Opinions Advanced adapt chain clutch linkage

I have been going through the archives reading about alternative clutch linkages. I am probably going to go with the AA chain linkage type.

I need the opinion of people that have made this change.

Background: originally this jeep came with a cable type clutch linkage (it is a 71). I remember in the mid 70's dad was having trouble with it and rigged up a mechanical linkage for a temporary fix. That temporary fix has lasted 37 years, but I want something that is a little less likely to hang up on something.

anyway, looking at the picture here, do you fellas that have the AA linkage already think there is room here for it with out having to move the exhaust? Just your opinion, I won't hold you to anything. I know I have to add an ear from the cross tube like that from an earlier early cj5, but I'll get that worked out.

Thank you very much!

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I just installed the A\A chain clutch controller last week. Simple, straight forward and took all of 1 hour to install.My 57 had backyard engineered clutch linkage that would not work when I bought it. It now works as good as new. You can decide if you have room for the A\A part, mine is mounted on lower frame rail, 16" back from C\L of clutch,brake pivot point. There it sticks out from the top frame rail 4" barely clearing output side of Ramsey dual PTO.

For what its worth the Advance catalog states this part won't replace cable operated clutch linkage, I asked about it for my 71 Ren. I and was told it is because of the attachment point on the pedal end.

 

Maybe you could just swap the pedal to an earlier version that would work with the AA setup. I used one for years and it worked fine.

 

Thanks guys. I have been looking for older set of pedals that will work with the AA chain, but I think I can mod the 71 set to get it to work. Thanks for the measurements too!

 

aa chain set up has worked great for me for 16 yrs.

 

FWIW, my '70 still has the cable, and it works good. The only problem I've had was breaking the little ball off the adjuster where it goes into the clutch fork. I carry a spare now.

 

if your dads has worked for 27 yrs why change it? thats hard to say about any jeep clutch linkage is it possible to just improve on his idea/ make it a cleaner install

 

I twisted up my 68 once, with all stock parts, to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage and it killed the motor. The only thing that saved my butt (solo trip) was finally working the OD into neutral. Nothing else was movable. If you have a winch, you can usually use that to take the load off and get the trans into neutral but it is a pain in the posterior and will still not release the clutch.

If you are doing any wheeling where twisting is a potential problem, absolutely go hydraulic.

 

x2

I like the AA clutch linkage, but twisting will cause issues.

 

I count 4 guys telling you the AA chain linkage setup will be unable to release your clutch when the frame is in a twist. My personal experience makes 5. Like Lynn, I ended up stalled on a steep slope with the linkage bound, couldn't release the clutch or get the transmission out of gear. I finally freed it by cranking the steering back a forth which relieved the frame twist just enough to get clutch release.

My current runner, the Yellow Barn Find has the cable linkage and I like it the most. It has given me zero problems, releases and engages without chatter (unlike the last runner with the AA that grabbed on engagement).
I think I will take heed of Doug's experience and start to carry a spare adjuster link that has the little ball end on it though, this strikes me a the weakest point in the system.

Is your current cable linkage broke? If not don't fix it....

Don

 

Its nor broken. It originally had the cable linkage that was standard on the '71. The way it has been rigged up for the past 37 years, one of the bell cranks sticks down, the clutch pedal goes straight to it. It does have the same type of ball end you are talking about, it used to break annually. I finally took a new in to a local machine shop and had him duplicate in tool steel and harden it, haven't hat it break since.

I will heed the advice here though and avoid the AA chain. If I can't come up with a better alternative, I'll stick with what I have, It does work. It just likes to grab sticks and grass and stuff when off road because how it points down.

Thanks

 

I have the Advanced Adapters chain clutch setup on my '63 CJ5 with a Ford 302. It is often used in very rough and twisting terrain and there has never been a clutch release problem. I see several have experienced this clutch issue of it not releasing when the Jeep is twisted. Anyone figure out what is binding which causes the "no release" problem?. The AA setup is so simple as it is only a chain which rotates a sprocket gear. It seems there is nothing that could bind. Thoughts?

 

In the case I experienced I don't think it was a bind, but rather just enough relative movement between body and frame the stopped the pedal travel short of the normal. There may also have been movement of the engine/transmission package relative to the frame, but I could not see to determine this.
It would not take much movement of these two to take just enough of the travel of the clutch release out of the sytem so that it could not quite release. I found that cranking the steering wheel back and forth moved the vehicle on that steep slope just a bit, and changed the flex of the frame and body so that the clutch would release.
The way I had it adjusted had something to do with this as well, I had it set so that it didn't release until the pedal was almost all the way to the floor. This was to try and get adequate free play at the top of pedal travel.

Don

 

The original clutch cross tube setup has two levers welded to it. One of the levers connects to the clutch pedal via a rod. The other lever goes to the clutch release arm (at the engine bell housing) via the cable connection. The original setup used different lengths of those two levers on the cross-tube to change the ratio of your clutch pedal application distance.

The AA setup is a chain going over a roller sprocket. The chain comes directly from the clutch pedal connection/actuation arm, goes around the chain sprocket (located back a foot or so on the frame), and then the other end of the chain connects directly to the clutch release arm. The AA setup is 1:1, there is no "lever multiplier / ratio changer" as with the original cross tube (with the two different length arms on the cross tube). I had to change the mounting postion (of where the chain connects to the clutch pedal actuating arm) in order to adjust the ratio of pull and get the clutch pedal to provide release with the correct amount of pedal push distance. Mine now releases the clutch at about 60% to 70% of pedal travel distance.


I made the change to the AA setup for a couple of reasons. 1)- the original cross tube was worn out 2). By changing to the AA clutch setup, I was able to run the exhaust pipe from the left side of the Ford V8 302 engine back staying inside the frame, since that area was no longer blocked by the original cross tube setup. The right side exhaust runs back also inside the frame. Both these tubes connect behind the transfer case and then go through a single muffler also located inside the frame with the exhaust exit ending up behind the left rear tire. Most all of the early CJ's with a V8 have the left and right exhausts pipe tubing coming under the frame, just behind the rear of the front leaf spring hangers, with mufflers located outside the frame under the right and left floorboards. I did not want the floorboard / outboard mufflers or under frame exhaust tubes for a number of reasons including ground clearance and floor heat.

 

I have had my 71 pretty twisted up and so far no binding with the AA setup.

 

How loose your frame and body are could have a big effect when you're twisted up. Hydro is the best of all worlds. But it's more work and more $ .