Crankshaft Binds .

Could be incorrectly marked............you need to measure it and the cap the way I previously mentioned........it will tell you what you need to know.............

Was that crankshaft ever hurt? could it be bent? Is that the same main Bering cap that has been on there all the time?

 

Complete drivetrain is still in vehicle . Not sure I can remove crankshaft on my back in driveway . Bought engine , trans, t.case used so don't have much history on it . I was changing seal just as a preventive measure . This has really gone south .

 

Just covering all bases here.... you’re sure you’re not putting the cap in backwards?

Are there any marks to indicate where exactly it’s rubbing?

 

At this point in time I would pull it out...........if the deciding binding factor is the bearing.......you have to check it!

 

I don't see any course possible except removing the crank, measuring the journal, and measuring the journal bore with the new bearings in place and torqued properly. I would also measure the old bearings, again torqued in place. Find a machinist friend to help or buy the needed measuring tools.

 

I think here is the key to your problem. Bearing shell has to be bent, warped, crooked, backwards, or dirt behind it.

 

In this process have you been rolling both half's of the bearing in and out with the crank in place?? Sounds like you have? Likewise the seal?...............I mean I know guys like to attempt to do that and sometimes get reasonable results........used to do that allot in the old Cummins NT series motors , but usually in order to do so all the caps have to be loosened so the crank will drop a little...........Lots of things can go wrong that you can't see........Not the best scenario overall as space is limited....

 

I'm not an L/F head guy. Deep in the back of my brain I seem to recall some crank machining nuances when rebuilding depending on the seal. Simplest solution may be to return to previous style seal. Something about endplay - crank walking etc .

 

To me, this is so much easier with the engine out, I would pull it. Easy in a Jeep, compared to a passenger car. And your focus on the problem will be much better with the block upside down in front of you.

 

Been away a few days. Gonna get back at it tonight . All good ideas .

 

Problem solved . Made contact today with a local engine rebuilder . He gave me a few pointers , and they worked. First , I was a little too exuberant with assembly lube , not allowing enough clearance between bearing shell and crank journal . He said use a minimal amount of light oil and have someone else rotate the crank while I slowly torque down the cap bolts . It worked , engine now turns freely.

 

How about the leak?

 

That's the ironic part . Never did have a leak . I was only changing the seal as a preventive measure on a donor used engine . The seal I took out didn't even look bad .

 

(If it ain't broke DON'T fix-it).