EarlyCJ5.com Technical Library

A technical library for classic Jeeps

Common Questions About Buick or Dauntless V6 Swaps into Jeeps


Question:

Question of the day, what did you use for motor mounts for your Buick V6 conversion? I know AA sells some, Novak seems to have dropped off the face of the earth. Now apparently from what I've heard/gathered Novak is back in business. Someone apparently has bought the business from the widow.

Any other good sources? Is there a way to adapt the CJ-5 Dauntless 225 mounts to fit a CJ-2A and a 231?

(18 Dec 03) Earlycj5.com note: Novak is indeed in business, Erik visits our forum from time to time

Answer:

On my 2A I used mounts from a V6 Commando, (same as a V6 CJ). Carefully cut them from the donor and weld right into the 2A. 225 and 231 (rear wheel drive) mounts interchange. Originally I had the stock manual steering with the Buick V6, when I added power steering I ran the steering shaft right through the lower portion of the mount with a support bearing on the rear flange of the motor mount. I'm also using 225 exhaust manifolds, drivers side exits in the front. Fenderwell exit headers are the easy way to do the exhaust but after a few years of loud dual exhaust exiting in front of the rear tires I built a custom single exhaust. Large diameter (for a V6) pipes, turbo muffler mounted cross-wise behind the rear axle, exiting out the right rear.

Not having done the original 231 swap in my M38A1 and never having seen another I don't know where my engine mounts came from. Knowing how much of a DIYer the PO was though I'd be surprised if these were purchased. There are two bolts in each side of the block that mount the rubber buffered motor mounts, they've each got two vertical ears about 3" apart with a bolt hole in each. The frame mounts themselves are about 1/4" thick steel plate about 3" wide mounted horizontally out from the frame with a 3" long steel tube welded to the end so that a bolt passes through a motor mount ear, the tube, then the other ear. Under the horizontal piece is a 1/4" plate welded vertically to the frame and bottom of the horizontal piece, extending and tapering down to the tube.

The driver's side has a bit of the horizontal piece cut away for the steering shaft to pass over.

My exhaust manifolds are normal 231, both exit to the rear without any space issues in the engine compartment. Both pipes pass under the frame behind the front fenders, the mufflers are outside the frame rails and the exhaust exit is in front of the rear wheels. I *hate* this. The one time I took it off-roading I worried continually about ripping off one of the mufflers on the rocks, and every time I got in or out with the engine running I had to step through the exhaust stream (hot and makes you smell like exhaust).

Its a low priority, but I'll probably look into doing something like Bill mentions with his exhaust. It'd sure be nice not to have to walk through the exhaust, and I don't like having the muffler (heat) right under my gas tank (heat+gasoline) which is right under my bottom (heat+gasoline=NervousMerl). Merl Howell [WT]

Question:

Does anyone know if a stock CJ-5 225 pilot bushing is the correct size for a T90 shaft? Haven't been able to find measurements for the 225 bushing I.D. Reason for asking is the difference between a $3 bushing I can get at my local 4wd shop and a $25 AA bushing.

Answer:

The 225 uses a standard GM pilot bushing, 0.590". The T90 shaft is 0.62? inch. You can buy the AA bushing or buy the $3 bushing and drill it to size. My brother used a standard 5/8 (0.625 inch) bit and got a pretty good fit. Your money and time, take your pick.

Mine measured 0.626 inch. I took the $3 bushing and had a machine shop ream it out for $5. I did have to drive 45 miles to find a machine shop that would do the work.

Question:

Firewall Clearance, especially conversions on Early CJ-5s and M38A1s.

- How close is your engine/bell-housing to your fire wall/floorpan?

- Do you have a forward facing oil filter or downward facing?

If downward, do you have any problems with it hitting the front diff? If forward, how close is it to your radiator?

The reason I ask is...I made a lot of progress on my '53 M38A1 w/V6 this weekend, finally got the old rusty tub off. It seems that when this conversion was done by the previous owner he did shift the drive train to the right by an inch or so, but *did not* shift it forward. The result is that he had to pound in the firewall an inch or so to allow clearance for the two heads, and it looks like the bell housing was probably riding against the firewall. Not only that, but the frame-to-TC clutch pivot arm angles from the frame *back* to where it mounts on the TC. It looks like I should be able to reposition the whole assembly forward by 1 inch by drilling new TC crossmember mounting holes in the frame and doing a slight modification to the engine mounts that were welded to the frame. My only concerns with this are: - Will one inch forward *really* be enough to avoid bending up my firewall? I'm thinking yes, but I don't know for sure. - The previous owner told me that he had to change the oil filter mount (right front of the engine) from the downward facing kind to the forward facing kind because of it hitting the diff at full suspension compression. This, however, puts the end of the oil filter about 1 1/2 inches from the lower radiator outlet. Since the filter doesn't stick straight out towards the front (it's angled about 30 to the passenger side) I *think* this will be OK. - I may have to shorten the clutch fork. With the bell housing an inch further forward it looks like its going to rest against the brake master cylinder.

I'm getting most of this information from a Novak engine conversion manual that someone faxed me last year, (that's where I'm getting the "move the engine forward 1 to 1 1/4 inches" information) and it doesn't say anything about having to change the oil filter for the V6 conversion.

I don't really mind bending up my firewall, but if I had my druthers I wouldn't have the bellhousing or engine actually touching the firewall and floorpan. Plus, regaining *any* rear driveshaft length would help given that foot long Rancho OD I've got on the back of the transfer case.

Answers:

I have a CJ-2A that I bought with a 198 Buick V6 conversion. No problem with firewall cleareance but has a remote oil filter adapter and is still real close to front axle pumpkin. With the filter on another location it shouldn't be no problem

Answer 2:

On my '70 CJ-5, factory V6, the passengers side valve cover has about 1 1/8 inches off clearance between it and the firewall. The front edge of the bell-housing is about 1/2 inch forward of the firewall. The engine is offset about 1/2 inch to the drivers side. The oil filter is parallel to the ground, sticks out the side angled front at about 30 but not angled down at all. The radiator hose almost touches it.

Even on my 2A I have 1/2 inch of firewall clearance. On this one when I swapped the Jeep 225 for a Buick car 231 OF I retained the the 225 oil filter mount. If I remember right the car oil filter aimed front and down. May have been OK with one of those mini filters but I had the parts to do it right. Years ago I bought a '61 CJ5 cheap with a bad engine knock, the guy had hit a good bump and put the front axle into the oil filter of the swapped in V6 and then ran it for a while before noticing he didn't have any oil pressure. Make sure you have clearance for the entire range of your suspension.

Links to other swap resouces

Derek Redmond's Page on a Dauntless V6 into a CJ-3B swap page. Good for nearly every Willys conversion application there is. Gives you a good idea of what your getting into and what parts need replaced etc.