Zack's 1956 CJ5 Resto

As a rule, I don't like Rhino Liner in the interior, but your looks really great. You accomplished it in a classy way. Please post more photos of your Jeep. We could always use more eye candy.

 

+1
and please post more pictures/

 

Yeah I do not have that floor panel done yet. I had coated both side of it with Rhino then realized that I could not get cage nuts to lineup with holes so I stripped it all. Major PIA! Got a better plan to reshoot liner that will allow me to get holes lined up.

 

Theover lap is to protect from shoes entering Jeep




I have to swap the 1 end around on the right


Powder coating the cover this weekend.

 

So when I replaced the front floor, it did not have the hump at the back edge. I made that piece for each side then took a "Canadian" hockey puck and cut it to fit inside and used grinder to fit profile. Looked better that a big wedge and stays in place.

 

What color is the body painted because mine is the same color?

 

Original colour was called something like "General Julip green" or something. I have the new paint code from the computer scan off the inside of the glovebox they did at the shop if you want. It is just metallic enough with out looking like a '70's open face Moto helmet.

 

Thank you. This Jeep belonged to my grandfather so the restoration and details have been a labor of love as well as a tribute to him.

 

Beautiful, nice job. Could you use a 12 volt heater motor on a 6 volt, it would probably just run a little slower? Nice Jeep Good Luck.

 

Not a good idea. As the voltage drops the current draw goes up. Double in this case. Ohms law is amps X volts = watts.

 

Won't hurt the motor. If you drop the voltage by half, the current is also halved for the same load, so the power dissipation will be reduced to a quarter that of 12V. Won't be exactly that, because the impedance (dynamic resistance) depends on the amount of current, but it won't hurt the motor - it'll just turn slower.

However, the heater in these Jeeps is already very anemic - the so-called "placebo heater" - and reducing the heater function even further does not seem like a good idea.

 

Yep.

re the caulking, I would use a bead of the butyl caulk in the joints. You can buy this at the home center as "Mortite" where it's sold for sealing around windows etc. I know that in the 70s Jeep would put the caulk in before the body was painted, so if you removed the fender, the mounting surface was bare steel. Not what I would do now ... The caulking is good because it prevents rattles and squeaks.

 

Thanks Tom, I don't know much about Ohms and that kind of stuff, my jeep is 12 volt, with a GM one wire alternator on it. I still have the generator and regulator for sake of original equipment. Thanks for the information, now I know more.

 

When we had electric slot cars, we used to hot-rod them by removing some of the wire windings from the armature - essentially making it a "lower voltage" motor.

The heater motor may well be a similar permanent-magnet type. Probably the OP could easily get his 12v motor de-wound or re-wound for 6volt use.

 

Rewound yes, dewound maybe. Typically lower voltage motors will use larger gauge wire to handle the extra current. Wire size is determined by current, not voltage. This is why you can use your 6V wiring harness on your 50s CJ with 12V. The reverse would not be ok.

Pretty sure your heater motor will be an AC-DC type, with an active field, not a permanent field.

Maybe somebody out there has a 6V heater motor, working or not, that the OP could take to an auto electric shop for repair. Or maybe try Walck's or Debella for a replacement motor.

 

Well, possibly I forgot to mention we might have smoked a few slot car motors.
But that was while still running them at full 12 volts, with fewer windings. And they'd go like raped apes - while they lasted!