapters mounts for my 4.3L V6.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Dec 1, 2015
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2006
    Messages:
    1,652
    If you have it laying around , use it.
     
  3. Dec 1, 2015
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
    Messages:
    361
    1/8" plate is exactly what I am using to box my frame:)
     
  4. Dec 1, 2015
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784
    1/8" anywhere else is fine except at the steering gear mount...........I personally would use at least 3/16-1/4" on that side to support the AA mount and steering gear........how did you tie in your new frame horns to the existing chassis and front cross member? You can't be too strong in that area especially with the new power steering gear and perhaps a winch in your future.
     
  5. Dec 1, 2015
    Warloch

    Warloch Did you say Flattie??? Staff Member

    Falcon, CO
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2003
    Messages:
    5,469
    I use 1/8" on the pass side and 3/16" driver side with a power Saginaw box. I fit mine inside the C on the frame and weld them there, not on the edge. I also normally use McRuff's mounts, and they are solid vs the hollow ones from AA.
     
  6. Dec 1, 2015
    Sgt_jarhead

    Sgt_jarhead Sponsor

    Fallbrook, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Messages:
    183
    Haven't cut the old frame horns yet. The PO did a manual Saginaw conversion back in 78. They welded in a piece of 1/2" plate on the inside driver side horn, but it's tilted (not plumb) and I don't like the fact one of the mounting bolts runs through the spring hanger. I plan on using a flaming river tilt column and all new steering linkage anyway. I also have some small 1/8" long stress fractures on either side of the front crosmember on the top of the passenger side frame horn. I plan on removing the crossmember completely and replacing it with some 2x3x 3/16 square tubing. I planned on cutting the horns just forward of the existing shock mounts and welding the new section on, with 3/16" fishplates on both sides before finishing the box.

    I hope my description makes sense. I will try to post pictures but my work schedule has kept me kind of busy.
     
  7. Dec 1, 2015
    Sgt_jarhead

    Sgt_jarhead Sponsor

    Fallbrook, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Messages:
    183
  8. Dec 1, 2015
    Sgt_jarhead

    Sgt_jarhead Sponsor

    Fallbrook, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Messages:
    183
  9. Dec 1, 2015
    Sgt_jarhead

    Sgt_jarhead Sponsor

    Fallbrook, CA
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2015
    Messages:
    183
    If I am way off base with my plan, please let me know
     
  10. Dec 1, 2015
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2012
    Messages:
    3,784

    Is that your only issue with the frame horns up front........( drivers side ) and that slanted plate? If so before I would cut those horns off I would just rebuild that one on the drivers side........a little surgery with a cut off wheel and then build it back , would be easier than starting over..............

    On your steering the placement of the steering gear is dependent on several factors and here is just a few: 1) type of front axle and steering components, like pittman arm,crossover tie rod and drag link 2) Angle of the input shaft in the box should be in concert with your new column's exit out of the firewall including dodging any obstacles in the path between the two points. 3) Prepping the frame rail is Ok to do now, but the steering gear placement should remain fluid for now , as you go through the trail & error process of getting all of the other components mentioned above to fit and work together nicely............No one size fits all here! It's a process of moving things around. And your cross member can be replaced or just a hole bored in it will get you similar results.

    There is a complete section here in the forums on Power steering Saginaw gear placements...........check it out, It might help you wade through all of the little things you need to pay attention to as you do yours.
     
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