Starting F-head after rebuild, a few questions, before I do this.

I'm almost ready to start my rebuilt F-head (61 CJ5) and have been reading all the threads I could find about this but still have a few more questions.
I've yet to figure out how to post attachments or else I would show you what I've got so far, but I have everything on the frame except body parts and the radiator (thus no wiring).

So my questions:
(1)Can I hook up the radiator without putting the grill on, or does it need to be attached to the grill for first startup?
(2)What guage wiring for a temporary wiring harness for battery, starter, alternator I did the conversion, etc.?
(3)ANSWERED
(4)I've read 2 theories on first start of a rebuilt engine....one says not to let the engine idle at all for the first 30 mins or so, and to keep rpms above 2000.....another says after you notice you have oil pressure start it and let it idle high for 20 mins or so then shut it off and change the oil and filter? anyone having anything to say about that would be helpful.
(5)I plan on using regular 10w-30 penzoil .... any objections?
(6)and I'd like to wire in the temp. sender so I can monitor the temperature....I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge, so I'll throw that one, but how can I monitor the temperature, or advice on wiring that puppy in with nothing else wired up?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions that may not be widely covered in the threads. This was my first engine rebuild and with the CJ3bpage rebuild guide and the FSM I hope I got everything right on putting her back together. I'M NERVOUS...and don't want to miss anything.

 

Firing order of the cylinders is #1,3,4,2, counting from the front of the engine. The order on the distributor cap is the same, anti-clockwise.

Locate the #1 cap wire position by rotating the engine until #1 cylinder is at the top of it's compression stroke (both valves closed). The distributor rotor will be pointing where the #1 wire needs to be.

 

Thanks...sounds pretty simple.

 

if you look at the distributor like a clock, with the rotor as the hour hand, it should be pointing to the 5 o:clock position at TDC. With the valves for number one both closed.

Not sure if you can mount the radiator without the grill, since it mounts to the grill.

Go with the heaviest wiring you have got.

Are you doing this startup as frame-in or frame-out, and if frame-in is the tub on?

If frame-in tub-off then just mock up a small dash panel with your ignition switch, volt/amp meter and oil pressure and temp gauges on it, making sure all your polarities are correct.

Don't forget to run some kinda exhaust out of your garage/shed/testing area to keep the fumes from making you woozie.

And a fire-extinguisher or two, plus a hose readily available for grass in the immediate vicinity.

 

As for initial start up, it's been a while and my 61 year old head is a bit fuzzy do to the flu running rampant through my household, so I can't help with that.

 

here'd how I wired mine.

red wire went to battery positive to ballast resistor. yellow wire from ballast resistor to coil positive. light blue wire from coil negative to distributor (hard to see). Other blue wire from starter solinoid, I would then touch it to the positive wire on the solinoid from the battery to start the engine. As for the radiator I attached to the grill and mounted the grill. I fired it up with my engine builder present, no special instructions, just fired it up let it run on high idle until it warmed up. Let it run for awhile adjusting the timing and carburator then shut it down. Prior to starting the engine I forced oil through the system with a preassure tank. Something my engine guy highly recomended.

 

If you don't have a pressure tank, just leave the plugs out and spin the motor with the starter till the pressure gauge shows pressure.

 

I ran mine n with the radiator just setting there but be really careful. fan could get into radiator.

 

Don't know what temp gauge your using but if it is the one in the speedo cluster then the temp gauge gets its power from the fuel gauge.

 

1. When I started mine for the first time, I bolted the radiator to the grill and mounted everything properly. I still had problem with the fan hitting the radiator because the grill mounts with only one center bolt and without fenders, it is allowed to swivel. I rectified that problem by temporarily putting in the radiator support bars that go to the firewall and adjusting them until I had enough clearance.

2. The battery will need standard battery cables, red goes to the starter solenoid, black to the frame. Make sure you have the grounding strap that goes from the frame to the engine block. The ignition wires from your coil to distributor, temporary ignition switch, and temporary starter switch just need to be a medium gauge wire. When in doubt, it is always better to go heavier than needed.

4. Lots of schools of thought on this, on an old engine like this there is probably no absolute right or wrong answer. I started mine, let the oil pressure build up, and did a combination of revs and periods of idling. This isn't a race car or a modern tight-tolerance engine so I don't think the method matters as much. Obviously, just make sure you maintain oil pressure.

5. I used standard oil in mine. My machine shop guy recommended I use a diesel engine oil because they have higher levels of zinc that is good for older engines. I figured I would use less expensive oil for initial break in and then change it to something else. The initial oil is sacrificial anyway.

6. I used a mechanical temp gauge for mine, I bought it at my FLAPS for like $15 or something. I threaded it into the head and then wire-tied it to one of the radiator support bars for visibility. Same thing with the oil pressure gauge, I just bought a new one (I got one with a clear plastic tube so I could see when the oil pressure was building up.) I wouldn't use the temp gauge on the original speedo cluster because it is electrical and would require some fancier wiring to make it work; IMO it is worth the extra few dollars to buy some cheap universal gauges.

I understand your nervousness, I was the same way when I started mine for the first time. This was the first engine I completely rebuilt on my own so I didn't know what to expect. But it started right up, smoked like a steam train for the first few seconds until the rings set, and then it purred like a kitten.

 

Zinc Di-Phosphate in engine oils is important for high pressure areas such as the flat lifters style cams used in most older engines. Newer engines use roller cams so it is not an issue. The concentration of zinc phosphate in oils has been reduced significantly over the past few years as a result of EPA rules because it can affect the catalyic converter if your engine burns oil. Having proper concentrations of this element is of high importance, especially during break-in or after cam/lifter work. . The potential of ending up with a flat cam lobe is significantly more possilble when using an oil without proper amounts of this additive. I use oils with this additive in all my older engines all the time, though it is less of an issue once an engine has been run in. The American Engine Rebuilder's Association ( AERA ) Bulletin #TB2333 addresses this problem as they were seeing increasing number of cam failures among proffesional rebuilders.


DO NOT let anyone tell you "it doesn't matter", or "synthetic oils are just as good" or whatever. The issue is real and the problem is that the flat cam lobe does not show up until 3,000 to 15,000 miles after first start. DO NOT run the engine until either you have put in the additive or better, use an "off road oil" which has the older formulation from the factory. There are still oils with the older formula. One example is "Valvoline Racing Oil" 20-50 - labled "Not street legal". There are a number of others also. http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/racing/racing-motor-oil/9 You should be able to order this oil from the Napa or other auto parts stores. There are also Amsoil products, etc still available.

Diesel oils had contained the higher concentration of these additives, and that was why the recommendations to use them. Now, even these oils have been changed and without specific formulation information, you will not know what is actually in them or if they are appropriate.


Also- there is an additive called "ZDDP Plus". This is available mail order from such places as Summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ISK-ZDDP/