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Carter Carb overflowing engine stall

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 641Workmaster, Jan 23, 2014.

  1. Jan 23, 2014
    641Workmaster

    641Workmaster New Member

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    Oct 30, 2013
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    I rebuilt an old 1959 CJ5 F134 engine and noticed fuel dripping out the bottom of the carb on initial startup but then it quit for about a 1/2 hour of run time. Now that we're yard driving it(1hr. run time), I noticed it is pouring out quite steady again. I revved up the speed in the yard and when I backed off the throttle the engine stumbles and wants to die unless I keep revving it. Is this the result of the leak. I know that the needle is not seating either from debris or needing a rebuild. I also put a new mechanical pump on it and wonder if it's creating too much pressure.

    Is there a decent rebuild kit with the proper orifice needle that would correct the overflow?
     
  2. Jan 23, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Welcome.

    Gotta get the right kit, to get the correct size float-needle valve orifice for a Jeep application. Generic kits may not have it.

    To manage rough territory, it is smaller, therefore takes less force to close it. Also different needles were used (hard tip, or soft tip and spring-loaded types for off-road), and the float settings are different for each. Others have better info than I but it has been discussed on this site before. Try search.

    Also, a fuel pressure regulator set to about 2.5 or 3 psi can help.

    Check for crud, or a leaky float, too.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2014
    641Workmaster

    641Workmaster New Member

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    Needle/float issues aside, is the engine stall a part of this? I'm thinking too much fuel fouled a plug? or is it a starvation issue?
     
  4. Jan 23, 2014
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Dumping that much fuel will cause the engine to stall, especially at idle or low rpm.
    Fix the carb issue, then see if your plugs are fuel fouled.
     
  5. Jan 24, 2014
    flatyfreek

    flatyfreek Member

    Hillsburrito, OR
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    Dec 17, 2013
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    THIS is why it's flooding. Clean your carb and put an in-line filter on it.
     
  6. Jan 24, 2014
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
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    Must be something in the air,I rebuilt the fuel pump on my '59 f head and had the same problem,had just rebuilt the carb with new needle valve and it would flood right out real quick,finally after much frustration put a fuel regulator on set it to 1.5 lbs. and all is cool,have been plowing snow all winter with no problems.I know it shouldn't need it,but it works.If you haven't opened the carb it could be dirt in the needle seat or the float has a hole in it also,to check the float take it out and put it in hot water and look for bubbles......good luck Jim
     
  7. Jan 24, 2014
    641Workmaster

    641Workmaster New Member

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    Any particular fuel pressure regulator I should be looking for? I already have a new fuel filter installed. Been to cold to check the carb yet. I may even have a needle/seat kit from my Carter W1 out of my old Chevy trucks. According to the vendor listings they seem to cover many Carter models with one kit.
     
  8. Jan 24, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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  9. Jan 25, 2014
    dozerjim

    dozerjim Member

    western New York
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    I can't remember the manufactuer it was one off the shelf at NAPA for about $30,...Hal at Classicpreservation has rebuild kits that are resistent to the ethanol in todays gas....
     
  10. Jan 25, 2014
    wheelie

    wheelie beeg dummy 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

    York, PA
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    Not sure what a good brand regulator would be but, I will say this. Don't buy the cheap-o unit at the local store. I bought one, I think it was one of those Purolator dial types. Went wheeling and it was fine. Got on the road to come home and the JEEP died. Scratched my head for a few minutes, alongside the road, with the hood up. I thought "What did I do to this thing last?" Found I wasn't getting fuel, removed the cheapo regulator, the JEEP fired right up and off I went.


    Just my experience but, next time I'll go a better quality unit. Maybe something from the Summit catalog if they dial down to low enough pressures.
     
  11. Jan 26, 2014
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    You need a filter in front of the regulator.

    And one in front of the fuel pump.
     
  12. Jan 26, 2014
    kamel

    kamel Senior Curmudgeon

    Erlanger, Kentucky
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    This topic has been covered about once a quarter for years.

    You can fool around with pressure regulators, expensive filters, and multiple rebuild kits, and even Solex carburetors. But if you do, just keep in mind that Jeep didn't have any of that stuff on the engines from the factory, and they logged millions of miles without them.....

    When you finally get to the point where you just want to fix the problem once and for all then all you need are two simple things..

    Get the "el cheapo" in line filter at your local auto parts store and install it. Personally I like the kinda clear ones so that I can see the gunk as it accumulates and can guess a good time to renew it.

    Secondly, get a carburetor kit from www.thecarburetorshop.com. It aint cheap, but it'll work just fine.

    Install that kit per the instructions and the problem will be solved. Key amongst the instructions is the setting for the metering rod and the float level. I usually adjust the float level just a tiny bit wider (float stops gasoline flow sooner) than is called for in the specs. Don't know if that really helps at all, but it makes me feel better to do that...

    good luck

    Once in a while one can find a good kit elsewhere, but it is hit or miss (and NEVER at a store or Jeep parts vendor), so the easiest and quickest way is to go to the carburetor shop and "git 'er done".
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2014
  13. Jan 26, 2014
    641Workmaster

    641Workmaster New Member

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    Thanks for all the advice. I finally got around to looking at it today. There was old rubber fuel line crud making the needle stay open. Otherwise it looked and seemed to function fine. I adjusted the float per the manual and put it back together for now. I now I have a filter and regulator set up on it. I used it for just a littler bit and it wasn't leaking and ran ok.

    I did notice that it doesn't want to idle down. That could be because the spring tension on the throttle return is past its prime. Although it seems odd that it idles higher now since I didn't mess with the throttle linkage, just the choke. Perhaps it was choked from all the fuel before? I'm not a mechanic but it sounds convincing to me.
     
  14. Jan 26, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    "I did notice that it doesn't want to idle down. That could be because the spring tension on the throttle return is past its prime."

    Either its hitting the stop screw or not. Idle can be adjusted down at the screw if it is.

    And the choke has a linkage to the throttle plate to hold a high idle when the choke is on. If you changed that, check it again.
     
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