rear lockout stud problem again

Jim,

Did you try McMaster-Carr?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-studs/=a5e04p

 

I ordered studs for my front hubs from Enco http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM
I believe they are meant for work hold-downs on machine tools.

Maybe you could blast out the threaded holes with brake cleaner, to help the Locktite to stick to the hub and bolt.

Bolts with drilled heads and safety wire is another possibility.

 

McMaster Part Number: 90281A112 1.79 each

There not exactly what your looking for but should work (course thread on both ends). Personally I prefer to have the course thread in the location its at, less likely to get dirt in the threads causing the nuts to gaul and strip. Otherwise, the guys at napa should be able to pull out there dorman book (or what ever Napa uses) and order up what ever you need.

 

Jim, check the threads in the hub very close for looseness or damage. Run a bottoming tap, not a tapered/threading tap down them to clean them out and straighten the threads. You can also use the tap to check the condition of the threads. If the tap is even slightly loose when threaded in you have damaged holes. It shouldn't be hard to thread the tap in but it shouldn't be loose at all.

I've found that when the studs come loose like this and they've been thread locked in it's usually the holes had some debris or oil in them or the holes or threads are damaged.
Using some spray brake cleaner in the holes after running the tap down the holes and making sure ALL the debris is out may fix your problem. I did mine probably 12 years ago and only had one stud loosen in that time and that was 'cause I didn't get the hole clean enough and the stud oil free on installation. I've run into customer rigs though where they were constantly coming loose. I checked these things and generally fixed the problem.

Did you use grade 8 studs? Is it possible the studs were weaker versions that possibly stretched allowing everything to loosen up?

One other thing, you say you are using 5/16" diameter studs? They should be 3/8" nc.....

 

I was having alot of problems with my studs , problem was in the studs not the nuts .
I finally soaked the hubs and got them totally grease free. I ran a tap in them to clean up the threads and then used red locktight and grade 5 studs ,not 8 , felt 5s will bend and 8s will just snap. NAPA had them . on the nut side I went warn nut lock tabs and nylock nuts so far no problems , ,,,the way I drive,,, I check them all the time . I will definatly look into the toyota stuff ,THAT looks like a positive lock.

 

Steve, did you find a source for the warn nut lock tabs, or did you already have them?

 

Herm the overdrive guy, has the tabs, plus all the gaskets.

 

I had them ,and I was at a junkyard and pullrd more off a powerwagon.only problem with them is you can't take the front drums off because it is too close , my brakes are ok so I'm not in there very often.I think Nickmil had a source though.

 

Man, do I ever feel your pain.
I finally gave up on studs and drilled bolt heads for safety wire.
So far so good.

 

Another question, can't tell from the pic. Is the shank of the stud, the unthreaded portion what the hub bolt holes are riding against or is the body of the locking hub center on the threads? If the threads, that could be part of your problem. The hub body will twist, doesn't matter how tight you make the fasteners, it will move some. By having the hub body move against the threads it weakens the stud allowing it to shear. By having the solid shank down in the threaded hole and against the hub body it creates much more shear strength.
I'll have to check and see if I can still get the lock tabs. May have some at the shop.