Stands and Lugs

So it turns out that the impact wrench I was looking at probably won't be strong enough to bust the lugs off the Tux-in-a-barn. That means I'm going to have to try to find a lug wrench that'll work without rounding out the lugs, or bothering dad by not using his (probably metric) worn-out lug wrench.

That also means I'll have to have the Tux-in-a-barn at least partially down, which I'm not too sure I like doing considering I was sweating nails and bullets just getting it up.

Is it safe to bust lug nuts off with only one wheel on the ground at a time? Or with only one axle (as in fronts or rears)? Or am I stuck having to lower the whole thing back all the way down?

 

You do remember the drivers side is usually left hand thread right?

 

didn't we just have this conversation about lh/rh

 

I'm a little more concerned about safety and getting them off, than the thread direction.

 

I would start with a six-point 'impact' socket. $5 spent you will never regret. And a can of PB blaster, the day(s) before.

A dewalt electric impact tool will do most lug nuts. And you wouldn't need to let the vehicle down.

 

spray em down good with some pb blaster for a day or two before you try breaking them. it would be best to have it on all fours when busting them loose. Also heating them up with a torch might help too. I cant see them being that bad to get off if they were tightened correctly to begin with.

 

And then what? I don't have compressed air or power in the barn.

 

Okay then, an 18" breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe over it.

Then hit it sharp on the far end with a soft mallet.

 

That sounds a bit more like it. /nod

IIRC they were put on back in the days when you didn't bother with a torque check. You just tightened them down as tight as your wrench would go. So I have no real idea how tight they are.

 

that will either get them off or break them off
try the pb blaster you will be amazed. also old rusty nuts get rust and crud in the threads when taking them off so if they start gettin tight run them back down and spray the thread again to clean them if you take your time they will come off.

 

So which PB Blaster- the "penetrating oil" or "penetrating catalyst"? Or are they both the same thing?

 

'that will either get them off or break them off"

True that. Don't bust the lugs off, it's not worth it. Try the cheater alone at first, and use quick impact blows more than gorilla torque.

Sometimes going in reverse (tighter) a little teeny bit will work to start things.

 

I have used a star wrench (correct size please) with one end on the lugs and the other end of the same straight bar resting on a jackstand at the same height and using a long (3foot or so) pipe around one of the other two. And then standing on the end of the pipe, which really only works if you can balance against the side of the vehicle. This is after the yahoos at the tireshop torqued the bejeesus out of the lugs. They don't need to be that tight, Fellas! I tell them the vehicle is for a woman, so torque them to what she can get off and no more.

 

i think they are the same.

 

I purchased this lug wrench at Discount Tire a few years ago and have found it to be very effective with over torqued lug nuts. The service advisor laughed when I asked if he thought it was any good. He said try it and if you don't like it bring it back. I didn't take it back. http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Autom...1359516474&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+lug+wrench

 

Got mine from NAPA in Monroe, Washington.

 

I have an electric 1/2" drive impact wrench that will take of rusty nuts.

 

Make sure you heat the lugs up before you start. Just take a propane torch for a couple of minutes each. I am a big believer in heat.

 

Coleman Lanterns work well... especially those old military ones that hiss really really loud.