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SHould I use this 2G or find another

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Dks62, Jan 13, 2013.

  1. Jan 13, 2013
    Dks62

    Dks62 Member

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    Just bought a '70 Jeepster to which a PO had affixed an early Jeep 1 bbl manifold and carb. Included in the sale was the "original" 2G and 2 bbl manifold. Just got to checking the numbers on the carb which are 7041110. One of the carb threads here doesn't list it as a Jeep 225 carb. Online research shows it fits a 1971 Chevy truck. Here are some pics:

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    So the big question is -- will this carb work correctly on my 225 or should I try and find a Jeep specific carb? If option 2 is the answer, does anyone have a rebuilt or rebuildable 2G for a 225. I already have the carb kit in hand.
     
  2. Jan 13, 2013
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    This is originally a 2GC carb. Auto choke (missing) accelerator pump rod (missing) fast idle cam (missing) fast idle rod (missing) choke, if you convert to manual would be simpler to install top of carb assembly that conforms to manual choke. Auto choke will need choke assembly and tube that runs down to manifold with proper connection. I would say this carb is a good candidate for parts unless you like to tinker alot.
     
  3. Jan 13, 2013
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    That sure looks like a Jeep carb to me, AFAIK Chevys never used a throttle arm like that.
     
  4. Jan 13, 2013
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
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    The 2G I found was originally from a 1961 C10 pickup. It works great on my 231 even fire. I have preheat from the exhaust with a thermostat controled air filter housing off an 89 S-10. Runs great down to single digits so far, and no problems in the heat of Moab either. Rebuild it and replace the missing parts and you should be good to go. Finding parts might be tough though. It's a great carburetor IMHO. Simple, and works excellent in many off-camber situations.
     
  5. Jan 13, 2013
    Dks62

    Dks62 Member

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    Parts is what I'm a little worried about. I compared the photos of mine to some on Heeps build page. It looks like the throttle linkage is similar to a Jeep's but, as mentioned, the choke linkage is all wrong for aJeep manual choke. Any idea where I can find the correct manual choke linkage parts? I'm guessing I'll have to do some junkin', since it doesn't sound like something NAPA stocks.

    How can you tell it was originally a 2GC aand not a 2G?
     
  6. Jan 13, 2013
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    2G=manual choke
    2GC=hot air auto choke
    The little boss with the 2 threaded holes on the upper passenger side of the carb is where the auto choke would have mounted.
     
  7. Jan 13, 2013
    Smokeater

    Smokeater Sponsor

    Browns Summit, NC
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  8. Jan 13, 2013
    Eaallred

    Eaallred Member

    West Valley City, UT
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    Put a new float in it while you're at it, and keep the old one in the glove box. I had mine get a pinhole leak in the middle of a Moab trip last fall, and nobody in town had a float for it. Had to drain, and reseal it with JB weld on a daily basis to keep the trip from being a bust. As long as you have a flat head screwdriver and needle nose pliers, you can swap the float out.
     
  9. Jan 13, 2013
    Dks62

    Dks62 Member

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  10. Jan 14, 2013
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

    Fairbanks, Alaska
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    x2 Just look at all those 2G parts! Very cool.
     
  11. Jan 14, 2013
    Dks62

    Dks62 Member

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    I just compared picture #2 to the accelerator linkage diagram in the FSM and if it isn't a Commando linkage it's pretty darn close. Looks like I'm missing the two rods as mentioned and the dashpot assembly, but I don't see mention of the fast idle cam in the FSM. If someone could point it out, I'd appreciate it. Looks like if I'm going to try and convert this to a manual choke I'll need some kind of lever on the choke shaft and a bracket for the cable a la early cj5.

    I've got some other oddball stuff going on in the engine compartment too. The throttle lever on the 1bbl is on the wrong side and there is a cobbled up cable bracket on that side as well. I'll post some pics when able and get some words of wisdom on what all I need to do to unscrew it.
     
  12. Jan 24, 2013
    Dks62

    Dks62 Member

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    Just got the parts from Vintage Speed today, but the choke rod is too small for the choke lever arm. The choke rod is much smaller in diameter than the pump rod. Their online catalog just showed one part number for the choke rod, R-8. Does the choke rod come in different diameters or did a get an off part?
     
  13. Jan 25, 2013
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    [​IMG]

    You will need this part which goes onto the choke plate shaft and a spring. You need to tell them if you have the small or big shaft. If the fast idle cam takes the larger shaft then you will need the large one as they don't make a bushing for that to be able to use smaller rod. Tell them what you are doing and they may suggest some more additional small pieces that you will need. The dash pot is not normally needed unless you are running air conditioning or some device that causes the engine to die when dropped to idle.
     
  14. Jan 25, 2013
    Dks62

    Dks62 Member

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    Thanks Walt. What are the diameters of the large and small carb shafts? I'll measure it to find out which I have.
     
  15. Jan 26, 2013
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    The accelerator pump and choke rods come in large or small only. They don't stipulate dia.
     
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