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1972 CJ-5 Almost Restoration

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by pritchaj2000, Jul 16, 2010.

  1. Apr 3, 2013
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

    exploring the...
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    Feb 21, 2009
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    i run 2.5 springs with shims and a 1/2 spacer at the crossmember without any trouble
     
  2. Apr 4, 2013
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    Be sure to get steel ones that the center pin for the leaf pack bolts through, not the ones where the head just sets in the shim.
     
  3. Apr 5, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    Jun 10, 2007
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    Guess I have some reading up to do this weekend on shims and angles. :?

    Off to the search engine....
     
  4. Apr 15, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
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    Spent some time under the Jeep this weekend and took a bubble level to the rear drive shaft. The rear shaft sits at 29.5* to the frame - forgot to take one from the yokes. Assuming the yokes are at 0* to the frame this seems like a very steep angle for a 2.5in lift. I do have aftermarket shackles, but I can't imagin them being more that 1/2in longer. Giving an effective 3in lift.

    I know this angle is far to steep - when I installed the u-joints I had to spin the shaft to access the zirt to pump in greas. As I was spinning the shaft I kept feeling some resistance at the same point in the rotation. Started to worry that I had a problem with the ring and pinion. Then I noticed that the zirt fitting had snaped off. Replaced it and started the process all over - guess I don't learn to fast. Seems the zert was hitting the side of the yoke. :shock:

    Any recommendations as to what angle my rear prop shaft should be at. I found a couple threads that indicate I should be around 19*. That would indicate a 10.5* shim. That seems like a lot. Any thoughts?
     
  5. Apr 16, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    I think your math might be off a little re: the castor shims. A 10* change at the axle tube would yield quite a bit of upward movement out at the end of the pinion. It might be that you would only need 4 - 6* shims, maybe not even that much. You could support the frame and loosen or pull the u-bolts then rotate the pinion up to a better angle and see if you can figure the degree from there. If you can rotate the pinion up and still have the rear of the spring pad touching the spring, you can measure the gap at the front of the pad, between the spring and the pad. That will give you something to go on. McGruff, on this site makes steel shims. If you could give him that measurement he could probably make you whatever you need. Just a thought. By the way, that seems like a lot more than a 2.5" lift. At one time I ran a 4" lift with 1" drop at the crossmember and didn't have any binding on the rear shaft.
     
  6. Apr 16, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
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    191
    I agree it seems a little high, and frankly higher than I was intending. The springs are Skyjacker J32RS - that should provide a 2" to 2.5" lift. I also have aftermarket shackles. Don't remember the exact measurement but I seem to remember them being about 1/2" longer to the bolt hole centers.

    The jeep is still light in the rear - no gas no role bar. But even after settling when the suspension unloads the current mesurments will still be present. So I need to fix this.... I'm also starting to wory about the steering bar angle to the pitman arm. You can look back a couple posts to see the suspension from the front and the angle of the bars.

    Anyone have a formula, or previous experience with a similar spring kit? What did your prop shaft degree out to?
     
  7. Apr 16, 2013
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2012
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    Steering: Looking at the pics, I'd just put a good quality American made drop pitman arm on it.

    Driveshaft: I'd get a double cardan yoke for the T-case, cut the spring perches off and then point the pinion just a degree or two below the transfer case (put a bit of load in the Jeep cargo area to simulate spare tire/kids/dog/etc.) cut down a front XJ cherokee shaft to fit the back, or spend the bigger bucks and have a really nice custom shaft made.
    Not a big fan of shims with a lot of taper from front to back, as the axle then is working against the spring pin more, as the u-bolts tend to have a downward clamping force that wants to slide toward the thin side of the shim. It's a bit of a pain to do so, but I think you'll be happier cutting those little perches off and telling them where to be rather than using shims.
     
  8. Apr 16, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    :iagree: Additionally, it might be better to fully assemble the Jeep and then look at the angle of the driveshaft. It won't make it any more difficult if you decide to redo the spring perches and will give you a more realistic view of the bigger picture. If you are hanging a spare tire on the back you should have that installed too. That way you are not guessing about how much weight you are going to be adding.
     
  9. Apr 16, 2013
    Stout

    Stout Member

    Quakertown, PA
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    Nov 1, 2010
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    958
    Man that is a sweet paint job and the color is very nice.
     
  10. Apr 16, 2013
    58 willys

    58 willys Sponsor

    Millsboro, Delaware
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    Jul 2, 2010
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    945
    Beautiful job Al but you can't wait to finish :driving:
     
  11. Apr 22, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2007
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    Thanks Stout. But I'll remind everyone that when you get up close you can see al the imperfections... But I'm happy as h311 with the way it turned out.
    Thanks Willys, and yes it's killing me to be so close but so far away. Want to get it finished so I can enjoy the summer.
     
  12. Apr 22, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    My plan - or at least my approach has been to start getting all the bits on and see if it settles. The only think of any substance missing at the moment are seats, role bar, windshield and fuel. I have the spare hanging on the back. The missing items cant be more than 150 lb - 250 lb and my skinny a## is not going to add much additional weight. So far the springs have not settled much, but I'v not moved the jeep since building it up ether. So some additional settling may occur when we can move it around. To be honest I'm hopping to get to more of the 2" lift and not need to make the recommendations mentioned.

    I did take a couple of measurements over the weekend. The after market shackles have the same measurement as the set I puled off the jeep - 3 3/4 in from bolt center to bolt center.

    The measurement from spring to frame just behind the rear axle is 12 1/2 in. The measurement from spring to frame just in front of the front axle is 11 1/4 in. Any one have measurements for stock height. Or there 2 1/2 in lift?

    I don't have the stickers that were on the springs when I got them, but I managed to find a photo with a product number for the rear spring. Skyjacker J32RS. Comes up as a 2 to 2.5 in rear spring. So the stickers is what I ordered. Wonder if they had a labeling mix up and put them on 4 in springs?
     
  13. May 23, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    191
    Feel like I'v been neglecting this thread - luckily I'v not been neglecting the Jeep. Some quick updates as me move ever closer to finishing...

    The brakes are finally complete. Although they will need a little adjustment once I can role it around a little.

    Blasted, painted and reinstalled the glass in the windshield. Installing the glass was not as hard as I thought it would be. Tried using the string method but it just kept falling out of the gasket so I gave up and went with the press it in method. Took the better part of an hour to get is in and get the 2 part gasket together. But it's in and I'm a happy man.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If I remember correctly the original install of the gasket had the seam meeting at the bottom of the windshield, leaving a nice little rust spot on the frame. When I reinstalled it I put the seam of the outer seal at the top and the seam of the inner seal at the bottom. Thinking this may lower the amount of water seeping past the seal and growing rust. Well see of it helps..

    When I was blasting the windshield frame and wiper motor cover I found a nice little remnant of an owner long past. It would have been cooler if it was from 1972, but it's a bit of history that I'll try to preserve for a little wile. I had no idea it was under the paint until the blasting started to revile it, taking a little of it off. Once I spotted it I stopped blasting and got out the sand paper to give it more of a "weathered" look. Then shot a couple of coats of clear over it to try to preserve it for a little wile.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Fender flairs, steering wheel and dash are on the to do list this weekend. Lets see of my ambitious plans work out.

    You can see all the pics here
     
  14. May 30, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    Ever further forward. The dash is painted and installed and the under dash wiring is starting to go in, and the gauges are hung. It's getting close!

    Dash Painted with only one small run
    [​IMG]

    Gauges In
    [​IMG]

    I found a correct NOS Oil Pressure gauge so thats covered. Also picked up an Amperes gauge to replace the original. It's a +/- 50 so not exactly the same as my old one but it fits the bill. Not sure if it's a NOS unit or a new "reproduction" but I can make out the Stuart Warner on the face so for the moment I'll assume it's a quality item.

    Still on the fence about hooking it up or swapping it out with a volt gauge. But if I do use it, I'll run an isolated harness with a fusible link to the gauge.

    Rats Nest
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    Also picked up a fuel fill hose and vent hose. The hoses came from MTS and look to be of good quality. I was able to salvage my old vent connecting bolt and it looks to fit like a glove. If I understood correctly from old searching finding the vent hose was not possible for a wile. So this may be a good thing for the intermediate crowed as they seem to have a full line up including some of the metal parts.

    Had to do some trimming on the tub to get the hoses to clear. And cut open some fuel line to wrap the tub edge and protect the new hoses.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. May 30, 2013
    Posimoto

    Posimoto Hopeless JEEP Addict

    Minden, Nevada
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    You are really getting close now. Looks fantastic.
     
  16. May 30, 2013
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Dec 16, 2006
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    1,652
    Just to let you know, you are doing a fantastic job. The Jeep is turning out beautiful.
     
  17. May 30, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    Thanks Posimoto!

    I can almost smell the half burnt gas. :D
     
  18. May 30, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    Thanks Rusty!

    Lets just hope it runs as well as it looks. 8)
     
  19. May 30, 2013
    Mike C

    Mike C Member

    Austin, TX
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    Feb 19, 2007
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    Beautiful jeep! You should be super proud. Look forward to the update when you get to drive it around the first time!
     
  20. May 31, 2013
    pritchaj2000

    pritchaj2000 Member

    Highlands, NJ
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    Thanks Mike!

    Im looking forward to that to. So close, but so far... I'm expecting that the shake down process will take some time.
     
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