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Jeep Universal Series Model Tub Rotisserie

by tommy b

This article describes the rotisserie that I built to hold the tub of my 1956 CJ5. For a larger version of any image in this article, click on the image, it will open in a new window; clicking on the image in the new window will close it again.

Searching on the web I found several designs of rotisseries. Although they each had some good points; none of them was exactly what I was looking for. So, using some ideas from several of them, I decided to design and build my own.

A few notes to begin with

The letters in Parentheses (X) refer to the individual pieces and are explained in the bill of material, Table 1, at the end of this article.

My tub, without the tailgate and with a section of the driver's side floor missing, weighed a little less than 250 pounds. The front weighed about 145 pounds and the rear weighed about 95 pounds. I used 300 pounds as a design weight for the front and 300 pounds for the rear to make sure that the front and rear support bars (K) & (J) did not deflect under load.

The cost for the rotisserie material was just under $150. I purchased all new steel at a steel supply house. You can probably beat this price if you have access to a scrapyard that carries structural steel.

This design should work for other Jeep Universal models, by changing the length of the cross beam (M) and the front and rear support bars (K) & (J).

Making the crossbeam in one piece (105" long) resulted in difficulty in assembly. Using an engine hoist to lift the body, the legs of the hoist interfered the cross beam and I had to slide the whole 105" through one of the receivers (C). I recommend making the crossbeam in 2 pieces and joining them with a sleeve (U) at the center. This would also make assembly and storage (or shipping) of the crossbeam easier.

I used 2" square tube with a .109" wall thickness (12 gauge) for the sleeves (I) and crossbeam receiver (C). This provided a close fit between the sleeves and the 1 ¾" square tubing that slipped inside them. Square tubing comes with a weld bead on the inside, along the length of the tube. You can see this bead in figure 5. If the bead is down the center of one of the sides, as it was on mine, it will have to be filed flat to allow the smaller tube to slide inside easily. I just clamped the piece in a vise and used a 12" coarse file to flatten the weld, filing from both sides and inserting a piece of 1 ¾" tubing until it slipped through easily. If the weld is at an inside corner, then the corner radius of the inside tube should clear the weld and allow the tubes to telescope easily.

I assumed the balance point of the tub to be 8" above the floor where the driver's feet are. This seems to be very close to the ideal balance point. By making the pivot bars (H) movable inside their sleeves (I), this dimension can be adjusted to achieve good balance. See Figure 11.

Bolt Holes

Holes drilled in either square tubes or angle pieces for bolts to pass through are 1/16" larger in diameter than the bolt, i.e. 3/8" hole for a 5/16" bolt, 7/16" hole for a 3/8" bolt, and 1/2" hole for a 7/16" bolt. Holes should be drilled on the centerline of the square tube, or 1" up for 2" tube (B) and 7/8" up for 1 3/4" tube (J) & (K). This then determines the location of the holes in the angle pieces (D) & (R) that bolt to these tubes. Also, the holes are drilled 1" in from each end of the angle piece. For the base arm mount angle (D) the two 1/2" holes are drilled in the 3" leg, 1 3/16" up from the heel (outside corner) and 1" in from each end, (6" between holes). For the support bar mount (R), the holes are drilled 1 1/16" from the heel up the 3" leg and 1" in from the ends (4" between holes).

Parts

Figure 1 shows the parts cut and ready for assembly. Not shown are the 2" sch. 40 pipe rotators (G), as they weren't cut yet when the picture was taken. The total weight of the parts for this rotisserie is about 125 pounds.

Figure 1: parts cut and ready for assembly.

Sub assemblies

Figure 2 shows some of the sub assemblies. The wheel assemblies, (N, O, & T) slide into the base arms (B) and are held in place with 2 lock bolts each. I built the L shaped leg mounts (P & S) for when the rotisserie sits loaded for a long period of time. By replacing the wheel assemblies with the leg mounts flat spots on the wheels would be avoided. However, since I'm constantly moving the rotisserie from place to place, e.g. inside the garage to where the light's better, outside the garage for sandblasting, etc., I don't think these leg assemblies are necessary.

Figure 2: Some of the sub assemblies

Stanchion Subassembly

Probably the most critical subassembly to get squared up is the stanchion. See Figure 2, above. Cut a saddle about ¼" deep in the top end of the stanchion tube (A) for the rotator sleeve (E) to rest in. This provides a good area for welding the two parts together. Extend the sleeve ½" past the side of the stanchion tube that will be facing the jeep. Make sure the sleeve is perpendicular to the tube and weld the two parts together all around. Place the base arm mount angle (D) on the cross beam receiver (C) with the edge of the 2" leg even with the end of the receiver tube. Tack weld the two pieces together. Do not weld the back side (heel) of the angle to the tube. Place the stanchion tube (A) on the cross tube receiver (C) against the back of the angle (D). Tack weld the three pieces together. Square everything up and weld all surfaces. See Figure 6, below.

Complete Assembly

Figure 3: The completed assembly before painting. For paint, I used some rattle cans of Ford engine paint that I had on hand.

Lock Bolts

Any place where one part slides into another, e.g. the rotator (G) inside its sleeve (E), the crossbeam (M), inside its receiver (C), etc. I used 3/8"-16 UNC x 1" long lock bolts to hold the parts in position. See Figures 4 & 5. To give the bolts something to thread into, I welded nuts to the surface. I first drilled a 5/16" diameter hole through one wall of the sleeve. Using a wood block clamped to the sleeve to hold the tap at 90 degrees, figure 4. I tapped the hole for 3/8"-16 threads. I then took a junk bolt with a nut threaded on it and threaded it into the hole to keep weld spatter from getting on the threads. I ran the nut down until it LOOSELY touched the sleeve and welded it to the sleeve, see figure 5. Then I took the bolt out and ran a tap through the hole to align the threads in the sleeve with those in the nut.

Hint: Grind a bevel on the tip of the lock bolts. This will ensure that the threads won't mushroom after repeated tightening, preventing them from being removed, if desired.

Figure 4: Wood block used to hold tap at 90.

Figure 5: Nut welded to sleeve.

Base Arm to Stanchion Alignment

Figures 6 & 7 show how the base arm assemblies are bolted to the stanchion assemblies. With the base arm assemblies loosely bolted to the stanchion assemblies, see figure 6. I slipped a spare piece of 1 ¾" square tube through the crossbeam receivers (C) and butted them together, tightening the lock bolts, figure 7. I inserted a piece of 2" pipe into the rotator sleeves (E) to align them and locked them. With the top and bottom aligned and locked, I tightened the four 7/16" x 3" base arm to stanchion bolts, figure 6.

Figure 6: Stanchion assemblies loosely bolted in place.

Figure 7: Tightening lock bolts.

Front Support Bar to Tub Attachment

Figure 8 shows how the front support bar attaches to the tub, using the fender mount holes. I mounted this bar with the bottom of the bar even with the bottom of the tub. This resulted in interference between the support bar and the flanges around the holes in the firewall bottom around the cutouts. I had to put spacers between the tub and the support bar vertical arms (L) to clear these flanges. I would recommend lowering the support bar about 2" so the bottom of the firewall is just above the horizontal part of the support bar assembly. Then you will not need the spacers. You will have to lengthen part (L) to about 14" to catch the third fender mount hole as shown in Figure 8.

Figure 8: Part "L" which is suggested to be lengthened to catch the third fender mount hole.

Rear Support Bar to Tub Attachment

Figure 9 shows how the rear support bar (J) attaches to the tub, using the tailgate hinge mount holes.

Figure 9: Rear support bar attached to tub.

Bolting the support bars to the pivot bar assemblies allows the use of different types of support bars to hold the tub differently. e.g. by the floor mount points.

Clearance

I made the stanchion vertical tubes (A) 39" long, as I wasn't sure where the balance point was going to be. When I rotate the tub until the top corner of the windshield mount (the furthest point from the axis of rotation) is down, I have 5 1/2" of clearance between it and the cross tube (M), see figure 10. You could shorten the stanchion somewhat, but I wouldn't make it less than 36".

Figure 10: Clearance between windshield mount and cross tube (M).

Rotation Details

Figure 11 shows the details of the rotating assembly. Although not shown, the lock ring (F) has one lock bolt to hold it in place. I put some grease on the rotator (G) where it fits inside the sleeve (E) to make it easier to turn the assembly. I mounted a small magnet to the stanchion on each end to hold the lock bolt wrench and keep from misplacing it. It works o.k. but most of the time I just leave the wrench on a rotator sleeve lock bolt since these are the ones I operate the most.

Figure 11: Detailing the rotating assembly.

I hope that with this writeup and pictures, there is enough information for you to build your own rotisserie, but if you have any questions pertaining to this project, feel free to P.M. me and I'll do my best to answer them. Happy jeeping.

tommy b

Table 1: Early CJ-5 Rotisserie Parts
Part Quantity Size Material Description
A 2 3" x 1 1/2" x .120" x 39" RECT. TUBE STANCHION
B 2 2" x 2" x .083" x 40" SQ. TUBE BASE ARM
C 2 2" x 2" x .109" x 12" SQ. TUBE CROSS BEAM RECEIVER
D 2 3" x 2" x 3/16" x 8" ANGLE BASE ARM MOUNT
E 2 2 1/2" DIA. SCH.40 x 5" PIPE ROTATOR SLEEVE
F 2 2 1/2" DIA. SCH.40 x 1 1/2" PIPE ROTATOR LOCK RING
G 2 2" DIA. SCH.40 x 9" PIPE ROTATOR
H 2 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083" x 18" SQ. TUBE PIVOT BAR
I 2 2" x 2" x .109" x 6" SQ. TUBE PIVOT BAR SLEEVE
J 1 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083" x 34" SQ. TUBE REAR SUPPORT BAR
K 1 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083" x 55 1/2" SQ. TUBE FRONT SUPPORT BAR
L 2 2" x 2" x 1/8" x 11 1/2" ANGLE FRT. SUP. BAR VERT ARM
M 1 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083 x 105" SQ. TUBE CROSS BEAM
N 4 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083" x 8" SQ. TUBE WHL. ASSY. MOUNT
O 4 4" SWIVEL WITH BRAKE CASTER NORTHERN TOOL #1899021
P 4 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083" x 2 5/16" SQ. TUBE STAND LEG
R 2 3" x 2" x 3/16" x 6" ANGLE SUPPORT BAR MOUNT
S 4 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x .083" x 6" SQ. TUBE LEG MOUNT
T 4 4" x 3 5/8" x .120 PLATE CASTER MOUNTING PLATE
U 1 2" x 2" x .109" x 12" SQ. TUBE CROSS BEAM CONNECTOR

4 7/16"-14 UNC x 3" BOLT STANCHION/BASE ARM

4 7/16"-14 UNC x 3" BOLT PIVOT BAR/FRT. & REAR SUP. BAR

8 7/16"UNC NUT

8 7/16" LOCK WASHER

4 3/8"-16 UNC x 2 1/2" BOLT REAR SUPPORT BAR/ TUB

20 3/8"-16 UNC x 1" BOLT LOCKING BOLTS

24 3/8"-16 UNC NUT

6 3/8" FLAT WASHER

6 3/8" LOCK WASHER

4 5/16"UNC x 1" BOLT FRT. SUP. BAR/TUB

4 5/16" LOCK WASHER