Dana 30 Swap into an Early CJ-5

by Lynn Klingel

Last week, I got the knuckles into place and torqued, and the rest went quickly after that. It was a little tricky trying to torque the nuts on the ball joint studs with the assembly on jack stands. I eventually backed the CJ over the axle, used a floor jack to raise the axle, put a socket over the upper stud and lifted it against the CJ bumper. This put enough pressure on the studs to keep them from turning while I torqued the lower one to spec. Then I torqued the set ring on the upper, torqued it to spec, and pinned it.

Last night, I backed the CJ into the garage at 5:00. I removed the wheels, shocks, stabilizer, drag link and drive shaft. My buddy came over around 6:00, and we cut off the old u-bolts (after trying to get the nuts over the ends that had been torched ) . Carefully removed the brake lines (went well) and unhooked the breather, then removed the shackles. By about 7:20, we dragged the old (Dana) 27 to the other side of the garage.

We positioned the (Dana) 30 over the springs, and started the new u-bolts into the spring plates. After a little compression in the vice, got these started. Hung the new ConFerr shackles, and jacked up the (Dana) 30. Got one spring hung, had a little trouble with the other one. My wife came out and guided the bolt through while John and I made adjustments. Tightened up the u-bolts.

Hopefully, next week I can start on the new braided stainless extended brake lines, the new drag link and tierod, fill the pig, attach the front drive shaft and breather, check u-bolt torque and start to adjust the brake shoes.

I bought Goodridge stainless steel brake lines for a ‘74 on the chance that the fitting to the hard line would be the same, and it is.

Using a die grinder and cut a relief into the knuckle to allow the fitting combination to enter straight. There’s plenty of stock on the knuckle, should not impact strength as long as the relief is sufficiently rounded so as to avoid creating a stress riser. I still have 5 days to ponder the issue.

When you do the knuckle install on the axle yoke (I had a local shop do the ball joint install in the knuckle), you have to put a set ring into the threaded hole in the yoke (upper ball joint hole). After you torque the lower ball joint stud to spec, you have to torque the set ring to spec before installing the castle nut on the upper ball joint stud.

My point here is that you need a special tool to torque the set ring. It’s a deep socket to fit over the stud, but it has 4 teeth on the end of the socket to engage 4 slots on the set ring. 4 wheel drive hardware www.4wd.com has them, they’re about 20 bucks. The set ring gets torqued to 50 ft/lbs., it would be very difficult to do without this tool.

Ball Joint Spanner Wrench, p/n T40207
Page 120 of the Summer 2001 catalog, $19.99, USD

Last night I ground a small relief on the drivers side knuckle to allow the brake line fitting to enter the wheel cylinder so it would thread straight. Started with a round file, finished up and rounded the edges with a small grinding wheel on my Dremel. Worked well, fit really good. To my surprise, the passenger side didn’t need any grinding.

After that, I tightened down the diff cover and filled the pig. Tightened the axle u-bolts, then cut off the excess with the sawzall. (Lynn’s favorite tool!)

All that is left is to build and install the tie rod (I’m going to use the old one as a guide for length) and install drag link, then reinstall shocks and wheels, drums/backing plates. Then bleed the brakes, and take her for alignment.

Impressions after the D30 is Installed

The steering is alot different in feel from the D27 set up. Much more resistance in the wheel effort, but then the D27 was too light to begin with? Something feels a bit squirrelly, wheels probably aren’t tracking the same. It may have been me over-correcting, too

I’ll get an appointment for alignment later this week, that will probably straighten it out. I’ll need to have a long talk with the shop owner before he does the alignment, so he uses the correct model year specs.

I’m sure there will be some new/different handling characteristics that I’ll have to adjust to. I did notice that I can now turn lock-to-lock without the tires rubbing on the springs! WooHoo!!

Input From Forum Members on Proper Alignment

Caster @ 3° These specs are for a 27, but I would like to believe that they would work okay for the 30. The weight and position of the axle are the same, and in fact, had to struggle with the tie rod ends just to get enough to get the tires to toe in. I sorta started to toe the wheels in and drove it until the squirrelly feeling went away. As for an alignment, you can adjust the caster with spring wedges, but the camber is set at the factory, and I don’t believe that there are adjustable ball joints to do this, so, an alignment will basically measure your set up and adjust your toe in. My reference for the 27 came from the universal jeep manual for all vehicles up to 1971. Chiltons give the specs for a 74 wheel alignment, no specific axle, but I think that the 30 was the only option as follows: caster 2.5+ to 3.5+ preference at 3+, camber 1+ to 2+ preference 1.5+, and toe 3/64 to 3/32. So they are really close to a 27 Hope this helps too. Matt.

The stance is 3″ wider overall with the same wheels/tires, obviously 1.5″ per side. I had measured each axle from outer edge of each drum before the install. Previously on the 27, in a sharp turn to lock, the lugs on the tires rubbed the spring pack (33×12.50 MTs on 15×10 wheels with 4″ backspace). Now the tires do not hit the spring pack at full lock. Most of you know my 30 swap story. When standing in front of the Jeep, say about 10 yards or a little more, it’s like “Yeah, that’s what it’s SUPPOSED to look like!” Before, it just always seemed to be too narrow, especially with later model CJ flares on it. I had the 5 degree shims made that I needed with info provided by Don (to achieve proper caster).

Regarding Shims and centering pins for the Model 30

I tried to shim under the bolt head, but it is inadequate. Enlarging the hole is probably the ticket. For those who may be contemplating making your own shims,keep this in mind.

As for me, before I take this thing off road next month, I have to correct this. Options I’m considering include making a steel sleeve to reduce the hole diameter so the head sits above the shim, or welding the holes shut in the shim and re drilling. I think I have some shock mount sleeves lying around that might work…

Jeff Writes:

You might be able to buy some new centering pins from a 4x shop. Install the new pins so that the thread is on the shim side, not the u-bolt-plate side. Trim the thread so that it’s long enough to pass through the shim and into the spring pad, but not so long that the centering pin thread is bottoming out in the spring pad. The centering pin nut can still be tightened down and assuming the nut is small enough to fit into the spring pad, I can’t see why that wouldn’t solve your problem. ABSOLUTELY do not drive it off road until you get it fixed. I’ve seen centering pins break and the axle typically does quite a bit of body damage and/or tire damage when the axle slides back off the spring.

I’ve run into this problem on countless lifts, especially in the rear where the pinion needs to be rotated up to fix drive line vibrations.

Don Writes:

Lynn, don’t try that idea with the brass or aluminum shims, steel should be okay. I broke 3 sets by bolting the shim to the spring pack. Check your local NAPA store and get the oldest guy there to look for spring center bolts, they carry some off brands that might have larger heads; or call Super Lift.

Below are images of the type of shim to use and installed on the spring pack.

Dana Model 30 Shim

5* shim bolted to spring pack using centering pin for Dana 30 front axle.

Follow up from Lynn:

I never did get the rear wheel spacers. Hasn’t been a problem without them.

* Regarding the hole that was too big in my shims, I sleeved the hole with piece of steel tubing, to reduce the diameter of the hole so that the head of the centering pin now sits on top of the shim. Steering is good now, squirrels are gone. I have the dimensions to make the shims if anyone needs them, Lynn

Further Discussion

Hello all, I have a question about this swap from a Dana 27 (I think that’s what’s on my ‘69 CJ-6) to a Dana 30. If I find a Dana 30 with disc brakes, what’s involved with the brake pump change and brake line change? Also, will my existing front drive shaft work? Or does that vary from year to year? Would a 1980 Dana 30 work?
Thanks for any help, Will

Lynn Writes:

Try Mile High Jeep Builders in Denver for spacer info (303) 629-0378, I hear about 3 bills for a set of good ones.

Jon Writes:

My understanding on the D30 swap is that a D30 from a’72-’75 CJ will bolt in directly without modification. Not sure, but I believe most, if not all of these came with drum brakes. It will be slightly wider than the D27. In talking with Mile-High Jeep, they identified this as something where initially most folks say, “well, that’s okay if the front track is a little wider than the back,” only to come back and correct the offset by adding some wheel spacers to the back axle.

The D30 from the 80 model will need to be modified to match your springs.

Lynn Writes:

69CJ, interesting insight on the early AMC 30s. I knew it was about an inch wider than the 27, but figured no problem, as many older 4×4s had a front axle wider than the rear. I never considered spacers in the back. I can see where it could be a problem if straddling a deep gully or ravine, where you’re running on the outside edges of the tires. Any other situation or reasoning for adding the spacers? Got a source for spacers?

Will Writes:

So spacers in the rear and some modification for the springs are my only real concerns? The gear ratio should be the same as the rear right? I guess if all else fails I could change that if I get the axle cheap enough. Thanks for the insight. Anybody modified an axle to accommodate springs?

Jon Writes:

RE: the gearing question, yes – your gears should match front and back.

RE: any other reason for adding the spacers to the rear?

My 69 is lifted 2.5″ with the Rancho kit. I also swapped out the stock shackles for ones that will provide 3/4 additional lift. So, in effect, I’ve installed a 3.25″ lift. Add that to 33″ M/T, and the little bugger is starting to take on a much more aggressive look.

I’ve gone up, but the 12.50 tire only brought me a little wider on this short wheel base rig, so I WELCOME the added width of the D30 up front. By adding the spacers to the rear, I’ll be going wider there as well which will only enhance stability with the higher center of gravity. Besides, having everything straight just seems to look better to me. Just my 2cents.