Brake drum removal???

Not to mention the time and energy saved down the road at a later time.

 

Now to revive an old thread.

I am attempting to pull the hub/drum on the front left of a CJ6 I recently acquired (year still unknown), to address a seized wheel, and am running into a small problem. They do not want to come off (and that’s with both of the large nuts and the outer bearing out)!

This jeep (and another one in the collection) sat for quite awhile prior to following me home and both have a seized front left wheel. I am thinking that since they sat for so long that the shoes have rusted to the drums. I have spent a fair amount of time tapping the drum with a hammer (and have gotten lots of rust dust out) but that seems to not be helping the cause any.

Is there anyway to put a puller on the front hub and just drag it off, along with the drums and any other assorted brake parts that happen to come with it? Or would that be an expensive mistake?

Any thoughts/suggestions on how I should proceed?

 

I had been hoping to avoid such a drastic/permanent approach – especially since I am not the best hand with a cutting torch.

Any other ideas?

 

pull the upper and lower king pin caps, remove the bolts for the knuckle seal, remove the brake line
yank the whole assy off
this gets it in the shop and/or on a press where you can work with it
or maybe replace it all with used components if it won't cooperate

 

Was talking to some folks over the weekend who suggested:
#1 "tapping" with a bigger hammer
#2 running a torch around the outside of the drum a few times to warm/expand it.

Do those ideas sound like they might help?

 

You can try both of them. I would think the heat would work the best. If that doesn't work, I'd remove the whole assembly.

 

would try to back the shoes off 1st. 2nd soak the groove between the drum and backing plate with oil. 3rd using the 2nd largest hammer you own, I would start breaking the drum loose. When the shoes become exposed, spray them with oil as well. IF all else fails cut the drum w/torch. all you need to do is to relieve the tension, so 1 or 2 cuts are all you need. start from the outside and work your way inside. Don't cut on the top, but on the sides or bottom that way neatness won't matter.

 

I realize this is an old thread, but thought I'd add my experience since the info on here helped me when it came time today to replace the shoes on my rear 9" CJ2A drums. I couldn't find a hub puller to rent around here. One option was to order one online for about $100-$150. Instead, I placed some logs on the ground in my backyard, loosened the axle nut a bit, and drove back and forth over the logs a bunch of times. I also did some tight turns in between. About 5 to 10 minutes later I noticed the rear wheel wobbling a bit, so I made sure the axle nut was still on there and carefully drove it back to the concrete pad in my backyard. Worked great, but I definitely wouldn't try it out on the street.

 

I managed to get the reluctant front hub and drum off after much "tapping" :smash: and a bit of prying.
In the process I managed to kill most of the clips/pins that hold the shoes in place (which were rusted to the drum - as expected).
But on the + side that vehicle can now roll freely. Now to repeat the process on the other uncooperative vehicle.

 

Removal on my 1964 CJ5A meant removing the lugs, wheel and then tapping off the drum. No need to remove Lock-o-matic hubs

 

When reassembling , use Never Seize on the hub on the Hub. Be Christian , Look out for the next Guy.