CJ-5 Got me stumped

Hey guys I'm kinda new here, and browsed around to see if there was anything close to my problem, but couldn't find anything. So here goes. I have a 68 CJ5 with a Hurricane, and this thing had a bad sputter when you revved it above about 1500 RPM. Did some checking, and found out some idiot put a coil on there, and didn't install a ballast resistor. Ok so I fixed this, and replaced all the ignition parts, because they got a little burned from the excess voltage, points, condenser, coil, plugs, wires, button, cap. Now it runs and idles great, but when you bring it up to about 2200 it starts with the busting out again. I've advanced the distributor a bit, and that helped, but now i'm at ends. Someone has changed the air cleaner system, and put a aftermarket breather on here, and as well as installed a new electric fuel pump. Looks like I'm still running the Carter YF, and the carb doesn't look that old. Remember this thing runs like a champ up till you hit the high RPMS. Any Ideas??

 

I'd bet the carb could use a good cleaning. Sounds like the high-speed jet is starting to plug up. It could also be a bad accelerator pump.

 

If the problem starts under slow and steady acceleration, I would start by checking total fuel flow (fuel filter?) and then the needle valve and jets in the carb. If the sputter is under rapid acceleration your problem is probably the accelerator pump. Don't discount the distributor until you have checked for correct advance and looked for signs of arcing.

 

My '60 doesn't have a ballast resistor. Did not seem to effect it any. Not adversely any way.

 

Hey guys thanks for the replies. It does it at the same point consistantly whether sitting at neutral, or under a load, and also slow and steady or if you floor it...I set the points at .20 maybe a shade less, but no less than .19 with a feeler gauge. Im unsure what you mean about dwell.. Fuel flow is good, and if i had my opinion too much. Haven't put a gauge on that to check to be certain. Seems to me if it was too much it would flood at all RPM levels. The thing that worries me is someone has converted this thing from the original air cleaner system (not sure what was on this Jeep) to one of those Mr. Gasket deals you buy at O'riley's for $15 bucks.

 

This may help explain dwell: http://www.ehow.com/how_5593550_set-old-distributor-points.html

I suggest you get a basic repair manual and one specific for your Jeep. Set your dwell (feeler gauge is just a guesstimate) and then the timing. If you still have the problem, use a timing light to measure your timing advance. Move on to fuel if the problem is still present.

 

Ok thanks again guys, I'll have to check when I get back to her this weekend. I also have some wiring work to do on this booger. Also one more quick question while I'm here I'm looking to put some NDT's on this Jeep. According to the guy that runs the army surplus shop there were some differences between the wheels from the old military Jeeps (M38A1, M161) has anyone ran into any issues with this while trying to put them on a CJ? Plus there is quite a difference in price... This guy wants double price for M38A1 tires and wheels.

 

If one checks the official Jeep parts manual he will not find a part number for a ballast resistor for the 4 cylinder application. That's because there wasn't one --

If one installs a ballast resistor where it isn't required, that will limit the spark available for ignition to below specs for all speeds.

 

the offset is way different on those two rims get the ones for the m38a1

 

Could the weights or springs in the distributor be worn, broken or sticking thus reducing the advance?

 

you need a dwell meter to properly set the dwell, measured in degrees (angle). Here is an example of one at jc whitney, but they are available at any auto parts store, they may even have loaners.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/dwell-tach-and-volt-analyzer/p2008160.jcwx?filterid=u0j1

 

Military jeep wheels are 16", Cj5 can be 16" or 15". And I believe true military wheels are heavier, akin to Willys Jeep 4WD trucks. Try searching here, and military vehicle sites for the fine details.

They may have some collector's value, but in daily life there is no practical difference, in my experience.

 

True Kamel, but also remember most Jeeps were 6v. My Jeep is running off of 12, also if you use a coil pack that says on the outside. Use No External resistor, there is no call for one. I've crossed this bridge on a '72 a couple of years back.

 

Thats what I was afraid some one would tell me. Those are going for quite a bit more than others. But thanks!

 

huh, this intrigues me. I'd like to hear more input on this.

 

There was never a ballast resistor required on the F-134, whether it was 6 or 12 volts. The V6 engine required a ballast resistor, but only the V6. That's why one will find a part number for a V6 resistor and not for a F-134 in the parts manual.

A ballast resistor limits the current (somewhat) through the coil, which would limit the voltage on the secondary (high tension) side of the coil. That is the voltage applied to the spark plugs. Normally there is a four terminal post on the starting solenoid with the usual two large, high current terminals for the battery and starter, a third that goes to the start on the ignition switch, and the fourth goes to the "+" side of the coil. When starting the engine, the fourth terminal has 12 volts switched to it which effectively shorts out the ballast resistor thereby applying the maximum current available to the coil and the maximum voltage on the secondary (high tension) for the spark plugs. Once the starter is disengaged, the fourth terminal opens and the ballast resistor begins to limit the current again. That fourth terminal simply provides a boost for starting, especially in cold weather.

kamel

 

What about coils with internal resistors? That would not show up in a parts list since the resistor is not a separate part.

If a non-resistor coil was accidentally substituted, would it not pass excessive voltage through the points?

 

Coil pack on mine and the resister in still on the wall unused. 12v F-134