Power Lock noise?

In your first post you mentioned a "ratcheting" sound coming from the rear. Maybe you don't have a Powerlock at all. A lunchbox locker (Lockright, Powertrax etc.) will make a ratcheting sound when making a slow turn. Pull the diff cover and confirm what kind of diff you actaully have in there.

 

Jacked it up and put it on stands this evening. Pulled the RR wheel, where the most noticeable movement was. Removed the drum and and there is, indeed some bearing movement. As I was spinning the axle shaft, it just felt bad. Like rough and loose and sloppy. So, i pulled the rear cover. No Power Lock. Nope. Trac-Lok I do believe. And boat loads of movement in the cross shaft. I'm feeling that more than anything, So, I think I'm in need of a complete overhaul at this point.

So, outside on the pile, under the tarp, I have another 30 spline, open, flanged 44 with 4.88s. Thinking of just going over this one, since it's already out and easier to service. Plan will likely be to install a Lock Right ( if I can't find a Series 4 Power Lock for it), new bearings and seals and 11" brakes. I think I'd prefer the Power Lock but, the JEEP never sees snow (because of the salt) so, I think I'd be OK with Lock Right, if I have to go that route. And I should be able to do it all myself. With the Power Lock, I would need to farm out the installation. I'm ok with that if that means I can have the P-Lock.

I know I could have the current rear gone over but, I'm not really crazy about trak-loks. Not sure what kind of damage or wear has been done to the spiders.... or the case, for that matter.

I have a power lock that will eventually find it's way into the front model 27 axle.

I know it's a can of worms around here but, feel free to offer your thoughts and advice. Keep in mind that I am very budget minded (read: PA Dutch cheap skate who doesn't make a ton of money and still has a kid at home) and that the JEEP really doesn't get driven that much, at this point, so the quirks of Lock Right may not be big issue. I'd sort of like to have first hand experience with one anyhow. And, when it's wheeled, I want to be able to go places. And the wallet says Lock Right as well.

I won't be hitting hard rock stuff every weekend or anything. When I'm back in the game, it might get wheeled hard a couple-three times a year. In all reality, it's mostly street driven at this point. I like the name,.... Power Lock. And they are rebuildable, though, I doubt I'll wear either one out in my life time of limited JEEP miles. For these reasons, I'd prefer the power lock.

 

I think your thinking is good on the extra rear axle assembly. Take the spare apart and go through/do what it needs and install it. That way the Jeep is still movable as needed and then you can do it as time/funds permit and you will know exactly what you have. It sounds like you really want a Powerlock though so in all honesty I'd hold out for one, even if it takes a bit longer to get there. Lock-Rites are great, I have them front and rear in my '59-5, but they do have handling quirks, even on just wet pavement that you need to be aware of. My Jeep sees more trail use than street use though so that's why I went with the Lock-Rites. If it saw more street time I probably would have gone a different direction. I currently have a pair of Dana 44's with ARB's waiting in the wings to go in...
If you decide to go with a Lock-Rite style locker, might also look into the Aussie Locker. Well made and I've seen them for less money than the Lock-Rite. I'd suggest staying away from the Ez-Locker. Back in the day I saw many, many failures of them. Excessive wear causing it usually.

 

I had thought the PowerLock was not offered with the flanged axles, so a TracLock is what I would expect. Thus a '71 would come with a factory TracLock. I could be wrong though - Jim has commented on this thread and I'd expect him to catch that. Certainly a '72 only came with a TracLock.

 

Jeep went to 30 spline D44 rears as early as 1969 on the Renegades all CJ's had them by mid 1970 model year.
With the changeover to 30 spline rear axle shafts Jeep no longer provided Powr Lok differentials as an option.
30 spline Powr Loks for Jeeps never existed from the factory.
That is probably the main reason why the 30 spline D44 Powr Loks are so scarce.
Original 30 spline Powr Lok for D44 must be sourced from GM pickups with D44 or else from IH vehicles.
The early 30 spline units (early 1960's) have a slightly different side gear / cup arrangement than later D44 30 spline units.
The side gears and cups will interchange as a complete set from an early unit to late unit / vice versa.

 

Nick, thanks for the input and alternatives to the Lock Right. Still not sure which way I'm gonna go here. Some options are revealing themselves so, it is YTBD.

Tim, good point. Honestly. I just assumed it was a Power Lock in there since I associate so many of the changes with the '72 model year. Very possible that the Power Lock was not available, from the factory, for the 30 spline. I am aware that a 19 spline can be converted, by using 30 spline side gears.

I would like to know the actual available option, for a limited slip in the 30 spline Dana 44 prior to '72. If anyone has that info, please chime in. For some reason, I think I recall the Power Lock being listed for '71 but, I could be imagining it.

I'd like to put the JEEP back together and try to get another 50-100 miles out of it, the way it is. Just back and forth to work and other short trips, for the rest of the summer. I know it's wrong and probably won't do it for fear of doing more and more damage to whatever is still good in there. I'm guessing the R&P and shafts are still good. I'd hate to destroy the housing or a shaft.

Guess I'll start looking into bearing numbers and seals and stuff. See if I have any of it "in stock."

 

speaking of side gears and whatnot, I have read that the earlier power locks knock off, not dana, side gears and assorted parts did not really interchange between dana power lock cases and other units. If you are looking to buy used and rebuild, this may or may not be a factor. this may or may also be fact, as i read it somewhere. Nick or Oldtime or others could probably attest to the validity of this information.

 

Thank you Old-time. Clears that right up. Very good to know. And where to source a true, factory 30 spline Power Lock. You guys are the greatest. I love it here.

So, the GM Dana 44 would have been a front axle? Closed knuckle? And the IH Dana 44.........any IH, front or rear? And all of this from the early 70's I presume?

 

I don't really know anything about aftermarket parts.
Nor do I really care to know Ha Ha Ha !
When I mentioned the difference in D44 Powr Lok side gears I am referring only to the side gear cup design.
In the early 1960's design the 30 spline side gear cups were manufactured as a 2 piece arrangement. (2 pieces per side)
By the late 1960's the 30 spline side gear cups became a single integral piece. (single piece cup for each side)

Yes if one has the correct 30 spline side gears a 19 spline Powr Lok can be converted to become a 30 spline unit.
They would be virtually identical except that the original 30 spline cases require the large bore carrier bearing.
In other words the D44 / 30 spline unit has larger and thicker diameter bearing journals than the 19 spline unit.

 

30 spline flanged rear axles were used in 800A and 800B IH Scouts in the late 60s/early 70s.
And IH used the Power Lok in those axles.
Being an IH Scout dealer as well as Jeep dealer, we had a good source from IH the stuff that Jeep never had/used or was factory.

I've also heard about Sunbeam and or Datsun 60s roadsters using the D44 with 30 spline axles.

 

Finances and convenience, along with my own curiosity are now swaying me toward the Lock Right. I believe the P/N 2410 is what I would need. On eBay, they run from around 250 to 350 bucks. How can there be such a wide range of pricing. National Drivetrain, i think it was has them for like 247. Summit is just over 300. Is there some difference in quality somehow? Can't imagine this is the case.

Also chasing down a semi local Scout Dana 44 w/ a "factory limited slip." From a 1975 Scout. Should be a Power Lock. It'll need gone over I'm sure. Need to confirm if it's a series 3 or 4.

As far as the spare axle I mentioned earlier, should I check the gear pattern before doing anything else? Just to check it.

How should I inspect the carrier bearings?

If the carrier bearings need replaced, do the gears need to be reset?

It would be great if I could just toss a Lock Right and axle bearings in the spare axle and get rolling again. My luck never seems to go that way though but......

 

Nope..
All Scout IIs should be a Trac Lok.
Only the earlier Scouts would have a Power Lok.

 

Doh! Yup. Reread your info above.

No matter, for me, anyhow. Seller returned my call and said the axle was a 3.54 ratio.

The real kicker of this whole thing is that the T18 install is now secondary to fixing/replacing the rear axle. If we weren't planning to move in the spring, I'd be tempted to pull the body off this thing and do a major re-do.

 

Herd of another Scout chassis a few days back. Going to look at it tomorrow and see what I find. The owners son told me about it. he thinks it's a 44 rear and a 27A front. Not sure of the year. He thinks it's a mid to late 60's with a 4 banger in it. Should be the right series 4 carrier if it is indeed a 30 spline and not a 19. We shall see. Still kickin' around a Lock Right.

 

would think it would be a 19 spline being that old but i don't know scouts very well

 

So whats a "herd of scouts" called? a wrangle?

 

Doh! I hate when I do that. Sorry. Heard.......heard.

I'm guessing 19 spline also but, I'll go have a look-see.

 

Been reading about the Power Trax No Slip. Cost about twice that of the Lock Right. Supposed to be just as effective and much quieter than the Lock Right.

Found a Lock Right for like 250 and change. No purchase yet. Still mulling it all over. Still questioning the wide range of pricing for the same unit. Wondering about differences in quality from when it was Power Trax vs. Richmond Gear, as it is now.

250 and change with free shipping sounds great compared to others that want 350-375. I've seen them as high as 400+. At 250,I could potentially get out of this for 350 bucks, with new axle bearings. I'll be scouring the garage and storage unit for things I am ready to part with in order to fund this. Too much other crap going on right now to just pull the trigger. Taxes, homeowners ins., repairs and tires to kid's car, etc., etc. You know the drill.

Something is going to happen in the next week or two though. Hang on. Ole' Pokey's getting ready to pull outta the gate.

 

Don