R&P conversion questions

I installed the R&P dual M/C on my 51 CJ3A. It has axles from a 74 CJ5 (D30 and D44). The 74 had a proportioning valve although it has 11x2 drum brakes.
1) Do I need to keep the valve?
2) Where should the stop lite switch be plumbed in?
3) Is the plumbing as straight forward as it seems? One line to rear brake hose then split to each wheel cylinder and one line to front tee fitting and then to the front bake hoses?
4) The front brake hoses i bought did not have copper washers with them, are the washers needed between the hose and wheel cylinder?
Thanks!!!

 

1).It was there from the factory, can't hurt to keep it. 2). The stop light switch should be plumbed in using the 3 way tee included in the kit, plumb it in somewhere where the existing wires will still reach. 3) Yes. 4) Yes

 

The valve is in pretty bad shape and I can't seem to locate one. Wagner 106-4 is stamped into it but it doesn't cross to anything. I would like to leave it out if possible. I didn't think the valve was required on drum/ drum brakes. Was it one of those quirky things on the 70-75 CJs?

 

I did a dual MC swap as well. I have no proportioning valve, but I used an adjustable brake bias valve in the line going to the rear. Summit and Speedway both carry them, about $25 if I remember right. I have 11x2 on all 4 corners and the rears wanted to lock before the fronts. The valve solved it.

 

I did a dual master cylinder swap years ago with 11" brakes front and rear, no proportioning valve, 32" tires, no issues, worked great. The '70 CJ5 with the dual master cylinder from the factory does not have a valve.

 

I used herms dual master cylinder kit and r&p disc brake conversion front and rear. When I did mine I used a mc that was specific for disc brakes. Then I got a proportion valve off a vehicle with four wheel disc, I used a jeep Cherokee one. My setup works great.

 

OK I decided to leave the valve out. Going to start plumbing it in today. Will post the results. Thanks all.