Runs terrible, idle is fine, no power and just breaks up. f-134 timing problem?

it runs at idle fine, has no power and breaks up when i rev it or give it gas, i replaced the points and did not set the gap and I'm pretty sure the distributor is out of time, what else would cause this and how do i set the gap and timing? Thanks, Geoffrey. Here's a video of it running:

 

Have you checked the distributor for wear in the bushings and worn springs inside? I just did it to my cj2a and it helped alot. My timing used to jump around a lot.

 

Did you do anything to the jeep prior to it running like this, or did it just suddenly start? I guess the first thing I would do is verify the timing is correct and that the advance weights are working in the dist.

 

I had similar issues with mine when I first got it running. Not as bad as yours seems. Originally rebuilt the carburetor with a generic kit. Since my ignition system seemed good. I rebuilt the carburetor again with a kit designed for the jeep. That made things a little better, but still had poor acceleration. So.... went up to Walcks bought a rebuilt carb, bolted it on and problem solved.

 

I have not checked the distributor for wear. I did an engine swap and put this one in, it ran good a year and a half ago. i'm pretty sure the distributor came loose and moved when i installed the engine. Around how much was your carburetor Jmoto?

 

Do your points and timing per factory specs. That is a basic skill well worth learning. FSM will explain it, or search this site.

No use even thinking about anything else until you do, and it sounds a lot like that could be the whole problem.

 

What is the correct point gap for the IAT Vaccum advance distributor? also, could someone explain how to set the gap? I dont have a FSM, i really need to get one though, i'll pick one up in june a the Kempton Willys meet.

 

I don't know what the gap for a F134 should be. However, setting the gap is easy. Pull the cap and turn the engine by hand until the fiber block on the points is at the top of one of the distributor cam lobes. Then adjust the distance between the open points to the point gap. There will be some kind of adjustment mechanism available on the points - just look at the points in the distributor and it should be obvious.

 

Depends on what distributor you have.

Autolite .020 point gap and the dwell at 42
Delco .022 point gap and the dwell at 25-34

 

I have the prestolite IAT 4405

 

From your photo the gap looks too wide, but check with a feeler gauge.

With the points heel on the cam lobe, just like in your picture, slight loosen the screw head. Then gently pry in the notch next to the screw until the point gap is .020" with a "sliding fit". Tighten the screw - then re-check the gap. Also pull some super-fine sandpaper through the points to clean them, then repeat with a clean business card or similar to clean out any grit.

See how it runs, then check the timing if you need to.

 

Your screwdriver is meant to fit in the triangular slot and notch in the points, so that you can turn the screwdriver and move the points gap open and closed. The trick is to tighten the hold-down screw so that you can move the points plate with the screwdriver, but it will stay put otherwise.

Yep, that gap is way too wide. 20-thou is about the thickness of a match cover.

Note that changing the gap changes the spark timing.

 

What kind of air filter do you have? I had a similar problem mine it would idle and run fine but when I stopped it would stumble or stall. I checked the oil bath air filter and it was full of water past the fill line.......mehh It's always something stupid.

 

It doesn't look like you changed the condenser. It can cause what you're describing.

 

Having a F134, I had some problems at the beginning. And now it works perfectly! :smash:

So avoid to modify 2 things at the same time, was my first mistake.

If it turns well at idle, good.

1 - electric problem : check the gap and clean the inside of distributor, the parts where electricity goes through, sometimes there is a deposit and it is no good.

Test a spark plug to see the work, need a 5th spark plug to see what happens increasing slowly the power.
If no spark, mystery.

2 - it looks more like fuel do not arriving in the engine. The idle pump works, but not the power part and you must clean all filters in the carb. Check how fuel goes inside and outside the carb.

3 - I am not a spécialist, and you have many around you. You can change the electric parts like condenser etc.. and spark plugs, but IMO it is not a big problem. My engine works now perfectly after just some work on it.

 

"So avoid to modify 2 things at the same time, was my first mistake."

So true!

 

Your point gap is HUGE. That alone will make it run just as you describe. Close up that gap some (to spec) and it should make a world of difference.