Upgraded Tie Rod, Ends And Drag Link For 1974 D30

^^^
This. I like this method best, no expensive inserts and no welding.

I didn't have any issues with the free hand method but maybe I just got lucky

 

I had this happen, so I made a little jig out of plastic pipe fittings to keep the tap straight long enough to get a few turns in the tube and it was good to go.

 

The more I look at this, the more I want to just ream the knuckles. The ream is a bit under 100 bucks. If I were to drill for the inserts, I need a 1" drill. I know from experience that I'm going o need a 63/64 or a bit smaller or those inserts are going to have an oversize hole. The bit is like 40 bucks min. I have 1" drills, but I also know that they are unwieldy in a hand drill and I want to do this without taking the knuckles off.

I have a lathe that can handle any tap alignment issues and I like starting taps straight like that.

I have questions about the tie rod end issue. ES2233L has the hole for a drag link and I would rather not use this. ES2234R and ES2234L are the shorter ones with the 7.15 degree taper, 7/8-18 threads with major diameter of .773 and minor of .664 and length of taper of .808". These seem to solve the issue of the tie rod assembly. For this I need a 7/8-18 left and right tap and a ball joint ream of 7.15 degrees.

I has assumed that I could just use these same TRE's for my drag link, but I read that these part numbers are not designed for drag link use. So what are the parts for that part of the upgrade? Im reading that ES2027 L and R are used for this but they have a different numbers for their taper at .690. do they still use the 7.15 taper? My math is not great.. Digging through my taper ream pile got me all into the pythagorean theorem to figure out what I had..

 

I got lucky on one. Did the other end and it was off, tubing wasted

 

I thought I had all the TRE numbers I used for my 3B axle but can't find them. The actual TRE's were the Moog left hand thread with drag link hole on the right side (passenger), and a right hand threaded TRE from Ruffstuff on the left side. I re-reamed that right side TRE on the opposite side for the drag link connection (so the drag link TRE inserts from the front). I used another Moog high angle TRE left hand for the drag link/tie rod connection. The pitman arm connection is a custom threaded 4140 1 1/16-18 right hand thread for the PS control valve and would not likely be of interest. All the TRE's are 7/8-18 and I used 1 1/2x1/4 wall DOM for the actual tie rod and drag link.

Those pieces are laid out here:
The Square Deal

I will do a little digging to see if I can find the actual Moog numbers.

 

I bought this kit todo mine. Nice quality stuff, the reamer is nice and sharp! You can't beat his prices.
Dana 60 Dana 44 7/8 18 1 Ton Tie Rod Kit 2026/27/2233/34 With H'WARE AND REAMER | eBay

 

That kit looks great.

 

OK, part numbers:

Passenger side tie rod end with drag link "socket": ES2233L (7/8-18 left hand)
Drivers side tie rod end: Ruffstuff TK 234 (7/8-18 right hand)
Drag link: ES2027L (7/8-18 left hand high angle)

I couldn't find a Moog TRE equivalent to the Ruffstuff TRE.

 

These are the part numbers for his kit. He also provides the weld in bungs AND a 7.15 degree reamer for 134 bucks. It's a very good deal. No mention of rod end brands or reamer brands though.
1 ES 2026 R / ES 2027 R Tie Rod
1 ES 2027 L Tie Rod
1 ES 2233 L Tie Rod (Y Link)
1 ES 2234 R Tie Rod
2 7/8 18 Insert/ Tube Adapter Left
2 7/8 18 Insert/ Tube Adapter Right
2 7/8 18 Jam Nut Left
2 7/8 18 Jam Nut Right

Partsmike sells a drag link kit too with custom DOM
PM-DL2027L Draglink assembly - custom length
They use ES2027L and R for their assembly with tapped DOM. 140 bucks.

 

Ruffstuff TRE is ES2234R I am pretty sure.

It seems that ES2010L/R will work for TRE's They came on Dodge 4x4 W250/350 w/ 4500lb front axle. They use the same taper as GM.

 

I have a new 1 ton TR 1/4” wall with 7/8” TR end that fits a stock narrow track 30 knuckle I won’t be using.

Next to a stock 30 TR

 

I used the

Moog ES2234R Tie Rod End
And
Moog ES2010L Tie Rod End

Drilled and tapped the DOM (i have done this freehand and on the lathe, lathe makes it really easy)

I used the cheap reamer that everyone uses. It is technically not a perfect match if i recall (10th of a degree off or something, I would have to look it up), but it so close it isn't a problem. I would go with heavy wall tubing although i never hit the linkage once it was moved up high.

Chuck's tie rod looks pretty nice and ready to go!

 

Whats the "cheap" reamer you speak of? I am looking at this one, 1-1/2" TAPER PER FOOT BALL JOINT & TIE ROD TAPER REAMER X-SERIES #6952X

 

I will try to look it up, I thought it was in the $50 range, but it is a few years old. I am in the mountains for the next week and the reamer is home so I can't get the part number right away.

 

My understanding is that the TRE and Drag Link use the same 7.15 taper. The Drag Link is just cut a litter deeper to match the larger diameter.

 

I like the TMR concept as well, sounds like you can use the castle nut as well. Would you happen to know if the stock Tie Rod Ends for a 1978 Dana 30 NT will fit the taper of the 3/4” TMR insert? I’m far away from the Jeep for a month and not able to measure the taper.

 

You need to order the inserts that are labeled as "Jeep taper." You will use a castle nut and cotter pin just like factory.

 

So I have had in my possession the HD TR from Chuck pictured above.
To do a flip and install, do I need inserts or just use the reamer to fit ?
He refers to it as a stock replacement TR.
Haven't done this before so yea I'm a newbie at this.

 

When I did my Dana 30 I was going to use the inserts from Go Fer It but they were too small for the TRE's. I ended up using the larger ones and tacked them in. I lost my write up but you have to drill a decent sized hole. Here is my write up, checkout post 130.
http://earlycj5.com/xf_cj5/index.php?threads/123414/page-7