welding

[madmax79]

Hi, everyone. I've really wanted to learn how to weld for a long time and now it would be really beneficial to the CJ if I could weld. One of the guys I work with said I should get a stick welder and just go at it. He says it is not too hard to teach yourself with a little trial and error. Most of what I would need to do is sheetmetal and small body holes.

What do you guys think? Should I try it? Any tips? Any suggestions on equipment?

[mb82]

MIG... to me thats the easiest. it is easy to work with sheet metal with a mig. learn to weld it is one of those things that helps with owning a jeep.

[Boyink]

I've only done MIG, but it's been pretty easy to learn.

[Mcruff]

Sheetmetal, forget the stick and go with mig, a stick welder is hard to weld sheetmetal, even if your really good. I have never been able to make arc welding look good but I can do it with a mig or tig welding.

[Old Bill]

IMHO, a good mig would be better for the sheet metal work. Get one that handles gas, and you'll be able to do a lot more with it. A stick welder would be great if you're doing a lot of chassis work, but might be a bit overkill for the thinner stuff. It also seems that many think that it's easier to get proficient with the MIG than the stick. HTH

[lynn]

A small MIG set up will do what you are looking for, and is available for 110 V circuits. Get one with a kit to use gas shielding, you'll get better looking welds, and it will work better than self-shielding wire when welding sheet metal.

[Mudweiserjeep]

What is th minimum size mig welder needed for doing roll cages and bumpers?

[lynn]

Although it can be done with the smaller 110V units, it would be best to get one that runs on 220. Hobart, Lincoln and Miller etc have good MIG units in the 175-180 series that will do the heavier work with good penetration.

TSC usually has a Hobart Handler 175 with cart, hood and gloves for ~$650...

[madmax79]

Thanks everyone. I might start out with one of the 110V MIGS for cost reasons. With an old Jeep there is never much in the "available funds" category.

[Jeepenstein]

Also pick up a book.. I just picked one up from barnes and noble, the monster garage version of "How to weld Damn near anything" which despite being a marketing tool is pretty good and written for normal people. I have been welding a while and it has taught me a bunch (mostly how stoopid I am)..


BUBBA

[MNTrailboss]

[I might start out with one of the 110V MIGS for cost reasons.]

If cost were the issue, I'd then go for a used 220v unit. You may quickly "run out of amps" with the 110 version if you get into heavy material for rockers, bumpers, etc. I bought a used 220 v hobart 75 which goes through 3/8 thick rather well -- with gas.

If you are absolutely sure you will be under 1/4 inch then a new 110 unit may be ok. I'm not sure I've seen a 110 unit with gas, but I suppose they make them.

[Boyink]

If you are absolutely sure you will be under 1/4 inch then a new 110 unit may be ok. I'm not sure I've seen a 110 unit with gas, but I suppose they make them.

Yep - I have the Lincoln Weld Pak here, with the bottle setup. Been happy with it so far.

The costs of setting up the garage with 220 would have put the welder out of reach, so it was a compromise. Didn't figure I'd need to weld more than the 1/4" anytime soon.

[Mcruff]

If you think about it a roll cage has way less than a 1/4" wall thickness so you should be able to weld virtually anything on a rollcage. Most bumpers don't have anything over 1/4" thick material, about the only thing on a jeep thicker than what a 110 unit can weld is steering mounts and a few things like that.

[timgr]

Miller is the premier brand. My brother has one of these: http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_135/
Bought it to do body work on his TR3. I think he bought the Miller because he likes quality tools... It's the least expensive Miller - I've read that Hobart is the same manufacturer with a less expensive gun.

[Warloch]

Been welding since the 70's and am now teaching my boys. MIG is the way to go - most stick burns through so I used gas on body metal till I got my MillerMatic 175. Liked it better than the others as it has infinite adjustments for voltage and speed. If you can swing the 220 do it. You may never max the weld thickness, but the duty cycle will get you on big projects.

I am still working on teaching my arm to NOT move down while welding... Somthing about old dogs :D

[manden68]

Messed around with MIG and my welds are only as good as my prowess with a grinder and some paint. Made my front bumper with a Lincoln 135 weld-Pac. You can get them at Lowe’s for $435. Or on eBay for under $350 for a used one http://search.ebay.com/lincoln-electric-motor_Business-Industrial_W0QQcatrefZC6QQfposZ33317QQfromZR7QQfro mZR9QQfrppZ50QQsacatZ12576QQsaslopZ1QQsatitleZlinc olnQ20electricQ20Q2dmotor

[zed]

a book i found is "welder's handbook" by richard finch isbn is 1-55788-264-9

about $18 at lowes but have seen many other places since then. actually pretty decent and up to date.

i'm still a crappy welder so far but that's my fault not the book's :D

[66cj5]

check out the scratch and dent section at your local welding supply. also don't rule out used machines. would get a power supply (then you can stick or tig/mig) w/300 amp capticity on 220v. or go 110v and upgrade as your skills improve. also you might check out community college for welding classes.

[campwillys]

I bought a campbell Hausfeld 105 or whatever its called for 150.00 delivered off ebay a couple years ago.It was a reconditioned unit I believe. No problems with it so far.It came with the regulator for gas but I have only used tthe fluxwire with it and it does the job nicely as long as ubder 1/4 inch.

[madmax79]

I tried to find a community college or tech school with welding classes and the closest one is an hour away AND the only evening class starts 30 minutes after I get off work. I would need diplomatic immunity from speeding or a miracle from my boss to be able to take a class.

[Hawkes]

I'm new to welding but do okay with just an AC stick. My brother in law had no where to use it, so it's semi-permanently mine. ;) I love it for anything bigger than sheet metal. My neighbor has a 110 flux core mig and although you can weld sheet metal I've never seen a nice looking weld come from it. Lots of splatter and boogers. Just an observation from watching tv, the guys on american chopper and such shows make welding with mig and gas look like childs play. Sounds like a good combination.

Paul

[speedbuggy]

I use a 110v Campbell Housefield at home and I like it. I think it's getting a bad rap here. Yes, every so often you'll booger a weld if the surface isn't spotless, but nothing a grinder and paint won't cure. I don't think there is anything on a jeep that I couldn't weld with it.

I would like the bottle, but it hasn't been that big of an inconvenience. My .02

[campwillys]

YA dont need to go to welding school get a book. Its easy all you have to worry about is keep a small arc as close to it as you can without it sticking. Listen for the sound of scramling eggs on the stove if it sounds like that you have settings right. get some metal the size of what you will be welding and practice. Usually it tells you on the welder what your settings should be for the thickness you will be welding.If your beads are to thick lower the wirespeed or turn up the heat setting alot hgas to do with how fast your travel is. Do a search on the web for how to mig weld you will find all you need to know then the rest is just practice. I suggest you only weld on a flat surface at first as welding uphill takes a little practice to get the bead to travel up.I hope ya made some sense out this as I am not good at explaining this particular issue

[67cj5]

I am a aviation certified welder certified in GTAW (tig) MIG , ARC and Oxyfuel, and silver brazing. I am certified to weld anything from steel to inconel,hasteloy, titanium and most other rere metals used in aviation. I just wanted you to know my background and competance level before reading my advice. I agree with most of the infornmation posted here. Dont be discouraged from the small 110 units if you are not doing major structural repairs, and then you can still use one if used properly. they have a smaller duty cycle so it means resting them more. Of course the bigger cycle 220 units will work easier on a broader range, but for sheetmetal the 110 will do fine. I recommend getting a unit that has all the equiptment to use a sheilding gas , it helps out on the bigger stuff, where flux core wire doesnt get the same advantages.Look at your needs and make a decision based on what most of your welding wil be. I use a 220 arc welder for everything from exhaust pipe to frame repairs. But the mig is easier to use for the novice on smaller gauge stuff.Please dont anyone think I am a know it all or trying to condemn anyone, or their welding sjkills as I mentioned the novice welder earlier.I know several self taught welders that are great at it. It just takes practice. I hope this infornmatio helps.

[scott milliner]

Miller is the premier brand. My brother has one of these: http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_135/
Bought it to do body work on his TR3. I think he bought the Miller because he likes quality tools... It's the least expensive Miller - I've read that Hobart is the same manufacturer with a less expensive gun.I have that same welder with the cover gas. I really like it. It's 2002 model. I'm glad I bought it.

[scott milliner]

I also bought this Small Running Gear/Cylinder Rack.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_135/accessories.php

The top one.

[screwcity]

even if you are using a smaller welder, and you feel like you might not get the greatest penetration on something over 1/4 inch. Bevel the edges so that you can penetrate a little further, and lay a few passes on it.

Rio

[jchisum]

I'm fortunate since my father in law keeps his millermatic 135 in my garage so I have that and my miller thunderbolt ac/dc at my disposal. my experience is if I have to do something structural like frame welding, roll cage, etc I use the stick and get good solid welds that I don't worry about. if it's sheet metal or thinner stuff I use the mig with great result. I do find the mig with solid core and gas is a major step better than any of the flux core but I don't want to get into a p'ing contest over it... My buddy kept a hobart 210 with a bottle in my garage for a couple months and I'd use that for the same structural stuff I use the stick for and not worry about it but it's an expensive welder...

[Dan Gillam]

I have a Hobart Mig with gas, a little tip for welding up holes. I have a piece of Brass 1/4 thick that I put behind behind the hole then weld it up, the weld will not stick to the brass. when done remove the brass block and grind it down, works good. Dan

[spud]

Thanks everyone. I might start out with one of the 110V MIGS for cost reasons. With an old Jeep there is never much in the "available funds" category.

Don't discount a rental unit if you don't have much to do. It's great to own alot of tools but sometimes it's good to rent when you don't have the funds to buy.

[speedbuggy]

I have a Hobart Mig with gas, a little tip for welding up holes. I have a piece of Brass 1/4 thick that I put behind behind the hole then weld it up, the weld will not stick to the brass. when done remove the brass block and grind it down, works good. Dan
Nice tip Dan. I'll use it!

[70CJ5]

Dan,
I use a peice of Alum. behind the hole it pulls the heat out to help keep warping down and the weld does not stick to it either. The peice I use is about 1/2"tk because that is what I have laying around.