'63 CJ6 Perkins Rebuild

Bill, I have to run an errand in Hillsboro about 2 PM today, can we connect? I'd like to see your jeep. If so, email your number and address to peter@compostwerks dot com, or we could meet somewhere. Headed to sausage source.

 

So glad to hear you still have the project.

Good luck getting the priorities in line!

 

I work in Concord and wont be home until later tonight. My jeep right now is in New London for winter storage. If you ever saw a blue flatfender jeep running around that was probably me.

 

Re: '65 CJ6 Perkins Rebuild

OK guys, shop is done, insulated and wood stove installed;



The soft top has been removed. It was very fragile and unrecoverable. I learned that the 6 is a 1965 based upon the driver side rear marker, reverse light knockouts and also that I found the original plates.



I scraped out most of the Hanta virus in the bottom of the tub. I knew the floors in front and back would need to be replaced.



I removed the transmission covers.



Closeup of the Perkins specific bell housing. No engine stay cable, perhaps it's just missing.



Also disconnected the tail lights, e-brake cable, speedo cable, much of the engine harness. Taking lots of pics.



I have about 2 months before life gets crazy with mu business, time to get some work done.....

I'm wondering if anyone has any comments about the bumper, Never seen one like this, buts looks very professionally built. Considering it's fate at this point....:?

 

Period after market? Looks like it would be nice to have, I know I'm always feeling for the draw bar when I'm stepping out of the back.

 

Yes, I really like the bumper. My gut tells me that the original owner had it done shortly after he purchased the jeep. It's certainly is not something that someone fabbed up in a hurry. Very nicely done actually. It doesn't affect the departure angle because of the hitch.

The plating must be replaced but I have never seen textured steel like this. I guess it will be diamond plate

 

Nice!

The bumper looks to be period correct, i remember some like it from back in the '60's and 70's.
Iv'e never heard of somebody mentioning the stay cable on a diesel, the pics don't show any of the mounting hardware, I just don't know.

For a VT Jeep, the rust in the floor isn't bad.
I wish I had it.

 

Google ship plate. I'm not positive, but I may be remembering that some place manufacturers old style tread plate like that. Or I was just hallucinating positive thoughts again.....

 

I'm going to attempt to find a similar tread to replace that plating. Wish me luck....and it may be a while before I get to that!

 

Hi Gang;

I have a brief but significant update.

After a great deal of research, I decided on the Eastwood MIG 135. I tried several other welders in the same class (including Lincolns) but was less than impressed. The main reason I went with the MIG 135 was the infinite wire speed and voltage controls. The second was all the great reviews it's received since 2008 or 9. It just felt like Iwould be paying for the Lincoln name (although I did really want a Lincoln). So for $299.00 I feel it was a bargain especially with free shipping. I also bought a welding cart from Eastwood and am very happy with the quality. I could't have made a nicer one for less money.

So out of the box, I was able to practice on a few very small projects. This is literally the first time I have attempted to fabricate anything with a MIG and I found the results to be great. I learned that the preparation takes a LOT longer than the welding itself. Mostly, I've been playing with sheet metal.




More practice today. A buddy is coming over with a broken exhaust pipe on his PT Cruiser (groan) so I get more MIG practice. Wish me luck falllas!


Pete

 

Good luck, looking forward to seeing your progress!

 

Bumper is definitely period aftermarket, and square diamond plate is also a period feature. Good luck finding some, might have to ask your local scrap mills to save you some if any comes in.

Nice jeep, I'm enjoying following your posts.

 

I've decided to begin this process with body work. My thinking is that if I see a straight and prepped body at the ready, it will motivate me better. The mechanicals are easier (for me) anyway.

So, my plan is to attack the worst part first


This is a very structural part of the body since my front floors are very weak.

So I got pretty lucky and found a worthy donor


It's fairly straight but encountered some bondo (which was actually done properly). I'll do the best I can not to disturb things too much. Here's the panel in the process of cutting spot welds.


Nice to see the harness tabs (sending unit) are still there.

There was a chrome angle iron rocker guard that left a number of 1/3rd inch holes to patch. Too big to fill with my MIG?


I'm grateful that the cowl reinforcement is in excellent shape since the one in my 6 is really shot. I won't be removing it from the replacement panel. I'll be butt welding to the upper portion of the cowl reinforcement that'll be left it the tub.

I'd wouldn't mind some advice as to what I should be doing first (floor or cowl replacement). I'm going to have to buy some steel to do some temporary bracing to avoid twisting. Any thoughts on how I should be bracing?

Thanks fellas....Pete

 

cross the openings with an x. i.e. the door and across the tub top of cowl to rear of tub. and the holes are fillable with the mig.

 

when filling with my MIG, I like to use a little less heat than needed for penetration and walk the puddle towards the opening, but I rarely weld on sheet metal. If you don't have one already, a flap wheel can be your best friend.

 

Just read threw your build,
Fantastic work on that diesel engine, that's one thing I like about old diesel engines is all the brass fittings and the fuel lines.

 

Thanks Piffey

The work on the engine had been the most enjoyable so far. It's hard to believe it was a year and 1/2 ago! At least I have a good dry garage to store it in until I'm ready to drop it in. Seems so far off....but at least I have some foreword momentum happening here.

So I've decided to get a little more MIG time before tackling probably the most difficult body work on this thing (drivers side cowl and door opening).

The firewall behind the battery tray was seriously cracked. I ground it down enought to get good contact and drilled a hole at the end of each crack.



It would seem some battery acid leaked below the battery tray causing some rust. I cut out the section...



I'm already getting tired of drilling out spot welds! Weld through primer.



And spot welds almost done...I just have to do some grinding.

 

I know you fellas like pics, so here's a bunch.....More body work this weekend.



The wheel well brace needs to be replaced. I couldn't find a direct replacement, but Classic Enterprises makes them for CJ2A. It's just a matter of lengthening the upper part of the brace. I'm sure I'll find a bit of solid metal on the old one. I'm saving everything. The top of the wheel well is also rusted over this brace. I can salvage some of the stamped steel from the rear floor which has to come out anyway.





Onto the tail light panels..... The brace on this side was torn and badly rusted. A replacement has been ordered.



There was a pretty significant dent in this area and the metal was stretched out. I did the best I could without a proper dolly. Some blocks of oak worked out pretty well though....



Onto the passenger side.....pre-op.



I'm going to wait before installing this patch panel. I'm not thinking the replacement brace will fit between the patch panel and the baffle once it's welded in place.



The patch panel is cut and formed. I just have to wait for the brown santa to get here! Lamonte at Classic Enterprises said their pretty backed up.

 

Any updates?