Mechanical brake light switch?

I fitted the R&P dual MC kit. Need to rig a brake light. Does anyone have a part number and photo of a mechanical switch set-up?

Thanks,

Mike

 

Put a pressure switch in line with either the front or rear brake lines.

 

I have had 2 of those inline pressure ones fail in less than a year. you need a T block with NPT threads on one side if you do that. Thats what i am running now and it works for the time being. I am sure you could make a bracket and install a switch that works with the brake arm under the toe board. That is what I am going too do when this pressure switch fails.

 

Thanks, Terry -- but I keep hearing that pressure switches are prone to failure. I am thinking mechanical switch. I had the thought of using a momentary lever switch - like the Echlin LS128 or LS130 mounted to the back of the MC access cover on the DS floor. It would open (or close) when the brake pedal goes down a bit. Chris - if this works it's about a $20 fix.

I was hoping to get other ideas before I plunged forward. Any advice is welcome.

 

Never had a pressure switch fail in 50 years.

Your FLAPS would have dozens of options for a mechanical switch. Or search Ebay.

 

I've only had one in 33 years fail

 

Over 23 years on the switch in my '62 3B. as far as I know it's the origional. The switch was bad in my Commando when I bought it. 7 years and still working. I've read about many of the new switches being junk. Brake light switch in my '53 Buick still works fine.

 

I have also had issues where it was difficult to get the air out of the switch and also the NPT connections leaking. I took a straw from a wd -40 can and used it to let the air out of th switch while filling it with brake fluid to make sure the air was out. The new master I am using did not have a fitting in the piston bore for a fluid pressure switch and all the T fittings I could find were 3 way NPT. they are not the kind of fitting I like for brake lines. The remote willwood 1" bore should work well. The new Vette setup I have now works for me lots better than the old cj5 ones.

 

Mechanical switches especially where the environment could be wet or muddy are far more prone to failure. I'm surprised that so many say these switches are prone to failure.........there is only millions of these in service!............Got to be some cheap-o switches.

I have several late 90's Peterbilt trucks.......under the kick panel on the drivers side there is a main manifold where all the air for switches gets distributed from.........there is a line of 12 electric over air 10 lb. pressure pods that light warning or switch "On" lights that come off of each circuit..........one truck many many years ago had one that went bad..........Since I had several of these trucks I bought 5 replacement switches from the dealership and threw the other 4 in the Service Truck........The part number is common for both air or hydraulics as we have both systems on-board...........15 years later there is still 4 riding in the same bin although the box labels are near worn off from all the travel!

 

The switch used on the clutch and on the old mechanical injection pumps for a Jake rake setup would be ideal. Pricey, but sturdy.

 

The quality brand for such parts has been Standard Ignition (now SMP Standard Motor Products) - here's their pressure switch: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=44652&cc=1183148&jnid=416&jpid=4

You have lots of choices in mechanical switch - but I expect there are few that are meant to operate outside the passenger cabin. Here's one from a Jeep J-truck - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=44657&cc=1183148&jnid=416&jpid=2 - but it's meant to be inside, operating off of the brake pedal arm. If you want to put a mechanical switch below the floor, I think you'll have to look around for a mechanical switch that's meant to operate outside. A quality brand pressure switch seems like a lot less trouble.

 

Thanks, lots of options available. I think I'll look for a sealed switch - as pointed out it's going to be exposed to water, mud, etc.

 

if you still want a mechanical switch, there are these at RockAuto: 1966 OLDSMOBILE DYNAMIC 7.0L 425cid V8 : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Brake Light Switch
They go under the dash. Are not usable by through the floor pedals, at least not if you want to keep them outa the environment. Although, with thought and a bit of ingenuity you should be able to come up with a workable solution.

 

I put silicon brake fluid in my Jeep, and went through three break light switches, I got a silicon proof one from Ron Francis, it lasted only one season, they replaced it free. It is still working after one season. I don't recommend silicon fluid, I used because I painted my chassis and didn't want to eat the paint off if I had a leak, which I did. They say once you put in silicon you can't change it back, so I am stuck with it, I guess.

 

I did a simple solution to get my rig on the road a while ago, and it is still working today. This thread might give you some ideas, I used a mechanical switch behind the brake pedal.

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?90859-Wiring

 

The switch used on the clutch and on the old mechanical injection pumps for a Jake rake setup would be ideal. Pricey, but sturdy..

Yoop, that's what I'm thinking of using since my brake lights go out at a light ( take trans out of gear). Worked for DDC for years and know these are bulletproof.

 

Just make sure whatever switch you use is Water Proof............Jeeps are notorious for getting wet .......Everywhere!

And as Oldrignal86 mentioned here is a Jake Brake micro-switch.............this is the one that would have been at the clutch pedal inside.........the one at the fuel pump would have been the same except a rubber boot was crimped on over the button to keep moisture out.

 

You certainly want the one with the rubber boot. Many also have a tight wound spring like stalk that will ride the clutch or pump arm. This is the type I plan to use on my 3a project. Should be a simple deal to make a bracket and let it ride on the brake linkage at some point. And yes, the can take the elements. Some of the early Chevy type lever switches I have looked at and is often used don't look like they would last long at all outside of a garage queen. As an aside, the 50 year old pressure switch in my Tux is still working!
John

 

Standard or Echlin (NAPA) are good choices. I had whatever brand from Autozone bad right out of the box. I would check it for continuity which it had, but wouldn't allow enough amperage through to light the brake lights.