Newbie here please help me identify my stuff

I did the best I could with the fading light coleman Can anyone help decipher the tag?




The dipstick "stopper" slides around on the stick what's the oil capacity? I need drain refill and figure out the correct depth of the stick?








Clearly it's an elderbrock is there a way to tell the CFM without tearing it apart? Is this to much carb for the motor?




Performer black v6 any good? What's the funky rubber plug right above v6? should I save this manifold or go back to stock? I want it easy to tune!





HEI? remember i'm new





Did it come stock power steering from the factory?



Can you tell if this is an 18 or 20 t-case "I know the photo is lousy"



Flywheel looks heavy like it should be is it correct?



Should the starter fit so sloppy in the bell housing?





The brake light's and blinker's don't work shouldn't be to tough to figure out. Seems to be a solid rig overall (correct me if i'm wrong)
It has a definite rocker arm ratta tat tat after it comes up to temp but not when cold? I'll pull the valve cover when I get a chance for an inspection.
Any answers are much appreciated all feedback is welcome let me know what you think. How did I do? thank's

Here is a link to all the photos I currently have
http://s1016.photobucket.com/user/dan1lar/library/1968 cj5

 

Looks like a Dauntless V6 (225ci) with an after market intake manifold and 4 barrel carb. No HEI, you have a standard cap and rotor. But you do have a nice set of aftermarket headers and a 4 bold saginaw steering conversion. That rear bumper and tire carrier is custom and looks sweet!

 

First off, nice Jeep.. Someone here will chime in on the tag.. I'm not him haha.. The carb and manifold are interesting.. I've never seen that manifold, but that's not saying much. I think it's the wrong one and you need to dispose of it (shipping to 37137) immediately. haha.. If it runs good, leave it alone is my opinion. That is not HEI.. it's the stock dizzy.. Looks like a dana 18 case.. The 18 and 20 share the same casting but the rest is all different.. the 18 is offset output to rear and the 20 is center output to the rear. The flywheel should be heavy.. very heavy.. That is the hallmark of the dauntless.. Perfect for a jeep.. Does not rev fast but will pull like a tractor. The steering is a PO special.. Previous owner special.. A good thing is it's done right. Anyhow man, great looking jeep. .

 

Nice jeep and looks like the PO had a plan. Has a lot of the right stuff already. The intake is a performer Buick V6 made by Edelbrock. They run over $250.00. The Power steering (a plus) is not original. The gap between the starter and the bell could be ok if the bell is bolted up tight to the back of the engine. As said the dist is orig Delco points unless it has the internals changed out to the electronic. Need pic of inside dist. I did notice that you have too much free play in your clutch. The D18 or D20 is unknown. If you have the outputs, front and rear on the passenger side then very likely D18. Flywheel does look like the correct one (heavy). I would put an engine stay cable on if it were mine. All in all I think you have a fun machine there. Oh and about the carb, sorry I have no info on the CFM of that unit. Enjoy.

 

Carb is a 600 cfm unit...way too big for an engine that size.
Probably runs very rich & poor throttle response. Plus, the Edelbrock is a great carb....for a street vehicle.
Not known as a good off road carb. The float bowl design just doesn't lend itself well for bouncing around and steep angles.
I'd look for a 390 CFM Holley 4bbl, and modify it for off road use.

 

I had that carb on a 1984 blazer with a 350. It really almost killed me on several occasions. On washboard dirt roads cut into big hills with no guardrail in AZ, it would flood out and kill the engine randomly. Unexpectedly I would lose power seeding and owed brakes. Engine would be flooded and take a bit to start out in the middle of no where. Bad Bad experience for me. I replaced it with a yardsale quadrajet from a 305. Never stalled again, better milage and better power from that quadrajet carb. That carter/edelbrock went in the trash.

This is my personal experience and may or may not be your experience and might be due to operator error for all I know. I was less adept then than I am now. Now I can really screw it up!

 

After looking at your other pic's, you have a D18 transfer case. I see three shifters. Main trans, main transfer, and is the third one for OD (over-drive)? Also I mentioned clutch free-play. Too much slack in the clutch cable. Make sure you have a return spring on the throw-out control arm. This pulls the throw-out away from the pressure plate when pedal is all the way up. Extends life of bearing. Your free-play should be about 1 inch +/-. The noise you hear after warm up is probably lifter noise. When cold start, the oil is thicker and your pressure will be higher. After warm up and the oil is thinner the lifters might rattle. The oil is probably diluted with gas due large carb running the engine too rich. The dip-stick fix is simple. Push the cap down onto the shoulders and JB Weld it then cut a piece of felt to go on the underside of the stop washer to seal the top. The oil capacity is 5 quarts with new filter. HTH

 

You are 100% correct runs rich! When you say modified for off road use what exactly do I need to do to the holly?
I'm sure their is a big debate over carburetor setup. I would just like it to be simple and reliable not after big power.

 

you have a nice start
Unknown list ecj5
244192 /1968
248046 /1969
tag/sticker wasn't on left bottom of dash

 

Basic off road modification on a Holley is extended bowl vents and spring loaded needle & seats.
You'll also need to do jetting and power valve changes since you're in a higher elevation area.

 

Oops
delete please

 

WOW
I can rebuild a manual tranny, but for some reason the inside of a carb is a little intimidating for me.
Is there such a thing as a plug-and-play carburetor for this engine?

 

I think you should look for a stock intake and 2bbl carb.
You could sell your current intake and carb and probably come out money ahead.

 

It's hard to tell from your picture of the steering box, but is the mounting plate spanning from the top to bottom flange of the frame rail? It looks like it might only be attached to the top flange.
The frame horn should be fully boxed for these power steering box conversions. Check yours to see if the steering box mount flexes at all when you cycle the steering from lock to lock.

Don

 

For plug-and-play, I think Doug's suggestion of the original Rochester 2G and factory manifold comes closest.

One possibility would be a 4V-2V adapter plate and a Motorcraft 2100 carburetor. They are great off-road, get good mileage, and should have a similar throttle linkage to your Edelbrock. There's a guy on eBay that sells them ready to go - http://www.ebay.com/itm/321726147455 - if you contact hiim and tell him what you want, he should be able to put together a bolt-on solution.

Some here have had good results with the 470CFM Holley "Truck Avenger" carb - search and you'll turn up some posts. The 390 is a 4150-style carb meant for street use, and will flood out on steep up/down/side hills, and from bounces at low speed. A lot has been written about modifying the 4150-style carbs for off-road use.

The premium solution would be to ditch the carburetor altogether and install throttle body electronic fuel injection. Lots of discussion of that on the forum too. You could use your existing manifold and adapt it to a GM throttle body... pretty common conversion, and the adapters are inexpensive.

The Edelbrock is tunable, but I expect you'll need to lean it out a lot to run on a 225. It's a pretty good off-road carburetor, from what I hear, though the 600CFM means it's meant for engines of about twice the displacement of the 225. It's never going to be ideal, because that large a carburetor won't have enough vacuum to control the fuel precisely. Likely you'll have to tune it richer than optimum, in order to make it run right.

 

Here's your manifold - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/manifolds/buick/performer-v6.shtml

Says it's for the even-fire 231, not the 225. Check the casting numbers on your engine to confirm http://www.nmr.mgh.harvard.edu/~reese/BuickV6CastingNumbersandInternalSpecs.pdf

 

Yup I would agree Don, looks a little suspect on that mount.........and also that is not a 4-bolt Saginaw as someone else mentioned.............Here is a photo of 4-bolt box.

 

I'm confused is a 231 an even fire v6 and a 225 an odd fire?

Tomorrow I'm going change out the oil and take care of the loud exhaust system! Then I can drive it around without waking up the people in the next county!
Stay tuned everyone I appreciate all the feedback.