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adding fluid to a ross box, bell crank slop

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by cabz, Oct 23, 2012.

  1. Oct 23, 2012
    cabz

    cabz Member

    Ocala FL
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    Sep 18, 2010
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    106
    Can anyone tell me how much gear oil to use in a ross steering box? is it supposed to be filled to the top?. also how hard is it to rebuild the bell crank? mine is very sloppy.
     
  2. Oct 24, 2012
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Tulsa, OK
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    The ross box has a fill plug, at least mine does. I filled it up to fill plug as per the FSM after rebuild. At the angle it sits in the frame the oil level is high enough to cover the cam system and bearing lube hole.
     
  3. Oct 24, 2012
    cabz

    cabz Member

    Ocala FL
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    Sep 18, 2010
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    106
    cool thanks, I need to get an FSM .my old chiltons kinda sucks for details.
     
  4. Oct 24, 2012
    homersdog

    homersdog Tulsa, Ok 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    forgot about your other question. The bell crank is easy, just order a rebuild kit from walcks, kaiser willys, etc. Verify the diameter of your bell crank shaft before ordering. Make sure you re-assemble as per the service manual, I am not sure if the chiltons covers it.
     
  5. Oct 24, 2012
    cabz

    cabz Member

    Ocala FL
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2010
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    106
    Good info. i did not know there where diffrent sizes of bellcrank pin kits.and my chiltons does not have that section in it. is there any online writeups you know of on rebuilding one?.
     
  6. Oct 24, 2012
    kamel

    kamel Senior Curmudgeon

    Erlanger, Kentucky
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    Jun 10, 2003
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    891
    There are a lot of things that can cause sloppy steering - the steering box is usually the last thing I tackle because I find that while it may need adjusting, 'sloppiness' is usually caused elsewhere in the steering system.

    The usual suspects in the order I'd replace/repair are:

    tie rod ends - all four

    bellcrank repair kit - there are different size bellcranks- be sure to know your model year before ordering

    drag link repair kit - save all the old parts here 'cause one of the plugs in the drag link kit will not re-assemble properly and you'll need to use the old one. It is only a plug that won't assemble so using the old part is no big deal.



    steering knuckle bearings -- note that this is the most dirty, time consuming (and perhaps expensive) item. It involves removing the front brakes, backing plate, steering knuckle and then pressing out/in the bearing cups and installing new bearings. Since it is apart anyway why not do the front brakes too, and check the wheel bearings? That's why I'd say this one is the most expensive and time consuming - cause of all the other things you might as well attack while you are greasy and it is apart. Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, replacing those bearings and cups will usually cause a marked improvement in steering.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2012
  7. Oct 24, 2012
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    I suggest you just buy the factory manual. They are worlds better than the aftermarket books, and are available as an inexpensive reprint, here and from most Jeep retailers: http://thejeep.com/shop/TECH+MANUAL...ECH+MANUAL+CJ3B+CJ5%252F6+12V+4+%2526V-6.html

    Moses Ludel may also cover it. http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Rebuilde...eywords=Jeep+CJ+Rebuilder's+Manual:+1946-1971

    Use the Chilton's (or Hayne's) as a door stop. or to hold up the corner of the bed.
     
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