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Brake Light Switch

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by colojeepguy, Dec 24, 2017.

  1. Jan 2, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Thats because the Break light was Broken :D
     
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  2. Jan 2, 2018
    Rick Whitson

    Rick Whitson Detroit Area 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I live South of...
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    Howard, give me a break, I was on coffee break.
     
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  3. Jan 4, 2018
    70torino

    70torino Member

    Lancaster, MN
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    With my ADD, I don’t get along with electrical. Lol
     
  4. Jan 4, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Or was it a coffee "Brake"??? :p
     
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  5. Jul 7, 2018
    Hellion

    Hellion Regurgitated

    Eastern TN
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    Is the standard factory brake light switch adjustable for sensitivity?

    I was checking my CJ5 brake lights to see how soon they actuate with pedal movement/pressure. It takes a LOT to activate the brake lights, or more than I’m used to like with a modern car, so my customary flashing the brake lights method [tap-tap-tap and then braking steadily coming to a stop] might take more effort.

    Might have to get that NAPA lever brake switch mentioned in post #17. . .
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
  6. Jul 7, 2018
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    It's not adjustable.
    You may need a new switch or it may be gummed up with crap.
     
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  7. Jul 7, 2018
    ronnie victor

    ronnie victor Member

    raleigh, nc
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    Jun 29, 2015
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    There are low pressure hydraulic switches. Check '''ronfrancis.com" . Part SW32. It costs about $30. I use one and it really IS low pressure.
     
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  8. Jul 8, 2018
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Agree, they lights should be on as son as you feel a bit of resistance on the pedal.
     
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  9. Jul 8, 2018
    1967 CJ5A

    1967 CJ5A Mike 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Raleigh, NC
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    Mine had the same issue. They only came on during a very hard stop. Replaced the pressure switch and now they come on with a very light press, not even enough to start slowing down.
     
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  10. Oct 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Well I'm in the same boat. I tested the two writes by jumping them and lights go on. Since the switch was old, I had a replacement from Walcks in the just in case box. But still no lights. Just to make sure it's not a connection, I shorted the outside of the brass connectors that are actually part of the switch and I get lights. So it has to be the switch. Maybe there's an air bubble as I am in the process of bleeding after disc conversion and all new lines. Is there a way to dry test these?
     
  11. Oct 13, 2018
    Alan28

    Alan28 Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

    Châtillon en...
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    I changed mine recently with help of the forum, works perfectly. It is located near the engine, up, no problem. There is an other one near the brake pedal, but disconnected.
     
  12. Oct 13, 2018
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Air will not activate the switch like fluid will. Bleed the system and try again.
     
  13. Oct 13, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    Took a quick halftime break and sure enough give it enough pressure and they come on. For the past 3 years, I've assumed there was an issue somewhere. In another thread I had posted about the PO having an extra wire run from the headlight junction circuit all the way to the back and could not figure out what it was for. Now I'm wondering if it was to force brake lights on manually by pulling the light switch.

    In any event, I need to find one of those low pressure switches. Anyone know who makes one that has female connectors?
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
  14. Oct 16, 2018
    70cj5134f

    70cj5134f Member

    East Tn
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    Mine are original? When I did my frame off repair and repaint,
    I remember thinking I had never seen a switch like this?
    Didn't know I could buy them,so when I replaced all the lines I just cleaned
    them up as best I could,brake cleaner straw in hole,until it ran clean.
    They work great, light pressure on pedal, and their on.
    To the OP.
    Have u flushed your system really well, all dirt out?
    My wire connector is a flat female spade, like u plug on a atc fuse, had to squeeze it a tad with pliers.
    Also used some dielectric grease on connection. Been like that 3-4 years now.
     
  15. Oct 16, 2018
    mickeykelley

    mickeykelley Well-Known Member

    Republic of Texas
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    I was thinking about trying to clean the original out and use some air pressure to see it it lights up as I'm having hell getting the new one to stop leaking.
     
  16. Nov 2, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Well, no brake lights AGAIN today! This is getting really frustrating. I shouldn't have to change these goddam switches every 3-4 months!
    :banghead:
     
  17. Nov 2, 2020
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    I don't have an issue with brake light switch, I keep changing the back up light switch on mine...I put an inline fuse with, so now I keep changing the fuse...
     
  18. Nov 3, 2020
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    no issue with them . kind of tells ya the quality of parts now
    been there for years (two)
     
  19. Nov 3, 2020
    Steve's 70-5

    Steve's 70-5 Active Member

    Louisville, Ky
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    Are you using a Ron Francis switch?
     
  20. Nov 3, 2020
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    I tried one. I've tried switches from all the major manufacturers.
     
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