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Building my 66 CJ6 to look capable of things it will never do

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by bcurtman, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. Nov 18, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
    No way is a CJ-8 (scrambler) top going to fit a CJ-6. The door openings, method of attachment, windshield angle, and wheelbase are all different. You will have to find a top specifically for a CJ-6. They are still made-a little pricey.
     
  2. Nov 18, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
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    Jan 8, 2014
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    283
  3. Nov 26, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    My engine is ready to pick up! One thing I am going to need is a couple of good rocker arms. One of mine is missing the insert in the end of it and another is just the wrong one for this engine. if anyone has a couple to sell or knows a good source, please advise!
     
  4. Nov 30, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    I think the answer is fairly clear, but I have to ask. Is it possible to bolt my 225 v-6, t-18, and dana 20 transfer all together and install it in the jeep as a package? With he bellhousing being aluminum, it seems to me that the weight of the tranny and transfer would be too much to cantilever out there. Anybody done it?
     
  5. Dec 1, 2014
    Fly Navy

    Fly Navy Member

    Emerson, IA
    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2014
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    361
    I'm using an aluminum bell to marry up my 3.8L Buick engine, T18 and D18. Aluminum bell-housings are strong. I wouldn't worry about it.
     
  6. Dec 1, 2014
    jhuey

    jhuey Michigan Jeeper!

    Indian River...
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2004
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    415
    I took advantage of the twin overhead hoists at my shop. It worked, I did have to pull the shifters, also the pick was tight on the firewall. As you can see where the balance point is, between the engine and bell housing.

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    Last edited: Dec 1, 2014
  7. Dec 1, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
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    Very cool idea. I have an air jack I can pick up the rear with, and I'm already tall with the lift and 37's on there. Thanks! I was mostly concerned with the weight of the tranny and transfer harming the bellhousing while unsupported. Looks like it works.
     
  8. Dec 1, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    Have a little progress to show. My son helps me a lot-and he is learning in the process too. He's learned enough to know that he doesn't want to be a mechanic!

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  9. Dec 1, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    I'm not sure how much a pushrod can be bent, but I had one that certainly wasn't true when I spun it, so I ordered new ones. I also ordered a new front cover. My rebuilder told me the front cover was the secret to good oil pressure on a Buick, and that if mine had wear in the oil pump area I'd never be satisfied with the oil pressure. Front cover, new oil pump, push rods, and timing indicator (not cast in on new cover) all on their way from RockAuto. Sounds like a member here is hooking me up with a rocker assy, so I may be buttoning it all up by this weekend. By the way, there is assy lube on all of those lifters-I just changed brands and one was white while the other was a dark color.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2014
  10. Dec 7, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    My pushrods showed up for the weekend but not my timing cover, so I spent most of my time cleaning and painting little parts this weekend. I did get the intake on and torque down, one rocker assembly installed and torque down, and its valve cover installed. I also got the baffle and suction tube installed on the lower end. I decided to remove the flapper valve from the heat riser, and ended up breaking the cast iron, so I'm looking for either a heat riser valve for the passenger side or another drivers side manifold with the exhaust seat cast into it. That will work right? Just run that backwards on the passenger side?
     
  11. Dec 7, 2014
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2008
    Messages:
    1,214
    You might consider buying or making a exhaust flange for the passenger exhaust manifold. That would allow you to eliminate the heat riser, and weld it to the exhaust flange.
     
  12. Dec 8, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2014
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    I can buy one? Where?
     
  13. Dec 9, 2014
    piffey263

    piffey263 Active Member

    Medford, OR
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2008
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    1,214
    They are called a two bolt exhuast flange. They come in different sizes. A Cnc shop can make one for you, look on eBay, call exhuast shops. My flaps didn't carry them as they want a year of the car. You will have to measure to see what you need first.

    I ended up making one for the drivers side, the shops that where near by me only had a 3 inch exhuast flange.
    I used 3/8 plate and drilled the holes. Welded the the exhuast tubing to it and bolted it up.
     
  14. Dec 9, 2014
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    check walkers website... they have lots of non application stuff with dim values
     
  15. Dec 9, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
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    Jan 8, 2014
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    I will check it out. If I can buy something that fits, that makes it easy. Made a little progress on the engine last night as my new front cover came in. Tonight I just have to install the new oil pump parts, and I should be ready to do a test fit to the tranny. Not long til its back in the 6.

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  16. Dec 9, 2014
    bcurtman

    bcurtman Member

    Rosebud, MO
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    Let's talk oil. I plan to run Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 in this engine...but should I use that to break it in????
     
  17. Dec 9, 2014
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    USA
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    whatever is fine, but you might want to add some high zinc content additive. The synthetic stuff is great. I have taken apart engines with 100k that had no discernible wear that the PO's had used synthetic.
     
  18. Dec 9, 2014
    PieLut

    PieLut Member

    Glendale, Arizona
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    Jul 20, 2010
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    I used Comp Cams Break in oil (high amounts of ZDDP), after the break in period I now run Valvoline VR1 (also high in ZDDP). I buy the Valvoline from Amazon, about six bucks a quart and better for our flat tappet engines.
     
  19. Dec 10, 2014
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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    I wouldn't....

    All these flat tappet engines require nothing more than 10w30 Dino juice...
    Fancy synthetic oils are better served in tight tolerance newer engines..
    You might find you have more leaks with thinner synthetic oil.

    Brad Penn, Lucas, and shell rotella are all excellent break in oils.. High amounts of zinc and good weight.

    Personally, I run a conventional high zinc oil and change it every 3k...
     
  20. Dec 10, 2014
    rejeep

    rejeep Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Rochester, NY
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